I would like to hear from everyone what is a good product that has been used to stop rust on frames and under side of body without sandblasting? Thanks
I would like to hear from everyone what is a good product that has been used to stop rust on frames and under side of body without sandblasting? Thanks
I've used Eastwoods rust encapsulator and/or POR 15 with good looking results.
RUST is a 4-letter word. IMO if you don't get rid of it, it will continue. I think these "rust coverters" and "rust encapsulators" work to some extent. But chemically they can only do so much. I just can't see them getting down to the interface between the rust and the base steel, and if they don't how do they stop the rust?
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I agree with Laszlo, The other issue I have is this; what you see on the outside of the frame is bound to be going on the inside of the frame, or at least it would seem logical. Presently, I have three customer cars in the shop. Every time I think I have the rust issues licked, I find more. At present count, on one vehicle I am at 72% sheetmetal replacement. I do however use POR to cover the new metal going in. I am also looking for a company to dip the body in something like what Ford used, then finish out the remainder of the metal work prior to final body work. I know there is a company in Georgia that has this service but it's a long road trip.
My philosophy on surface rust is that if I'm going to sandblast or otherwise get the steel to "white metal" I am going to primer with epoxy primer and go from there. This is what I prefer to do.
If you are not going to go to "white metal" then you should consider POR15 type products. Consider them temporary.
I don't worry about the inside of the frame or inside of the body. If it was a concern - like the frame being buried in mud in a field - and with obvious issues - I'd just have to find another one - you aren't going to stop one this bad. The factory didn't coat or paint the inside, and non rust belt cars made it this long - they're going to outlast my ownership.
I agree Rick....I don't worry about the inside of the frames. Every one I've cut into is still thick as new. I used Rust Bullet inside my doors, because I couldn't get to most of it to get the surface rust out...and that's all there was. I believe POR15 isn't recommended over clean metal, but Rust Bullet is.
If I had my "perfect" way of doing things, I would dip the body and frame and do all the metal work on them that I wanted to do. Then I would dip them again and do the EDP primer over the entire body and frame, inside all the nooks and crannies. Then I would finish them. That way everything is protected inside and out. But you'd have to own a dip shop to afford a process like that!
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax