Originally Posted by
55 Rescue Dog
I don't have a slave cylinder since it is a hydraulic TO bearing. There is no free play. There is no pressure on it since it just gets pushed back out of the way like a brake caliper piston, so it isn't really spinning if at all, and has no load on it. I have no idea what the actual stroke on the bearing is and really don't care since it works perfect with travel room to spare as the clutch wears. All I would need to do at some point to keep the engage/disengage point the same is turn the master pushrod in as the clutch wears. Instead of spending a bunch of time trying to overcalculate everything, just hook everything up, adjust it and see how it works and make a change is needed after testing it. No math needed to measure pedal force, since I can just feel it and it is easy to push. I've driven a few cars with stiff clutch pedals and know what that feels like without any calculations. The clutch I'm using is a stock 10.5-inch diaphragm with the fingers bent on the ends, which is designed for a hydraulic release bearing. Also using a lightweight L-88 flywheel that I think is around 18 lbs.