08/17/2004

Subject: [71%] [PMX:#####] 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTF
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 12:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: BOB FORD <bob_ford@sbcglobal.net>
To: "BOB,FORD" <BOB_FORD@sbcglobal.net>

THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST FOR AUG
17, 2004


IF THIS E-MAIL HAS AN ATTACHMENT, IMMEDIATELY DELETE THIS
E-MAIL.


THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN
THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER AND HAVE
A
LITTLE FUN IN THE PROCESS. ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME.


TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@SBCGLOBAL.NET


THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET
SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT
IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF
THE EVENT.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU
ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE

1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME
ZONE.

TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU
HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.

YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.

IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE
LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.

THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS
OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY
MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.

IF YOU BUY SOMETHING FROM A LIST MEMBER, PLEASE BE AWARE
THAT I HAVE
NO WAY OF KNOWING THE QUALITY OF THE PRODUCT OR THE HONESTY
OF THE
SELLER. BUYER BEWARE.

BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND
ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAIL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE
READ.

THANKS
BOB FORD

EDITOR
-------------------
From: Editor

Would you like to have a picture of your car on a real U.S.
postage stamp. You can. Just
go to HTTP://WWW.PHOTOSTAMPS.COM

They will put a photo of your choice on real U.S. postage
stamps.

BOB
--------------------------------------------
From:Rickroer1@aol.com
BOB, had a great visit given at your house this past
week-end . Met some good guys,with nice rides. Hope to do
it again next year.
I've got a rebuilt(100 miles on it) factory 4bbl 265 cid
carb;p/s generator
combo;and a treadle vac master cylinder still for sale if
anyone is interested.
I'm still in need of a passenger side inner front fender
extension housing. If
anyone has any interest in or information regarding these
items, call
(714)532-2649 or e-mail me. I'm in orange, California .
Thanks again for your
lists Bob
---------------------------------
From:Steve_Unrein@infonet.com

Hi Bob

I think the member that was mad because he bought a car
sight unseen
was just looking for someone to blame.

Common sense in this day and age with all the fraud in the
car trading
world dictates that "buyer beware".

Your advise to NEVER buy a car that you have not seen and
drove or have
not had an uninterested third party check out for condition
is well founded.

Advise on steps to purchase cars via the Internet have been
noted in
your list several times in the past.

Thanks for all you do for our Hobby!!

Regards

Steve Unrein
Treasurer
LA Classic Chevy Club
------------------------------------------

From:"Michael Huffman" <ovrkil@msn.com>

Hello Bob.

I have enjoyed getting your email newsletters. A change in
business
has prompted me to sell a rare item. I have the Hurricane
M.A.SK. 57 "show" car
that Kenner toys took to the toy shows. The car is in
rough shape, but has been
stored inside since I have owned it. The interior is
relatively gutted, but is
as I purchased it. The car has what appears to be the
original engine and
transmission. The left front received damage when it was
moved before I
purchased it. I have had the bumper straitened and
rechromed, but did not
repair the fender. The car runs, but has been run very
little in the last 10
years. I am asking $17,500.00. The purchase includes tow
of the original toys.
I have attached tow pictures. I can have more available
if anyone is
interested. Interested parties can email me for more
info at ovrkil@msn.com,
or call 937-546-5765. Thanks. Michael H Huffman OHIO
------------------------------------
From:RICHSRIDE@aol.com

Hi Bob! You mentioned a person unhappy with a car he
purchased that was
advertised on your list and you wanted comments on wether
you gave good advice
or were full of it. Actually both are true, you are full
of good advice! Rich
--------------------------------
From:jerald.mull@ngc.com

Hi friends-
At our last Club Meeting we got word of this project car
through one of our
members, Nancy Misensol. A '57 Chevy BelAir 2-door Hardtop
is for sale in New
Mexico. Car has not been run in 12 years and is outdoors on
blocks. Rust on
surface of body & bumpers. Needs complete restoration.
Stock (?) V8 with 4 speed
transmission. Original Power Brakes, 3 piece front bumper,
accessory bumper
guards. Car was originally Surf Green on roof with Highland
Green body. Asking
$5000. Contact "Louie" at (505) 660-0241.
As always, please contact Louie directly for any specifics.

