Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 98

Thread: Nerd Rods chassis-DIY 1955 2DR Hardtop

  1. #11
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Member #:1807
    Posts
    37
    She sent it, theirs an album that's titled Jason's 55 Chevy frame
    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Send me an invite to her FB account. Nick Prime in Forney, TX

  2. #12
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,854
    The rear knuckle is supposed to sit slightly behind the center section. In other words, the halfshafts point outward and slightly back.

    IMO this is the problem with trying to build a frame without a jig...you never know where things are going to end up. Also, I never have liked bolt-in k-members. GM used them, but they had braces in front and behind of the k-member to the frame.

    Hope it all works out for you. I would check the 115" wheelbase and the squareness and flatness of the frame before I did anything else.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #13
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:1653
    Location
    De Queen, AR
    Posts
    4,157
    Looking very nice Jason. What are the two items, top and bottom, bolted to the front of the chassis? Is this some type of jig to locate members prior to welding?
    Last edited by NickP; 08-01-2013 at 08:20 PM.

  4. #14
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Member #:1807
    Posts
    37
    A drawing would great! when I bought the frame Russell was still working on drawings but I still haven't seen them, not saying he's not helpful but I prefer drawings
    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Is something not lining up? Somewhere on the chassis, there should be some type of reference mark or set of marks that shows where the front axle CL is or a relationship to it. On GM's tri five chassis there are a set of holes that lie under the upper control arms forming the gage hole centerline. I doubt there is such a reference on your chassis but if there is, the front axle center line is two inches toward the rear and 117" to the rear from that lies the rear axle centerline. Let us help you out on this. Some here know the drawings by heart. I'm unfamiliar with your frame and its design but as a simple reference, from the center line of the lower radiator crossmember it's 13.380" to the front axle centerline. I have the dims on AutoCAD if you need.

  5. #15
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Member #:1807
    Posts
    37
    Yes the kit came with a few jigs and a ton of pieces I've done more work on since those pictures, plan to update Facebook tomorrow
    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Looking very nice Jason. What are the two items, top and bottom, bolted to the front of the chassis? Is this some type of jig to locate members prior to welding?

  6. #16
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:1653
    Location
    De Queen, AR
    Posts
    4,157
    Quote Originally Posted by JJ55 View Post
    A drawing would great! when I bought the frame Russell was still working on drawings but I still haven't seen them, not saying he's not helpful but I prefer drawings
    Do you have AutoCAD or do you want it in a ".pdf"? email address? Please remember, all my drawing shown is x and y Dims, no z and no placement of any C4 suspension parts.
    Last edited by NickP; 08-01-2013 at 08:25 PM.

  7. #17
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,854
    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Somewhere on the chassis, there should be some type of reference mark or set of marks that shows where the front axle CL is or a relationship to it. On GM's tri five chassis there are a set of holes that lie under the upper control arms forming the gage hole centerline.
    We cut that datum hole off of our conversion frames, but we use the bumper bolt holes for reference locations, as they were specified in the GM drawings from the datum. They are actually pretty accurate, more so than the body mounts since they're punched into the frame rails along with the other features.

    Some here know the drawings by heart.
    I almost do.

    Without bumper bolt holes, datum holes, or anything else to go off of maybe the best bet is the body mounts and radiator support. It's kinda hard to accurately measure the axle locations, but it can be done with a plumb bob and marks on the floor. If it's off, I would suspect more things wrong with the frame.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #18
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:1653
    Location
    De Queen, AR
    Posts
    4,157
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    We cut that datum hole off of our conversion frames, but we use the bumper bolt holes for reference locations, as they were specified in the GM drawings from the datum. They are actually pretty accurate, more so than the body mounts since they're punched into the frame rails along with the other features.



    I almost do.

    Without bumper bolt holes, datum holes, or anything else to go off of maybe the best bet is the body mounts and radiator support. It's kinda hard to accurately measure the axle locations, but it can be done with a plumb bob and marks on the floor. If it's off, I would suspect more things wrong with the frame.
    That's what bothers me too Laszlo, no reference points to go from.

  9. #19
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Member #:1807
    Posts
    37
    The frame is square and flat! great that I had a 6'X 12'x 2" thick machine ground table to build it on but not 100% sure on the wheelbase, I'm hanging the front suspension tomorrow afternoon. I welded my K member in place, no bolts
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    The rear knuckle is supposed to sit slightly behind the center section. In other words, the halfshafts point outward and slightly back.

    IMO this is the problem with trying to build a frame without a jig...you never know where things are going to end up. Also, I never have liked bolt-in k-members. GM used them, but they had braces in front and behind of the k-member to the frame.

    Hope it all works out for you. I would check the 115" wheelbase and the squareness and flatness of the frame before I did anything else.

  10. #20
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013

    Member #:1807
    Posts
    37
    Pdf please, Jason.Johnson@srpnet.com
    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    Do you have AutoCAD or do you want it in a ".pdf"? email address? Please remember, all my drawing shown is x and y Dims, no z and no placement of any C4 suspension parts.

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •