Is it possible to adjust the body height.I?m after 1/2 to 1 inch increase in height.
C4 rear end adjustment
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If you are running the composite transverse leaf spring like I do, you can simply use shorter bolt on the ends of the spring or add spacers between the nut and the bottom end of the spring. You can only raise it up so far before interference. If that's not enough, then you would need to find a stiffer spring. They had several different ones on the C4's but I have no idea which one would be best. The other thing is to shed a little weight in the rear. I don't have spare, and my battery is not in the trunk. I don't fill my 22-gallon tank either. My car is pretty stripped down at 3400lbs, but it rides and drives perfect with plenty of suspension travel. Which C4 conversion frame do you have? On the front you would need to maybe add spacers to the ends of the spring, which is more difficult. Beautiful car btw.
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IMG_1634.jpgLast edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 08-12-2022, 06:16 AM. -
Thanks for your help .I have raised the front on the coilovers which has made the car sit level.I don’t want to upset the geometry .I thought of using 20 inch wheels instead of 18 .Comment
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That's going to take a coil over adjustment (probably loosening the ring below the spring so that it relaxes the spring compression.
If you get it all the way loose (springs move around by hand), then you may need to go with the next longer spring length.1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.Comment
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I chose not to use coil overs for several reasons, and I kept the weight of my car to near the same as a 96 Corvette running the stock size 275/40-17 tires with 9.5 wide wheels front and rear. It drives perfect like a giant Corvette and sticks to the road like you wouldn't believe.
1955 Chevy autocross - YouTubeLast edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 08-12-2022, 04:49 PM.Comment
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It looks like you could use a thicker rubber bushing between the end of the spring and the spindle, which would raise it an inch for sure. Bolt looks plenty long too. Otherwise, you need a stiffer spring.Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 08-12-2022, 05:24 PM.Comment
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Oh, now i see. You still have the stock batwing leaf spring set up on the rear.
On my Nomad build, I eliminated that batwing in favor of coil overs.
Not sure how to advise you on height adjustments with your setup.
Possibly swap out the fixed length link shafts at the end of each leaf spring? Maybe a longer one would raise the ride height? Thinking out loud here...no experience with it though.1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.Comment
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To lower the rear of the car, remove the cotter pin and tighten the large nuts at the ends of the spring. Replace the cotter pins of course afterwards.
To raise the rear of the car, remove the cotter pin and loosen the large nuts at the ends of the spring. You have a lot of room to further raise the rear, and one can even go to a longer bolt as long as the spring is strong enough to further lift the car.
For my curiousity. Would you check the 2-letter code stamped into the spring and let me know which one you have?Last edited by BamaNomad; 08-15-2022, 08:27 AM.Comment
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Oh, now i see. You still have the stock batwing leaf spring set up on the rear.
On my Nomad build, I eliminated that batwing in favor of coil overs.
Not sure how to advise you on height adjustments with your setup.
Possibly swap out the fixed length link shafts at the end of each leaf spring? Maybe a longer one would raise the ride height? Thinking out loud here...no experience with it though.
PS. I went with the original rear suspension as well for two reasons: 1) to retain stock GM components as much as possible for future replacement purposes, and 2) I do not plan to drag race my Nomad, and one additional reason: I dislike coil over suspensions!Comment
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Actually, to raise the car you need to shorten the bolts that the end of the spring that is suspended from the spindle, which applies more pressure to the center mount of the spring mounted below the diff, which raises the car. To lower the car, you use longer bolts on the ends of the spring. Opposite of what it appears to look like. Same spring setup on the C3. C5, C6, and C7 Corvettes.Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 08-15-2022, 09:33 AM.Comment
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Sorry for the late reply and thanks for your help .The car is lower on one side about 1inch .FDFAFFC4-6AE0-4DB6-9A35-61345C39117A.jpegComment
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Are you sure the problem is in the rear? Does the front sit level?
I noticed you're not using a dropped toe adjuster. Did you notch the frame to clear the stock one? The frame in that area is already weak and notching it could have made the frame low at the right rear corner.
With the car sitting on level ground, measure the front end to see if it's level. If it's not, it could still be a rearend problem. Put a floor jack under the differential and raise the rear off the floor to see if the front end sits level then. If it doesn't, adjust the front coilovers. If it does, the problem is in the rear.
Measure from the spring straight up to the end of the batwing on both sides. That measurement should be the same if the car is level. Are both spring bolts adjusted the same? Tightening the nut (shortening the bolt) will raise the car, and loosening it will lower it.
Car looks great btw.56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
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Thanks for the advice .Inreplaced the tyres on the rear with 265x45 18 which gave me an extra 1inch of clearance.The rear was too low with a 35 profile .The front is level.The measurement at the batwing is 92 mm and 95 mm.The spring bolts are the same on bothe ends .The only thing I can see that is different is position of the camber adjustment.
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