Jerry Mull - L.A. Classic Chevy Club President
-----------------------------------------
From:"Dave" <dave@tigsplace.com>

CJ,

I have different paint chips on my website, but I don't
have the color
combinations listed. Here is a site which lists and
displays them pretty well.
http://www.classicbowtie.com/1955-19...nt%20Codes.htm

Thanks,

Dave Hecker
Webmaster Bob Ford's 57-56-55 Chevy List Archive
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevylist/
President San Jose Classic Chevys
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/sjcc/
------------------------------
From:"Bud Wood" <woody@ctcweb.net>

Bob,
I have been a member of the list for a long time now, and
appreciate it very much. However, the person upset with
you over a car he bought unseen is hardly significant
compared to why I am upset with you. Frankly Bob, I didn’t
win the lottery last month, the battery in my 57 is going
bad, I haven't found a job yet, my new upholstery is off
schedule, and my wife seems more interested in television
than me lately. All these thing are likewise clearly your
fault. Straighten up BOB will ya!
Touche' my friend.
Bud Woods
57 BA 2dr HT #69 Oakland
Boise, Idaho.
-----------------------------------------
From:"Dale D." <canyonrose@yahoo.com>

Bob,
I am a long-time list member and only read it because
I have nothing better
to do. I read your advice at the beginning of the "Cars For
Sale List" and I am
very confused. I am quite certain that everyone on the
Internet is honest to a
fault and would never do or say anything untrue just to get
my money.
Furthermore, since you put out this list that I pay a
considerable amount to
receive and you are so well paid for the minute amount of
time it takes to
assemble it, you should assume certain responsibilities:
1) You should personally inspect each vehicle listed for
sale so that,
2) You can give a lifetime warranty on each vehicle.
3) You should send all of my kids and grandkids to college.
4) You should pay off my house and credit card debt and
furnish me with a
lifetime supply of food.
5) You should create world peace.
Now, who's "full of it?" My advice to YOU is: "Ignore
Idiocy." As always,
"Thanks" for everything and best wishes, -Delivery Dale
------------------------------------
From:Clifchev@aol.com

Hello Bob, You have hit the nail on the head about doing
your homework on a
vehicle being purchased sight unseen. I hear about this day
in, Day out from
people who buy vehicles off EBAY. I tell them the exact
same statement as you
have stated.

Also I suggest that there might be a VCCA, CCI, Bowtie,
Or a Ford list member
in the area that may know of the car, Or at least could
check it out.

Bob, Do not let this bother you any further. The person
who is upset with you
should only be upset with him/Herself for being an IDIOT.

Cliff Waldron
------------------------------------------
From:Ilovemy56@aol.com

Reba, Cement Pond should be in Beverly Hills, Calif.
Richard

Editor’s note: With my luck it would be Miss Hathaway
asking me to go for a swim!!
BOB
------------------------------
From:Ilovemy56@aol.com

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
FROM: Editor
Recently one of the list members was mad at me because he
bought a car sight unseen from one
for sale on the list and the condition of the car was not
what he expected.. I want to emphasize I HAVE NO WAY OF
KNOWING ABOUT THE CONDITION OF THE CARS BEING LISTED
FOR SALE. I suggest you NEVER buy a car you have not seen
and drove. If you have any questions about a car you
propose to buy, have an appraiser look at the car and give
you a value for it. The appraiser's fee will be CHEAP
INSURANCE. I would also recommend you have a mechanic
you trust go over the car and tell you it's condition. If
the seller balks at having the car inspected and/or
appraised, walk away from the deal.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Bob, I totally AGREE 200 % Richard
--------------------------------
From:"Dean, Doug" <Doug.Dean@Pfizer.com>

