Master cylinder

[seant]

Hello everyone. I know this question has been asked a lot,but Ithis is my first attempt to build a car. I have a 56 Bel Air and need opinions on what master cylinder to use. I have to stay with drum brakes and don't have money for a power brake system. Would like to use newer than the old 56 stock cylinder. Thanks for your help

[markm]

If you are staying with drums and want to upgrade to a dual master I would consider a late 60s full size Chevy without PB.

[JT56]

If you are staying with drums and want to upgrade to a dual master I would consider a late 60s full size Chevy without PB.

Should have a 1" bore on the mastercylinder too.

[5Clint7]

67-69 Chevelle, Nova & Camaro Drum – Drum master cyl. Direct bolt on, on two bottom bolts. The rear port (9/16-18) goes to the front brakes. The front port (1/2-20) goes to the rear brakes.
For drum brakes you need 10 psi residual valves in both ports.
Raybestos Master Cyl. Drum-Drum Part # MC36233
Bendix Master Cyl. Drum-Drum Part # 11505
Advance Auto Master Cyl Drum-Drum # 10-1505 $14.95
Non power brake M/C 15/16 or 1” bore
The 1/2"-20 is the "standard" thread size for a 5/16" inverted flare connection. Just ask for a 5/16"-1/4" adapter (Weatherhead part #7829)
The 9/16"-18 to 1/4" is a little more of an oddball, but most NAPA stores carry it (Weatherhead part #7908).
5/16”-3/16” adapter ( Weatherhead part # 7909)
Weatherhead 7908 = Edelmann 258403 Everco 7833 Imperial 90171= 9/16-18 Thread ¼ tube
Weatherhead 7829 = Edelmann 258450 Everco 7832 Imperial 90173 = ½-20 Thread ¼ tube
Weatherhead 7909 = Edelmann 258350 Imperial 90170 = 1/2-20 Thread 3/16 tube
Weatherhead 7897 Imperial 90161 = ½-20 Thread 3/16 tube
Weatherhead 7911= Edelmann 258302 Imperial 90162 = 9/16-18 Thread 3/16 tube

[warren57]

Hello everyone. I know this question has been asked a lot,but Ithis is my first attempt to build a car. I have a 56 Bel Air and need opinions on what master cylinder to use. I have to stay with drum brakes and don't have money for a power brake system. Would like to use newer than the old 56 stock cylinder. Thanks for your help

seant,
My 57 had a dual manual cylinder (disk/drum) when I got the car (rear mount calipers). I upgraded (well maybe an upgrade!) to a power unit and installed a new disk assembly with front mount calipers... I still have the old cylinder and the front disk conversion stuff (except I tossed the rotors they are cheap at NAPA).
They are yours for free if you want to pay shipping from Denver, CO.
Let me know.... that offer goes for any of our members here.
Warren

[Eds56]

Hello All,

I hope it's okay to just add questions to this thread......rather than starting a new one. As most of my concerns are already answered here.

I also have a 56 BA, that currently has 4 wheel manual drum brakes. For safety reasons, i too would like to change to a dual master cylinder. I will likely use the one from Advance (# 10-1505), as suggested in the earlier post from 5clint7 (thank you for the list).

Hope i'm correct on this, but the task seems to be ---- install new dual MC, adapt / connect existing brake line to rear port of MC for front brakes, connect new line to other port of MC and route over to the passenger side frame and adapt / connect to the existing line to going to rear brakes, plug / cap the (now open) hole in existing junction block @ passenger frame (which is now for front brakes only). Bleed brakes and enjoy!

Now for my questions--

Probably a dumb ? but gotta ask ----- the 10psi residual valves?? is this made into the suggested MC or something else to purchase? in other words, NO separate proportion valve needed ??
what size and length of brake line do i need to run from MC to passenger side rear brake connection (near junction block)?
Is there any benifit to a dual MC (Other than safety) ---- such as better braking??
Are any changes needed on the rod that connects from MC to brake pedal?


Thanks in advance & have a Blessed day,
Ed

[Rick_L]

The residual valve is SUPPOSED to be built in to the master cylinder for the applications suggested. In many brands it's not. To check, probe the outlet ports with the blank end of a small drill bit. If you feel a rubber part directly under the brass cone seat for the line, that's the residual valve. If the drill bit goes in a long way and you feel metal, it's not there. A Raybestos MK472 rebuild kit has them, and can be used to add them to any m/c without them.

You don't need a proportioning valve, but I would highly recommend a brake line distribution block for a 67 Camaro/Chevelle/Nova. This has a shuttle valve that blocks fluid to one end of the system if that end has a big leak. You don't absolutely have to have this, but you will have a higher pedal and a better chance of stopping if one end of the system ever fails.

The size of the line can be either 3/16" or 1/4". Choose the size that fits what you are trying to connect up. This minimizes extra adapters.

There is no other benefit to a dual master cylinder. Normal stopping will be unaffected.

The recommended master cylinder will work with the stock pushrod.

[Troy]

Wow 5Clint7 thanks for this info!!! I've been wanting to do this conversion to my '55 for a while, now I have no excuse.

[Eds56]

Thank You Rick,

Very useful info & i appreciate it.

I think making this change would be an improvement over what i have currently......Ultimately, i really want to add power brakes at some point. But will cross that bridge later.

[5Clint7]

My master cyl. Didn’t have the proportional valves. I bought the Raybestos MK472 kit at Amazon. Use the 2 self-taping screws supplied in the kit to remove the 2 brass inserts. Put a flat washer over the port and put the screw thru the hole in the washer into the insert.This will pull out the insert. Install the springs and rubber valves. To install the new inserts , use a flare nut of the appropriate size to press in the inserts.