My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

[chevynut]

Here's something that may be useful.....

https://www.eastwood.com/1k-coating-vs-2k-coatings

[Troy]

Go back to YOUR post; you can edit it, but of course not the responses that follow after...

BamaNomad, for some reason there is no edit button on my posts with pics, that's why I was asking.

[chevynut]

Pretty sure the ability to edit a post goes away after 24 hours or so.

[BamaNomad]

Pretty sure the ability to edit a post goes away after 24 hours or so.

CN is correct that it goes away after some time; I have the edit button on posts I made earlier today, but do not have it for posts several days ago...

[Tabasco]

"2K" refers to any 2-part primer, including urethanes and epoxies. So epoxy primer is "2K".

Thanks. Most of the cars I did in the past I used lacquer primer surfacer. This car I am working on is the first I have used 2k primer. I was just going on how things were worded on the SPI price list. Thanks for correcting me.

But I am pretty sure that what I said about epoxy primer is correct.

[BamaNomad]

Tabasco, Yes what you said about Epoxy primer is correct (ie. you can do bodywork/smooothing with filler, etc) over it.

ALL Epoxy paints that I've seen or used are two part (2-K if you prefer that term), but I like calling two part paints as two part paints because it's more clear what one means, meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.

Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).

One can even add an urethane activator/hardener to 'straight enamel' paints which will also make that paint more durable.

[chevynut]

meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.

The hardeners, catalysts, activators, etc. used for 2K paints/primers do not speed drying. They cause or enhance a chemical reaction with the paint that causes the molecules to cross-link making it more durable. In fact, to be a "2K paint" there must be a chemical reaction, not just changing the paint in some way like adding thinner, etc. The urethane basecoat in BC/CC is typically not 2K but you can add a hardener if you want to. The clearcoat is 2K urethane.

Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).

Urethane is a different polymer than epoxy and requires a different activator. What happens with epoxies is the same thing that happens with urethanes, but different chemicals are used to cause the molecular cross-linking.

It's similar to plastics. Thermoset plastics harden by chemically cross-linking the molecules and the material can't be melted down and re-used. A thermoplastic can be ground up and re-used since there is no chemical reaction during manufacture of the part.

[Rick_L]

If you add catalyst to the old school acrylic enamel paint, it actually slows drying by quite a lot. And that crap didn't dry very fast to start with.

Fortunately that's not an option any more if you want an OEM color. I guess you could add it to whatever colors Rustoleum or similar products come in.

With 2k paint or primer, the catalyst is required if you ever want it to dry. You don't just shoot it without catalyst.

Modern urethane with catalyst dries to the touch almost as quickly as old school lacquer.

The catalyst for epoxy primer is not heavily laden with isocyanates (like the urethane paint) - but that doesn't mean you should spray it without proper PPE protection/procedures.

[Troy]

Hello All,

Not much done yet, still trying to finish up my garage. I just finished putting my blast cabinet together and adding updates, sealed all joints, added foot pedal and new quality nozzle. Just a few things left to do in the garage. As I said in an earlier post I have some questions that I'm not 100% sure of.

1. I'm putting in side mounts for the engine and a new transmission cross member. I haven't measure where the engine is. Question is... is the crank center line centered between the frame rails or is there some offset one way or another? Same with the out put shaft of the tranny?

2. Now that my Blast cabinet is done, can anyone give me some input on what blast media do you use and what's good for different materials?

Thanks for your input!!! More to come!!!

[BamaNomad]

I use glass bead for everything but mostly because that's what I have in my cabinet and I'm too lazy to swap it out.. I have some walnut shells that I want to try... sometime..

[Troy]

Well All,

Getting ready to start soon!! My plan is to start restoring and updating component systems like rear end/suspension, front end/suspension, then pull the frame and restore and update it. Then to cleanup the under carriage and set the body back on. I'm not doing a restoration or a total custom just a fun driver. I don't want to blow it apart because I don't know if I'll ever get it back together. I've decided on Toyota Voodoo Blue for the main body w/ white on the trunk and roof. The interior is going to be mostly black probably a Ciadella kit installed by myself.

I have a few questions for the knowledgeable. I looked at SPI's website and they don't mix base coats, so who would you go to, to get your paints mixed? Is something like Toyota Voodoo Blue copy righted and Joe blow can't get it or have it mixed? I'm sure I'll have more questions and I'll ask them as they come up!!!

[Rick_L]

Most any automotive paint store should be able to mix the Toyota color in whatever brand of base coat they sell (PPG, Axalta, Glasurit, Martin Senour, etc. Ask them if they can make you a spray out sample to verify the color. Spray it out on a sample card they can provide. You could even clear the sample.

[Troy]

Well here's my first SMALL project, I stripped painted and resealed my new differential, not much but this Covid 19 and the weather have really put a damper on my progress! Fortunately for me my work is allowing everyone that can to work from home. So that's good! Anyway here's my rear.

55-Diff.jpg

I don't know what I'm doing wrong in the posting pics, anyone got input for me?

[Rick_L]

Looks pretty slick. What paint did you use on the 3rd member housing?

[Troy]

Thanks Rick, it's Dupli-Color Engine enamel, DE1651 Cast Iron.