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Both upper and lower ball joint pins point down on a 55-57.

???? What makes you think that?

Some get by without one, but usually you want a disc/drum combination valve that is a clone of the 71-72 Chevelle one. That's what most of the places that sell brake conversion parts sell anyway, so...

The engine crankshaft/transmission output shaft should be 4° down in back relative to a level main frame rail. The fan should be parallel to the radiator support when this is the case.

Question for you.

Is the front of the engine too high? or is the transmission too low? Check that out. Much easier to raise the transmission if need be.

You should either have pushrod guide plates or guided rocker arms. That determines the centering of the rocker arm on the valve.

You may need to straighten the area where the bushings pass through. A vice and big crescent wrench are good tools for that.

The pinion nut's tightness or lack of it doesn't affect the gear mesh, especially the lash. Its only effect is on pinion bearing preload.

What markm said.

The only other thing you could do is get a new crush sleeve and set it up per the shop manual.

The cowl on all 57s is the same including Nomads. And it's different from 55-56.

So you remove the CC with a razor blade. Then you still have to deal with the base coast, then repaint using base and clear.

Edelbrock has a tuning guide for their carbs showing the relationship and dimensions of the metering rods and jets. It is available online.

Unfortunately, if your clear coat is falling off, it's time to start over with a complete repaint.

Yes they did.

Before checking the starter, check the battery.

East Coast Chevy should have what you need.

Stock system for a 55 vents both ways.

Depends on a couple of things. If you have aftermarket upper control arms you might be able to get a wrench on the bolt head. Also you could tack weld the bolt head to the frame.

Simply said, your "vented cap" is not venting.

That would be correct.

A 7" single diaphragm booster is pretty weak, almost no boost. A double diaphragm 7" would be only a slight improvement. An 8" double diaphragm booster is what you need.

Rear disc will be only...

Looks pretty darned good.

The only thing I'd add as a goal is to have 1/4° more caster on the passenger side. This would compensate for the typical crown in the road.

It is normal to be able to remove the key from the ignition switch with it in any position.

You definitely have "metric". Metric was used on early 80s Malibu and similar cars, as well as many years of S10 pickups and similar vehicles.

It doesn't surprise that some had SAE threads on...

I would speculate that there is more than one bellhousing casting number that works. But I don't know that for sure.