I don't see much information on seat springs, so after doing a seat, I thought someone else might benefit from my experiences of cutting and bending the springs, laying the foam, and installing new covers.
While working on a car belonging to someone who is near the 300lb mark, it was decided to use new springs because it just seemed like the original bench seat springs were too soft for him. New spring assemblies are available just like the original, but after some experimenting, this is what I came up with. Actually, he is taller than most, but most people today are much heavier than the people these bench seats were designed for. This is what I started with.
The original seat bottom springs are 11ga, and the original seat backs are even smaller, so I used 9ga for the new seat bottoms and 11ga for the new seat backs. That feels a lot better, and that will also help to keep the new seats covers from stretching so quickly.
Some of the tools needed are wire benders, end former, clip pliers, bolt cutters, hog ring pliers, and large scissors. In addition to the wire ga, there are also two different wire sizes, and that is 1" and 2". There is also a 1" and 2" wire bender for the different size wire, and tri-5s use the 2".
I ordered two 100 foot rolls of 9ga zig zag spring for the bottom seat and used about 2/3rds of one roll.
Just like most jobs, it takes awhile to be able to make good bends, even with the proper tools. I found it to be a lot easier to get a good bend with one of the benders in the vice. Even then, the spring and both benders have to be held straight and level during the bend.
It really takes both hands on that one bender.
The original edge wire clips were three prong, but I decided to get these solid clips with a coating on the inside to help limit the squeak.
The car and this seat were original with only 112,000 miles, so I used an old seat to practice on and to make the springs that were used for this original seat. I wanted to be able to refer to original seat to get the same static shape. This shows some of the new springs loosely held in, next to the old smaller ga springs.
All finished up with the new springs on the original seat, and clips on loosely just to hold everything in place while being cleaned.
I noticed this seat and other one were both torn in the front corner near the same place.
The problem seems to be the sharp edges on this brace, so it was smoothed out.
A little protection will be added to cover that .
The cleaning process was electrolysis, it does a real nice job, and doesn't harm the spring steel. Then it was all covered with a clear epoxy, but the new clips are not on yet.
The new zinc plated clips went on first, then I used two straight sections of the original seat back springs to spread the weight out by tying the springs together.
Next is new burlap with the original wire woven through the burlap and hog ringed in place. It was used to keep the foam from pushing through the springs.
Next, is a layer of burlap with plenty of overhang so the foam can roll over the edge and glue down to the burlap---any hog ringing on the foam can show through the seat covers.
I tried the new preformed foam and didn't like it at all, even after numerous attempts.
My seat covers are from CARS INC, but Ciadella Interiors has a nice video on Facebook, and they recommend a layered two inches of foam. So the first layer is this 1/2 inch layer of dense material, and glued down. I didn't want the edges built up too much, so the layer doesn't go over the edge.
Then a 1" layer of high density foam was glued down.
More glue is applied to the overhang and it was rolled over the edge.
Finally a 1/2" layer of med density foam is glued and rolled over the edge.
The seat cover has been on and off several times while making adjustments, but I couldn't be more happy with it. The rear black flap is not glued yet.
While working on a car belonging to someone who is near the 300lb mark, it was decided to use new springs because it just seemed like the original bench seat springs were too soft for him. New spring assemblies are available just like the original, but after some experimenting, this is what I came up with. Actually, he is taller than most, but most people today are much heavier than the people these bench seats were designed for. This is what I started with.
The original seat bottom springs are 11ga, and the original seat backs are even smaller, so I used 9ga for the new seat bottoms and 11ga for the new seat backs. That feels a lot better, and that will also help to keep the new seats covers from stretching so quickly.
Some of the tools needed are wire benders, end former, clip pliers, bolt cutters, hog ring pliers, and large scissors. In addition to the wire ga, there are also two different wire sizes, and that is 1" and 2". There is also a 1" and 2" wire bender for the different size wire, and tri-5s use the 2".
I ordered two 100 foot rolls of 9ga zig zag spring for the bottom seat and used about 2/3rds of one roll.
Just like most jobs, it takes awhile to be able to make good bends, even with the proper tools. I found it to be a lot easier to get a good bend with one of the benders in the vice. Even then, the spring and both benders have to be held straight and level during the bend.
It really takes both hands on that one bender.
The original edge wire clips were three prong, but I decided to get these solid clips with a coating on the inside to help limit the squeak.
The car and this seat were original with only 112,000 miles, so I used an old seat to practice on and to make the springs that were used for this original seat. I wanted to be able to refer to original seat to get the same static shape. This shows some of the new springs loosely held in, next to the old smaller ga springs.
All finished up with the new springs on the original seat, and clips on loosely just to hold everything in place while being cleaned.
I noticed this seat and other one were both torn in the front corner near the same place.
The problem seems to be the sharp edges on this brace, so it was smoothed out.
A little protection will be added to cover that .
The cleaning process was electrolysis, it does a real nice job, and doesn't harm the spring steel. Then it was all covered with a clear epoxy, but the new clips are not on yet.
The new zinc plated clips went on first, then I used two straight sections of the original seat back springs to spread the weight out by tying the springs together.
Next is new burlap with the original wire woven through the burlap and hog ringed in place. It was used to keep the foam from pushing through the springs.
Next, is a layer of burlap with plenty of overhang so the foam can roll over the edge and glue down to the burlap---any hog ringing on the foam can show through the seat covers.
I tried the new preformed foam and didn't like it at all, even after numerous attempts.
My seat covers are from CARS INC, but Ciadella Interiors has a nice video on Facebook, and they recommend a layered two inches of foam. So the first layer is this 1/2 inch layer of dense material, and glued down. I didn't want the edges built up too much, so the layer doesn't go over the edge.
Then a 1" layer of high density foam was glued down.
More glue is applied to the overhang and it was rolled over the edge.
Finally a 1/2" layer of med density foam is glued and rolled over the edge.
The seat cover has been on and off several times while making adjustments, but I couldn't be more happy with it. The rear black flap is not glued yet.
Comment