Rebuilding a front bench seat

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  • LEE T
    Registered Member
    • Aug 2013
    • 418
    • 1806

    Rebuilding a front bench seat

    I don't see much information on seat springs, so after doing a seat, I thought someone else might benefit from my experiences of cutting and bending the springs, laying the foam, and installing new covers.

    While working on a car belonging to someone who is near the 300lb mark, it was decided to use new springs because it just seemed like the original bench seat springs were too soft for him. New spring assemblies are available just like the original, but after some experimenting, this is what I came up with. Actually, he is taller than most, but most people today are much heavier than the people these bench seats were designed for. This is what I started with.



    The original seat bottom springs are 11ga, and the original seat backs are even smaller, so I used 9ga for the new seat bottoms and 11ga for the new seat backs. That feels a lot better, and that will also help to keep the new seats covers from stretching so quickly.



    Some of the tools needed are wire benders, end former, clip pliers, bolt cutters, hog ring pliers, and large scissors. In addition to the wire ga, there are also two different wire sizes, and that is 1" and 2". There is also a 1" and 2" wire bender for the different size wire, and tri-5s use the 2".



    I ordered two 100 foot rolls of 9ga zig zag spring for the bottom seat and used about 2/3rds of one roll.



    Just like most jobs, it takes awhile to be able to make good bends, even with the proper tools. I found it to be a lot easier to get a good bend with one of the benders in the vice. Even then, the spring and both benders have to be held straight and level during the bend.



    It really takes both hands on that one bender.



    The original edge wire clips were three prong, but I decided to get these solid clips with a coating on the inside to help limit the squeak.



    The car and this seat were original with only 112,000 miles, so I used an old seat to practice on and to make the springs that were used for this original seat. I wanted to be able to refer to original seat to get the same static shape. This shows some of the new springs loosely held in, next to the old smaller ga springs.



    All finished up with the new springs on the original seat, and clips on loosely just to hold everything in place while being cleaned.



    I noticed this seat and other one were both torn in the front corner near the same place.



    The problem seems to be the sharp edges on this brace, so it was smoothed out.



    A little protection will be added to cover that .



    The cleaning process was electrolysis, it does a real nice job, and doesn't harm the spring steel. Then it was all covered with a clear epoxy, but the new clips are not on yet.









    The new zinc plated clips went on first, then I used two straight sections of the original seat back springs to spread the weight out by tying the springs together.



    Next is new burlap with the original wire woven through the burlap and hog ringed in place. It was used to keep the foam from pushing through the springs.



    Next, is a layer of burlap with plenty of overhang so the foam can roll over the edge and glue down to the burlap---any hog ringing on the foam can show through the seat covers.



    I tried the new preformed foam and didn't like it at all, even after numerous attempts.
    My seat covers are from CARS INC, but Ciadella Interiors has a nice video on Facebook, and they recommend a layered two inches of foam. So the first layer is this 1/2 inch layer of dense material, and glued down. I didn't want the edges built up too much, so the layer doesn't go over the edge.



    Then a 1" layer of high density foam was glued down.



    More glue is applied to the overhang and it was rolled over the edge.



    Finally a 1/2" layer of med density foam is glued and rolled over the edge.



    The seat cover has been on and off several times while making adjustments, but I couldn't be more happy with it. The rear black flap is not glued yet.











  • LEE T
    Registered Member
    • Aug 2013
    • 418
    • 1806

    #2
    The seat backs were done in a similar manner, except its a lot harder to get them to nicely fill the seat cover because its like filling a bag, instead of being able to pull on 4 sides.

    The seat shells were stripped, straightened, cleaned, and painted with the same clear epoxy, then a thin layer of foam was glued on. Glue also seemed a better option for the tack strips instead of staples.





    The vinyl was also glued in order to keep it tight enough to show all the detail lines.



    It takes some stretching to keep the bulges out of the curves.









    I see a lot of seat shells that don't line up with each other, and also, if too much foam is on the shells it will show up when the screws are installed.



    I'm still waiting to tighten the rear part of the seat bottom cover.











    Comment

    • Rick_L
      Registered Member
      • Apr 2012
      • 4676
      • 571

      #3
      Lee, not something I'll do on my present build - but very good info that most guys don't even know you can do. Good job!

      Comment

      • 5Clint7
        Registered Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 237
        • 39

        #4
        Excellent tutorial and a perfect job. I wish that I had this a bout 5 years ago when I did mine. Where did you find the special tools? Again, it looks great.
        sigpic


        Comment

        • LEE T
          Registered Member
          • Aug 2013
          • 418
          • 1806

          #5
          Thanks guys, the tools are made by Osborn and sold by vendors.
          C.S. Osborne & Co. The Perfect Blend of Tradition and Innovation in Toolmaking Our Products C.S. Osborne & Co. specializes in industrial, leather, and upholstery tools through its main brand. Its extended brand family also offers meat processing and packing tools, metal fasteners, custom-made upholstery products and tools, and the patented Parmalee wrench. Our Edge […]

          Comment

          • WagonCrazy
            Registered Member
            • Mar 2012
            • 1881
            • 530
            • Santa Clarita, CA

            #6
            Well documented Lee. Appreciate that.
            1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
            1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

            Comment

            • chevynut
              Registered Member
              • Nov 2011
              • 11030
              • 115
              • Fort Collins, CO

              #7
              Nice job and great writeup! I'm sure it will help someone with their rebuild.
              56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


              Other vehicles:

              56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
              56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
              57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
              1962 327/340HP Corvette
              1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
              2001 Porsche Boxster S
              2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
              2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

              Comment

              • carls 56 (RIP 11/24/2021)
                Registered Member
                • Jan 2011
                • 1857
                • 33
                • Culpeper, Va.