I have a question for the Liste members: Every cam-shaft
installation
I've been involved in calls for a "break-in" period where
the engine is
required to run at a moderate RPM for a specified period of
time to properly
season the new cam. Does anyone know if brand new engines
in cars just coming
off the assembly lines from the factory have this same
requirement?
Somehow, I doubt they perform this same break-in procedure
for each new engine at
the plant. It would seem to me that the installation and
start-up of a new
cam should be the same either way. What is the difference?
Anyone know?

Doug Dean
Rogue River, OR
-----------------------------
From:"Thomas Pizzi" <rokbiter@hotmail.com>

Hi Bob
I can't believe in this day and age someone would purchase
any
vehicle sight unseen. The best part of this is not taking
the blame themselves
for their own stupidity and complaining to you about it.
Always bring at
least one other person who knows vehicles with you when
interested in a for
sale vehicle. Having a second pair of eyes checking out any
vehicle should
keep you from getting burned by unscrupulous people.
Remember that second
pair of eyes may see what you didn't or want to admit
seeing wrong. No one
should ever point the finger at someone else for their own
undoing in this
case.

Enough said on this point. Your list is a great conduit for
us Tri5 addicts.
Tom
Rochester,NY
'56 Belair 2dr sedan
---------------
From:"Stewart Dale" <dales56chevy@yahoo.com>

Bob,

As many have said, thanks for all you do, which many of us
know goes far beyond
publishing this e-mail list. Once again, I won't be able to
make it to your
house for the get together. That thing called work is
getting in the way. I hope
everyone has a great time!

The question I want to pose to everyone is this: I have a
283 with an attached
powerglide that I pulled out of my '56. Since I am not
going to be putting them
back into the car, I would like to sell them. Being new to
all this, I have no
idea what a fair asking price is. I don't want to rip
anyone off, including
myself. Anyone out there have any direction?

They were running great when I pulled them out of the car.
I started my tear
down when I did due to electrical, not the motor/trans. I
pulled them out a
couple of years ago and have just kept them covered.
Because of the time, I
would imagine it would be best they get rebuilt but this is
over my head. I know
the original engine was supposed to be a 265 and that may
be what this engine is
but the guy I bought it from said it was a 283 and since I
hear they look
similar, I wouldn't swear to either.

I live in Fallbrook, CA (northern San Diego) and the most
logical buyer would be
someone in the area. I appreciate any advice.

Dale Stewart
dales56chevy@yahoo.com
--------------------------
From:"Stewart Dale" <dales56chevy@yahoo.com>

Reba, I believe your cement pond would have to be in
Beverly Hills, would it
not?

Dale
------------------------------
From:"joey" <mailjoey@peoplepc.com>

So this guy has A 72 Impala and he walks into the shop and
asks me, how can I
get better milage out of my car. I get 18 MPG in the city,
I get 22 MPG on the
hiway, so I tell him, stay out of the city. Have fun list,
Joey
------------------
From:"STEPHANIE&DAN MONTGOMERY" <customrods@prodigy.net>

I think the list member who was mad at you for the piece of
crap he bought
should have his head examined. Where do these kinds of
people come from,
Albania? I could just hear the excuse he told his wife! I
vote to remove him
from the list. He's beyond help! Dan
---------------------------------
From:"Mike" <mikeblaz@optonline.net>

Bob,

You said a mouthful, the only way to buy a car is to
check it out
first or if too far away invest in an inspection first.

Mike Ciferri
-----------------------
From:Nagel101044@aol.com

Bob,

I agree with your advice. But, I must say that I've
purchased two old vehicles
(a '53 Ford and a '51 Stude truck) sight unseen myself. On
one, I relied on both
the sellers' description and a video that he made -- with
the car running -- and
sent to me. With the other, really a parts truck, I relied
on the decryption
alone.

