1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

[MP&C]

Tonight in the shop we started the repair work on the front fenders for the 1947 Biederman Truck, seen here for reference:



The fenders are made using 16 gauge steel, so this may be a bit challenging when we get to blocking and wheeling patches for the fenders themselves. In the meantime (while still waiting for the new English wheel) let's get started on the inner fenders. The driver's side is the worst, with so much rotted away that we couldn't get accurate dimensions. The passenger side was in much better condition, but just shy of 70 years has taken its toll in adding some wavy distortion. So we'll remake both sides for a better match.



In order to get a more crisp bend on the 16 gauge steel, we used a tipping die in the Lennox to thin the metal at the line of the bend.







Bending in the Baileigh Magnetic Brake..









This detail shot shows how the thinning helps get a tighter bend..



Next, we needed a profile template for the rear radius, so the kick shrinker is used on a folded 19 gauge strip to add the radius..





A flat folded strip works better than an angle as if you shrink too far in this direction.....



......you can simply shrink the back half to reverse the effect without the need for changing to the stretching die..



Now with an accurate pattern, we can use the template on the new inner fender..





All trimmed...





With the new clamped to the old, we can see what the years of abuse has done..



One down, one to go..

[markm]

Neat old truck, never heard of them had to look it up. Appears they were in business 1920-1955.

[MP&C]

Today we got the second inner fender cut out, and took them both over for a test fit on the truck





The driver's side has a bolting plate in the middle of the frame for the steering box, so a relief notch was in order...



....as well as a bit of trimming for some clearance so that the paint won't be chipped off on the first test drive. The fabrication of these parts are done, and we should pick up the new Tommasini Wheeling Machine this coming weekend so we can get started on the fender patches..

[Rustaddict]

That's an impressive Vise Grip collection.

[MP&C]

Right around 100 pair in various forms..... Some purpose modified..

[MP&C]

John's getting ready for engine start ceremonies, so I guess I need to get off my duff here. To help out in that regard, next we'll fabricate the battery tray which I don't believe came with the truck when John got it. Here's the best we have for a pattern:



The hold down bracket for the prescribed Group 4 battery was with the truck, so we did some test fitting with the inner fender in place. It is a bit cramped for space, and John expressed concern of the availability of the Group 4 battery. Most local sources only carry the Group 1 in stock, which would also be a better fit.. So out with the old...



I did miss getting in the flat pictures, but here is the freshly folded and welded hold down bracket for the new battery size.





All trimmed and prepped for paint..





Comparing the new to the old...



Next will be the new battery tray.

[MP&C]

...and now for the battery tray, shown here cut to size and sides folded up...





For the end folds, the cut was started using a .035 cutoff wheel..



...and our trusty jig saw again...









Both ends complete, and frame holes have been piloted. Once checked to the hole spacing on the frame they can be drilled out for the 3/8 bolts.





Not factory original, but highly functional

[MP&C]

Need about one more day of curing on the epoxy primer, so today let's work on one of the Biederman fenders.. With Kyle on vacation I was shorthanded in the shop so John (the owner) came by and lent a hand.
First step was to remove the inner fender to see what we had to work with, added some 1/8 holes to use later for clecos in putting things back together..



The front of the fender bolts to the bumper filler panel, and the rear bolts to the running board. These have a difference in height of 13-3/4, so some blocks were screwed together to hold the fender in correct placement while we worked.



The inner is getting replaced so the spot welds were ground out for removal.



Once removed, we found more pitting and damage than we originally thought was there, so now lets make this new as well..





New piece is cut out and the Wheeling machine with the go kart slick is used to add the correct radius..





Then the flange bend line is marked/thinned using a tipping die in the Lennox like we did for the inner panels we made..



Then a tipping die and Skateboard wheel in the bead roller is used to make the initial fold on the marked line



and finished up with a Step die so we could use it as a backstop



The Erco 1447 with stretcher dies was used to stretch the flange in between tipping sessions. All done, matches the fender contour, we'll get the other side folded down next time..

[MP&C]

Here's a quick video to show how the radius for the filler panel was done..

With the flanges turned both directions....



Looking at the rear of the fender that was adjacent to the cab, we found flat areas that seem to indicate some rubbing was occurring. So while we were fabricating the filler panel, we added about 1/8" to shove the fender outward away from the cab.

[MP&C]

Some more work on the Biederman fenders..

A paper pattern was taken from the front of the fender to use as a guide to cut out the new piece from 16 ga cold rolled steel.





Some 19 gauge was hemmed flat and the Erco kick shrinker used to make profile templates for the horizontal and vertical directions..











The initial shape was added with a blocking hammer and shot bag, and finished on the Wheeling Machine..





Getting close....





This video shows the progress so far, as well as the rust on the leading edge we're repairing..

[MP&C]

Fender filler panel Number 2 is complete..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uvnvZTTEbs

Fender patch is getting closer...

[MP&C]

Final tweaks ..... clamped and marked with a scribe..





Trimming out the rust...



14 ga rated Milwaukee shear walks right through...



Trimming around the wired edging, careful not to nick it. The wrapped sheet metal is opened slightly using the door skin pliers..







With the sheet metal loosened from the wire, a slight twist will break the sheet metal at the score even not having cut through to the wire.





This outer section will become a template for the radius on the new patch.



Trimmed....



Fitted....



Saturday Kyle will get the old metal media blasted next to the weld seam so we can fire up the TIG welder..

[chevynut]

Nice work Robert. The underside still looks pretty pitted to me, is it all like that? Why is that patch so shiny? Looks almost like polished stainless.

[MP&C]

That's the finish that polished wheels on the wheeling machine leave on the panel. They are 16 gauge cold rolled steel..

[MP&C]

Time to break out the TIG welder. The new stumps for the upcoming metalshaping class work well as a welding table. The patch is securely clamped from inside to outside to get an accurate marking for tipping the fold around the wire.



Flexible Spline is used to carry the opening mark down the patch...



Tacked in with the TIG













Next we'll wrap the wire and trim the front edge to size.