Hooker LS Longtube Headers for Chevynut's C4 frame.

[WagonCrazy]

Learn by doing...(translation...learn from your mistakes, and advise others how to avoid them).

Hooker 2293's are nice long tube steel headers that can be bought at Summitracing.com fairly cheap. These are made for the "Unisteer" rack and pinion setup that bolts to a STOCK tri-5 frame.
As such, they are made with as "spread out tubing" between Cyl 1 and 3.
So not knowing that, I figured I'd order them and use them with my Chevynut C4 frame.
They fit, but the configuration of the #1 tube gets IN THE WAY of where your steering shaft needs to go as it points to the C4 rack.
To fix mine, I just notched and re-welded that up to allow the shaft to go past the #1 header, but its' not the right way to do things on a $100K Nomad build. I may come back later and swap for different headers, but for now...they will work.
Some pics:

IMG_1717.jpg IMG_1718.jpg

So I suggest using Hookers 2292 long length headers instead. All 4 of the tubes (both drivers and passenger sides) angle back consistently, and the #1 tube should by tighter against the block, thus staying out of the way of the steering shaft/C4 rack geometry needed.

hok-2292-1hkr_w_ml.jpg

[Rick_L]

Looks to me like you wouldn't need totally different headers - just a properly rerouted #1 tube to replace the notch.

[chevynut]

Paul, can you lower the steering shaft and use a longer column like I did or extend your column shaft? Seems like you should have had plenty of room for the steering shaft. Here's a pic of that setup when it was here in my shop.

[Fladiver64]

Thanks for the clarification, seems counter intuitive to not order the headers "designed" for rack and pinion steering, but your photos clearly indicate the problems. I will order the 2292 and see how the routing works on my frame.

[WagonCrazy]

Post pics when you get them installed Mike. Would be good to confirm the 2292s are better than 2293s.

Rick,
I could reconfigure the 2293 tube #1 and 3, because both look wrong in there. I just dont have easy access to a tube bender.

[Rick_L]

Use premade mandrel bends.

[WagonCrazy]

Yes, that would be the easy part. The more difficult aspect is the lower cut location, where it needs to weld to the existing tube. That #3 lower tube is sandwiched up against the #1 tube down low, and there would be a portion that i cant get a weld to. Instant leak and it would look like a hack job.

[chevynut]

Thanks for the clarification, seems counter intuitive to not order the headers "designed" for rack and pinion steering,

Fladiver, keep in mind that the Unisteer rack and pinion bolts to the REAR of the stock tri5 crossmember and sits where the drag link normally would sit. So the #1 tube isn't involved. The C4 rack is in FRONT of the crossmember, and the steering shaft has to clear the exhaust and engine mount. I usually tell guys to work out their exhaust first while taking into account the steering shaft, then select a column length that works last. That's based on experience doing my own. In retrospect I wish I'd used Doug's headers instead of my Earle Williams headers. I think they work better with this setup and the #7 tube doesn't make that weird bend. I've recommended them to other guys with BBCs.

[chevynut]

By the way, this issue is no different regardless of whose C4 frame you use. The front-steer rack is nice for oilpan clearance, but it presents a minor issue with steering shaft routing and exhaust. Fortunately there are good solutions.

[Rick_L]

Wagon Crazy, isn't the access for welding the same if you have a tube bender or use pre-bent pieces?

Chevynut's comments are spot on, but help future users more than you.

The problem here is how to recover from a less than good situation.

[NickP]

If you find that the Hooker units don't quite work out, get with AME and review their headers. On a SBC, the #2 tube is positioned up and over creating a nice pocket and clearance for steering shaft. They are not inexpensive however but a very nice piece I understand the BBC units fair much the same in design.

[chevynut]

If you find that the Hooker units don't quite work out, get with AME and review their headers. On a SBC, the #2 tube is positioned up and over creating a nice pocket and clearance for steering shaft.

Nick, any idea if those AME headers will clear the top of the C4 k-member uprights? Seems like that could be an issue.

[NickP]

AME HEADERS

I'll post a pic or two tomorrow and maybe with some dimensions taken we can determine that.

[Bitchin'57]

With no flange of any kind on the collectors, how are you guys connecting your exhaust system to the collectors on the Hooker 2292 and 2293? Also, does the 2292 have O2 bung(s)? I can't find a pic where it shows it has them.

[Rick_L]

I can't speak to what the people at Hooker/Holley are thinking.

Maybe they are thinking that the location of the 02 bung is build dependent. But putting a bung on a coated header will locally destroy the coating. So if you need an O2 bung, you should order without coating.

There are several ways of connecting the head pipe to the collector. The old school way is a flange. Two newer school ways are V clamps and ball/socket clamps. Again coating might or would be an issue depending on the choice.

That's also one of the disadvantages of "off the shelf" headers as opposed to "semi custom". As an example, if you buy Earle Williams headers they will do bungs, flanges, etc. as you wish then send them out for coating.