I wasn't at all disappointed with either purchase. In fact,
both proved to be
better than I'd imagined. I felt at ease after talking with
the sellers and
sizing them up. Maybe I was just lucky, but there are still
good and honest
people out there.

Roy

Editor’s note. Roy, I believe most people are honest and
would not lie to you about the condition of a car.
HOWEVER, there are some people that are not honest and will
lie to you about the condition of a car. The problem is,
how do you know the good ones from the bad ones.

There is also the problem with words like “good condition”
or “surface rust”. These words can mean different things
to different people. One definition of “surface rust” is
that the rust on both sides of the metal have met in the
middle of the metal.
BOB
--------------------------
From:"ratpk@juno.com" <ratpk@juno.com>

A practice that is less expensive than hiring an appraiser,
and better
than taking a "pig-in-a-poke", is to call any type of auto
service
shop...like a Walmart Service Center, and arrange to have
the car checked
over by them, for a fee. It is usually very reasonable,
can be put on
your credit card...and should be fairly close to where the
seller lives.

You can have them check the basic condition of the vehicle
over (belts,
hoses, leaks, color and smell of fluids and service
records)...and they
will usually offer personal observations, as long as they
do not have
to write them down. You will get a good idea of how well
the vehicle
has been maintained.

You can usually get them to sight down the side of the
vehicle for
damage-repairs...and basically be your eyes. I got the
service manager to
walk around the car on his cell phone once, and he told me
about every
dent and ding. It save me from making a mistake...I passed
on the deal
because the seller had not be completely truthful. A
little here can
save a lot later.
-----------------------
From:"mr55chev" <mr55chev@comcast.net>

Bob - You are correct - I know of very few people who would
"buy a pig
in a poke" and this is VERY true about a car. I have
bought several items
over the popular auction site, and been burnt on a couple
of them. I would
never dream of buying a car from one. I need to look one
over carefully, and
there is no time at auction to get there. I know of no
list of
certified appraisers who could do the job for me - perhaps
that is something the
list could help out by asking members if they know of one
either in their
area or a nationwide service.
Sandy Pierce
Salt Lake City, Utah
-----------------------
From:"Chevyfordodge Chryslerambleracer"
<funcars4us@hotmail.com>

Napa, CA 4500.00
1957 Chevy 210 Four Door Sedan
283 Power Pac with three speed trans.
Absolutely straight solid body.
Trim is all pretty nice.
Yep, it has a small rust spot in the lower right fender.
Yep, both front floor pans were replaced. BUT the floors,
rockers, body supports
are fantastic!
Yes, it NEEDS an interior. New carpets are included but not
installed. Paint is
all original so nothing is hidden under fresh paint. The
car drives well. Seems
to be mechanically sound. Yes it is registered and you can
drive it home.
Contact me at 707 226-5859 or funcars4us@hotmail.com

Editor’s note. Isn’t Napa noted for taking a grape and
making a beverage? <G>
BOB
-----
From:"Chevyfordodge Chryslerambleracer"
<funcars4us@hotmail.com>

Bob, Your message about buyer should never buy an car
"sight unseen" on the last
Chevy For Sale List spurred me up to the key board. I have
mentioned a couple
times on the list exactly the same thing! NEVER take a
persons word for the
description! Get someone that is an UNINTERESTED PARTY to
inspect the car. Think
about it, if you buy a piece of property the lender
requires an appraisal from
an INDEPENDENT PROPERTY APPRAISER. Why in the world do
folks buy cars without an
inspection? I just spent time at Hot August Nights in Reno
doing appraisals and
did one on a car that came from back east. The new owner
showed me pictures of
the car before and after it was "restored" and the
appraisal that came with the
car from the dealer he bought it from. The car that I
inspected was in need of a
COMPLETE restoration! The work that had been done of the
car was a waste of
time! What a shame that dealers and private parties are
getting away with this
stuff! SPEND the MONEY! GET an appraisal and/or a
pre-purchase inspection!