                #8
                very nice, thanks for sharing.
                ARMY NAM VET, very proud!

                56 210 4dr

                drive and enjoy them while you work on them, life is to short.

                Comment

                • oldschool57
                  Registered Member
                  • Aug 2015
                  • 10
                  • 2652

                  #9
                  Looks great, what about the seat back buttons?

                  Comment

                  • LEE T
                    Registered Member
                    • Aug 2013
                    • 418
                    • 1806

                    #10
                    I think the important thing is to get the buttons in the right location. Just find some seats that look right to you, and measure where the buttons are located, I haven't installed these yet.

                    Comment

                    • 5Clint7
                      Registered Member
                      • Jan 2011
                      • 237
                      • 39

                      #11
                      Originally posted by LEE T
                      I think the important thing is to get the buttons in the right location. Just find some seats that look right to you, and measure where the buttons are located, I haven't installed these yet.
                      Buttons are 5? in. from the side silver pipping on each side and 6? from the silver piping on bottom. This is for the front and back. These measurements were taken from an original cover and transferred to my new covers.
                      [IMG][/IMG]
                      [IMG][/IMG]
                      sigpic


                      Comment

                      • LEE T
                        Registered Member
                        • Aug 2013
                        • 418
                        • 1806

                        #12
                        Thanks for posting Clint, I was a little hesitant to do that because I have so many variants on my collection of seats. One is only 4 1/2" from the side, so I think it is just one of those things that wasn't a priority on mass produced cars. I haven't heard anyone complain about the seat button location on their car, but then everyone isn't as particular as some of us.

                        So I just think it is better to find a car that looks right to you, then get a measurement on it.

                        Comment

                        • LAD41
                          Registered Member
                          • May 2016
                          • 4
                          • 3009

                          #13
                          modify seat frame / great article ...i

                          is it possible to modify 1955 upper seatback frame to conform to 1957 seatback frame?
                          I would like to use 1957 seat patterns. If so, do you have a photograph to show me what 1957 frame looks like?


                          Very informative article / great information and photographs


                          Originally posted by LEE T
                          The seat backs were done in a similar manner, except its a lot harder to get them to nicely fill the seat cover because its like filling a bag, instead of being able to pull on 4 sides.

                          The seat shells were stripped, straightened, cleaned, and painted with the same clear epoxy, then a thin layer of foam was glued on. Glue also seemed a better option for the tack strips instead of staples.





                          The vinyl was also glued in order to keep it tight enough to show all the detail lines.



                          It takes some stretching to keep the bulges out of the curves.









                          I see a lot of seat shells that don't line up with each other, and also, if too much foam is on the shells it will show up when the screws are installed.



                          I'm still waiting to tighten the rear part of the seat bottom cover.











                          Comment

                          • LEE T
                            Registered Member
                            • Aug 2013
                            • 418
                            • 1806

                            #14
                            Here is the seat back after bending and installing some original heavier seat bottom springs for it. The pictures were taken to show the alignment of the springs to the frame and each other, but it should show what you want to know. I think you would have a use 57 seat backs for what you want. JMO









                            The part of the arm that shows was originally painted battleship gray, so I sprayed it on the rest of the frame. Also notice that the original flat piece of sheet metal is now attached on the left side.



                            The burlap is really not necessary now since I used a very dense material for the first layer of foam, but I did want the fine wire that the factory used to keep the foam from pushing through the springs, so I just used the old burlap.

                            Comment

                            • LAD41
                              Registered Member
                              • May 2016
                              • 4
                              • 3009

                              #15
                              seat back frame

                              [ thanks for the quick response the pictures will help out a lot . i have a line on a 1957 seat i guess i can just use that instead thanks againUOTE=LEE T;32990]Here is the seat back after bending and installing some original heavier seat bottom springs for it. The pictures were taken to show the alignment of the springs to the frame and each other, but it should show what you want to know. I think you would have a use 57 seat backs for what you want. JMO









                              The part of the arm that shows was originally painted battleship gray, so I sprayed it on the rest of the frame. Also notice that the original flat piece of sheet metal is now attached on the left side.



                              The burlap is really not necessary now since I used a very dense material for the first layer of foam, but I did want the fine wire that the factory used to keep the foam from pushing through the springs, so I just used the old burlap.

                              [/QUOTE]

                              Comment

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