You are correct, the hose port is the difference.
Usually the earlier pieces are preferred.
You are correct, the hose port is the difference.
Usually the earlier pieces are preferred.
Will one of the external (in-line type) 10psi residual valves work just as good? The reason I ask, Is if I go with this type now then later on when I switch to Power booster with 1 1/8" bore MC, i'll not have to revisit this issue. Sounds like they do the same thing, just double checking.
You're correct, either way will work.
Rick, While we're on the subject of brakes. Who makes the pre bent brake line kit for restorations?
Slowfinger, I'm not the guy to ask. There are many sources for pre bent tubing, and I'm sure they are not all created equally. But I have no recommendations, as my needs are for custom bent tubing, and I take care of that myself.
You do not want a residual valve in a disc brake line, unless the master cylinder is below the calipers, in which case you'd want a 2 psi valve not a 10 psi valve.I think you would only want the residual valve in the drum line, not sure if it is a good idea in the front disc brake line as it can keep the pads against the rotor? I'm not 100% sure on that though.
Finally got all my parts and have installed as listed below.
1.) 81 Rear Trans Am rotors -- 22.00ea ebay
2.) Calipers for 72 Chevy Bel Air 18-4035 & 4036 ----13.99ea @ AdvanceAuto
3.) Rubber Brake Hose for 72 Chevelle -- BH73242-- 9.99ea
4.) Already had new hubs / bearings ---- So removed 68 Impalla hubs & had the OD & lead in center machined down (est. 0.1000") to fit the 81 Rear Trans Am rotors. FREE
5.) Replaced stock lug Studs with longer ones. I used Dorman 610.259 which are 1.750" long. --- 16.85 for set of 10 off Ebay.
6.) Order disc brake bracket kit from Perforamance Online Parts @ 109.00 ----- the same bracket set was 129. from CPP. Both OVER Priced in my opinion, as these were a mere 60.00 not too long ago. SO this cost was the hardest to swallow, considering that the brackets have to be "massaged to fit"
7.) All in all this was still cheaper than the ready made kit which totals $480.00 (including shipping).
8.) Plan jane Brake Pads -- these were FREE --- Old stock --- open box from friend at part store and THIS may be contributing to a problem i'm having.....which i will get to later ( i need to re-bleed and go over everything before jumping the gun...bottom line, i do NOT LIKE my pedal,,,,seems soft and or spongy, which i hope is only air).
In addition to the above, CPP hooked me up with a Corvette Style 1" bore Dual Master Cyclinder kit with Proportion valve and mounting Bracket for less than $90.00 I then purchased a 5ft piece of 1/4" brake line and the needed fittings (as outlined on page 1), connected the existing line to the front port on prop valve (had to use 1/4" adapter).... then connected the 5ft piece to the rear port and routed it over to passenger side frame, plugged now open T-connection and connected the new line to the existing line with 3/16 to 1/4 adapter and union.
SORRY for the long post......... But, I hope this helps the next person, by having it all listed in one spot.
Nice job Ed! I doubt the soft pedal has anything to do with the pads.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I agree with Cnut on the soft pedal, it's not the pads.
What kind of "massaging" did you have to do?