Now you got me started, so here I go with more about
appraisals. I have MANY
buyers come to me AFTER (wrong) they buy a car to have me
write an appraisal.
Many of these appraisals are REQUIRED by the insurance
company to get the cars
insured. Some basic things to think about when insuring
your car is, if it is
"stock" the company uses standard price guides to determine
value. If the
vehicle is modified (and you TELL them) they will ask for
an appraisal.

Now, let's say you have a claim,, now it gets sticky... If
you do not agree with
the settlement offer, you have the right to arbitration,
you go to arbitration
and are asked to prove what your vehicle is really worth.
If you have an
appraisal done by an independent appraiser you are in good
shape. If you had one
of the guys in the club, or the guy that works on the car
or the dealer that
sold you the car, you have a conflict and the appraisal
will be no good.

Make SURE you KNOW you are covered! ASK others, invite an
appraiser AND an
insurance rep to speak at a club meeting!
---------------------------------
From:"Bruce Ridge" <bridge@nazdar.com>

Bob,
This is good advice and you not responsible for someone
else's poor
decisions.
I like the Chevy mailing you do and please keep mailing to
me. I won't
blame you for the bad decisions I make, or the economy, or
the war, or
the new scratch I got on the hood of my 55.....
Thank you,
Bruce Ridge
------------------------
From:"The Shew's" <shew@ntelos.net>

Hello Everyone,
I have not emailed lately, getting ready to move to
Nashville at the end of the
month. My 57 is in a body shop right now, I do not think it
will make the move
at the same time I move. I have two questions. I want to
install the Ram Jet 350
FI but I like the thought of a supercharger, has anyone
tried to add one to this
motor or any fuel injection motor. I also wonder how fast
the Ram Jet alone will
make my car.
I plan to sell my 2 door front split bench seat probably on
Ebay does anybody
know how I would ship something so big and heavy.

Charlie Shew
Castlewood VA
shew@ntelos.net
-----------------------------
From:"Mr Chevy57" <MrChevy57@Earthlink.Net>

To Monte Ables from
Norman Oklahoma


57 Nomad Wiring - In all probability, your problem is NOT
in the fuse block.
There are three wires that travel from the harness on the
drivers side to the
rear. One is for left signal/brake light, one is for rite
signal/brake light,
and one is for taillights & license plate lights.

Frequently, one or more of these wires (white, orange) is
rusted thru or broken.

You don't need to replace the harness either. Remove the
kick panel on the
drivers side and locate these wires. Then follow them to
the back of the car
and look for your short. You will, no doubt, have to
remove carpeting and
things along the way.

Or, splice three new wires at the kick panel and run them
to the rear, splicing
in again. Use heat shrink over your splices.

Barry
Tucson
---------------------------------------
From:"wbranstetter" <wbranstetter@sbcglobal.net>

Bob;


I have enclosed our car show announcement for September
2004, and would
appreciate it if you would include it in your upcoming
newsletter. As an
enthusiast, we want you to know how much we
appreciate your time and
information.


Thanks;
Wayne
OCCCC 2004 Show Announcement
The Orange County Classic Chevy Club is having its 16th
Annual Fall Classic Car
Show on September 26th, 2004, at Central Park in La Palma,
from 9A.M. to 4 P.M.
Proceeds to benefit Explorer Post #437, sponsored by the La
Palma Police
Department. It is open to all makes and models of cars 1979
and older. No mini
trucks or alcohol allowed. Live Disc Jockey playing 50Æs
and 60Æs music. Dash
Plaques to all entries. A T-shirt with show artwork is
included with your
pre-registration of $ 25.00 prior to September 18th. You
may purchase t-shirts
at the show for $ 15.00 each. Entry on day of show is $
25.00, and does not
include a T-shirt. Wall plaque trophies to top 3 in 17
separate classes, and
desk-top standing trophies to Best Engine, Paint, Interior,
Best of Show, and
Bad to the Bone. All classes will be judged by our Club
members. Coffee &
Donuts, Hot Dogs, Bar-B-Q Beef, Soft Drinks & bottled water
available. There
will be a raffle and Police equipment on display all day.
Vendors welcome. For
more information please contact by email at;
wbranstetter@sbcglobal.net or call
Wayne at (714) 970-1957.

