Nomad final assembly

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  • chevynut
    replied
    Originally posted by 567chevys
    Is that a power antenna ? Thanks Sid
    yes it’s a power antenna. Some guys delete the antenna but I’ve read the hidden ones don’t work well and I like having a radio. I wanted to keep all the stock stuff on the car but upgrade them. I had to make some custom parts to make it work.

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  • 567chevys
    replied
    Hey CN, That's some bad ass stuff, I hope you get to drive it very soon . Is that a power antenna ?

    Thanks Sid

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  • bigblock
    replied
    Dam CN that's looking great!!

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  • chevynut
    replied
    I've spent most of the past several weeks working on interior stuff, and on the Montana house. But I did get some more assembly done.

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    I have installed the hood but it still needs adjustment after I get the other fender on. I'm hesitating on it because I've still been having some issues with the brake pump. I will need to get it installed so I can get the car down to Javier's shop for carpet.

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  • 567chevys
    replied
    Hello Laszlo ,

    You sure have come up with some great ideals thanks for sharing with us .

    Thanks Sid

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  • bigblock
    replied
    Nice work.

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  • chevynut
    replied
    My new Dapper Lighting LED headlights have two driver modules and a pretty complicated harness with connectors that needs to fit in the headlight bucket. The stock bucket isn't deep enough to accommodate everything so I cut the backs of them off, and cut another pair of buckets I had to make them deeper. I also re-wired the harness to make it a little more compact and eliminated some big connectors. I was going to weld the buckets back together, but after putting everything in behind the headlight I decided it would be a lot easier to work on them in the future if I connected the two pieces with hoses. I bought some 108mm silicone hose that works perfectly. I also added a 5-pin weatherpak connector. This will make it a lot easier if I ever have to change the headlight bulb. The white halos will come on with the ignition as DRLs, and they will flash amber when the turn signal comes on. The headlights are projectors so they have a shutter in them for low beam....I like the modern look with the classic glass.

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  • WagonCrazy
    replied
    Windshield in!!!! I see a test drive coming up soon.

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  • chevynut
    replied
    Got the windshield installed today with Gary's help. There was a lot more prep work than I expected to get ready for the installation. The channel where the defroster vents are was light gray primer, and Gary luckily mentioned that it would be visible. So I painted in satin black before the windshield installation. I put 3M black strip caulk all the way around the pinch weld because I didn't want any leaks....I know a lot of guys install them dry but I didn't want to risk it. I used a Steele Rubber gasket which fit like a glove and went in easily when lubed up with GoJo. One thing I would do in the future is lube up the top stainless so you can slide it back and forth easily for the best fit. I had already straightened and polished the stainless so I put it all on. Gotta get more screws for the interior trim.

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  • WagonCrazy
    replied
    Lookin' good Laszlo. Polished makes it look so custom.

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  • chevynut
    replied
    I am getting ready to install the hood and fenders, so I decided to finish the hardware for the hood hinges. I machined a few washers for the flat head screws to match the others on the hinges and fender mounts. I used ARP 12-point stainless nuts on the other end. IMG_8126.jpg

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  • 55mike
    replied
    Originally posted by chevynut

    Thanks for the feedback on that. My C4 crossmember is 5" above the ground but the frame rails at the front of the door are only 3 3/4". That's my lowest point on the car. Do you know what yours is at that point?
    Best I can see by flopping on my side and rolling my tape measure at the lowest spot (right in front of the door edge - where the body mount goes to the frame) it is about 4.25-4.50 "

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  • bigblock
    replied
    Come on CN what happen to your sense of adventure.

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  • chevynut
    replied
    Yesterday I re-attached the DZUS fasteners that I removed from the radiator cover prior to painting it, installed some gaskets, and put it on for the first drive. I will have to remove it again to install the fenders. I polished the snorkel connector hose clamps and installed them along with the hose. I also topped off the coolant since I got the engine hot last time I ran it.

    I have a bit of a long cranking before it starts and got some tips to try on the Holley forums. It's 3-4 seconds and it seems like it should fire quicker than that. Had the same thing with the C950 so it may be cranking timing which is 15 degrees. Still need to work on tweaking that stuff. I love EFI though. Timing and fuel changes made via laptop instead of a wrench and screwdriver.

    Attached Files
    Last edited by chevynut; 08-16-2024, 01:52 PM.

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  • chevynut
    replied
    Originally posted by 55mike
    FWIW... My 55 sits about 4 1/8" at the front (stock) cross member. I have to REALLY watch speed bumps, driveways etc... my headers are tucked up as tight as possible, and I have CalTrac bars that are designed for "lowered cars".. looks cool, but it's not easy sometimes.
    Thanks for the feedback on that. My C4 crossmember is 5" above the ground but the frame rails at the front of the door are only 3 3/4". That's my lowest point on the car. Do you know what yours is at that point?
    Last edited by chevynut; 08-11-2024, 10:40 AM.

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