No sh**. If I would have imagined this taking so long I probably wouldn't have even started it. :D
Actually it's been fun and challenging, and sometimes frustrating, and I've learned a lot.
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And after all of that, it would be hard to drive it and watch it all get dirty and turn into a used car. I always fear bugs, dirt, rocks, and especially rain with anything nice. I don't even have working wipers on 2 cars and a 1.5-ton 1950 Chevy truck with 2600 original miles on it. Just Rain-x in case.
IMO it's a lot easier to just restore a car to original because all you have to do is rebuild things and paint and assemble. A restomod is a lot more, especially when you add all sorts of modern stuff to it and custom designed and built parts. Building everything yourself takes that much longer.
Got back from Montana last week and had a pile of stuff to catch up on, including shipping a bunch of ebay sales, yard work, and just putting stuff away.
I finally got out into the shop yesterday afternoon and installed the door stainless on both doors. I had the passenger side installed with just the four end screws to see how it looked, but they're now installed with all the clips and 3M strip caulk to seal the holes up.
I also terminated the wires and added Molex connectors for the tweeters that are located my headliner since Larry wants to get that installed soon. I want to make sure I have everything ready so I don't have to take it back out for some stupid reason.
The next thing I need to do is figure out how I want to channel the seatbelts in the b-pillar. I want part of the belts covered in headliner so they're hidden. May have to bend up some thin sheetmetal for that if I can figure out how to make it work.
The j-weatherstips and door weatherstrips still need to be installed. I understand they will completely change my door alignment so I've been dreading that project, but it must be done! I acquired a pair of T&N door weatherstrips so I hope they work as well as everyone says they do.
Here's a pic of the driver's side with the trim on the door.
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I'm running into a few issues with the interior beltline molding on the door. First is the alignment with the dash.....it doesn't. I've cut the welds on the side of the dash to try to lower it but it doesn't move much, even with a ratchet strap. Some guy suggested I try that and he says it worked for him. If I raise the door molding, the vent window hits it. Not sure this is typical of how these cars were built or not. Also, the rearmost screw hole for the door molding is off by at least 1/4", too far forward. There's no hole where it wants to sit. I don't know if I welded it up or if the molding is off, but it can't go forward any more. I don't see how they ever put these damn things together at the factory.:rolleyes:
I'm sure the Cleveland body plant had LOTS of issues assembling Nomad bodies, and I bet that Harley Earl was cursed many times (for requiring the speedy design incorporation of the Nomad features during the '55 model year), and this affects the '56 and 57 Nomads as well since they didn't provide for any 'design improvements that couldn't be made on the assembly line!
Hey Chevynut,
I had a quick question, I remember on your website the pics of the beautifully painted C4 Corvette Suspension frames with the polished stainless steel exhaust systems. What exhaust kits did you use for your customer's trifives and also your own 56 Nomad? I'd like to buy one that is already polished. I know, I'll probably have to do some fabrication and polishing myself, but if there is a kit that comes with mirror like polished surfaces right out the box, then that saves me a ton on time.
Thanks.
I don't know of any "off the shelf" mandrel bent stainless exhaust systems on the market, nor any suitable for C4 conversions. I don't know of anything that's already polished.
I didn't use a kit, I put mine together with 3" stainless mandrel bends and straight tubes that I welded together. I polished most of the pieces before assembling, then again after assembling them. I think Chuck (the blue frame) did the same thing.
Here's some pics of mine during assembly and you can see the individual bends....
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Here's Chuck's and I think his was ceramic coated stainless.
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I've been working on a few details up front to get ready to install the fenders. I cut the rubber seals for the edge of the fenderwell flaps and "fender protectors" but I won't glue them on until I get the fenders on to make sure they fit and I get a good seal. Those seals are the repop front fender seals.
The rearmost flaps are the original 56 pieces. I found out that the original passenger side lower flap didn't fit quite like it used to and for some reason was a little further back than when I first assembled the car. So I had to take a small slice out of it to make it fit right. It's easier than cutting the custom flap above it. Also decided to not use the stock hex head screws where the two meet and use button head stainless socket screws like I have everywhere else, so I have to weld nuts on anyhow. I only have the lower ones partially coated with bedliner because I ran out, so now I can finish them.
Here's how everything fits with the inner fender flaps in place. Notice that removing the middle flap I can get to the brake reservoir and pump, and on the passenger side I can get to the coolant tank. All 3 flaps are actually removable with the fenders installed if I ever need to get to something else. And yes, I checked clearances while turning and everything clears fine....I hope :eek:.
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I really admire the work that you are doing. You're building an awesome ride!