Editor’s note. Wayne always has a good show. If you are in
the area, I hope you will attend.
BOB
--------------------------------------------------------------

From:garysgearbox@fuse.net

Bob

I have been a member of your list for
quite sometime. I take a lot of interest in the questions
that folks
have about their cars, you know various problems, or where
to get parts.
So I am offering some advise to those especially who are
still learning.
Classic Chevy out of Florida sells a set of two large
(thick) books
that cover most any type problem that you will ever incurr.
The books
are easy to read and in most cases have step by step
pictures. The
information enclosed also is up to date on making the
various modifications
such as, rack and pinion steering, alternator conversion
and keeping your
stock alternator light bulb working. It shows how to
install disc brakes
on all wheels, big block installation, after market
steering column and
just about everything.
These books make for fascinating reading and offers a
person
confidence to try things on his or her own. I strongly
recommend them. They
used to sell for about $65.00 plus shipping.

Gary Howard
Garys Gearbox
Standard Shift Specialist
Since 1982
--------------------------------
From:"Bill Kautz" <kautz@comcast.net>

Bud,
Try www.customautosound.com I had one of their radios in
my '55 Chevy and
have one in my '64 Pontiac. They have AM/FM cassettes to
fit almost any dash
opening. The cassette doors have the correct logo for your
car. Their service
has been excellent, too, and their tech people really know
their stuff. Another
place I've seen advertised is www.rgclassictunes.com Both
are located in CA.
Good Luck!

Wild Bill
-------------------------------
From:kfmartel@rockwellcollins.com

To: Monte Ables,

Your tail lights and license plate lights do not sound
like a fuse problem
althought that is nornally the first place to look. As
these old cars get older
the method of grounding these lights becomes obiviously a
bad way of doing
things. Most of these lights are grounded thru the
mounting brackets and
screws. These connections get dirty and the connection
becomes bad. One one of
my 1955 tail lights I had to add a ground wire to bypass
the screw ground before
my intermittant problem was solved.
I suggest you first remove the light and housing and
clean everything
including the screws. If the screws are loose replace with
a bigger screw in
order to make good electrical contact.

Kim
---------------------------
From:kfmartel@rockwellcollins.com


To Bud Fosdick,

I was looking into getting my '55 Wonderbar radio
converted to AM/FM and did
a lot of research because of the cost ($400-$550). What I
found out from
several sources is this:
Many years ago several places were converting old car
radios into AM/FM using
top of the line transistor components. They looked like the
old radio but worked
just like a new modern radio. You could even get a CD
connector added. But they
were not making any profit as the best components cost them
moet then they could
pass along to the customer. So many od they guys doing this
just stopped doing
it and the few that are left are using some pretty cheat
parts. You still pay a
lot of money for the conversion, but your getting a pretty
losy radio. I know a
guy that even tried to add an FM signal buster as even his
strongest stations
would fade in and out as he drove around town.
If you still are interested you can search the
Google.com website for "radio
Conversions". I know there is a guy on the coast in Central
California that goes
it. I may still have his address. If you want it and can't
find it on the
internet let me know and I'll dig what I have out.
I ended up having a guy at the Pomona Swap meet just
repair my WonderBar
instead of getting it converted. I'm going to put a good
radio in the glovebox
or trunk with a remote.
Let us know what you decide to do.

Kim
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@SBCGLOBAL.NET
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
I plan to live forever, so far so good