Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 66

Thread: Master cylinder

  1. #51
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,672
    You are correct, the hose port is the difference.

    Usually the earlier pieces are preferred.

  2. #52
    Registered Member Eds56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014

    Member #:2285
    Location
    Northwest GA
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    A Raybestos MK472 rebuild kit has them, and can be used to add them to any m/c without them.
    Will one of the external (in-line type) 10psi residual valves work just as good? The reason I ask, Is if I go with this type now then later on when I switch to Power booster with 1 1/8" bore MC, i'll not have to revisit this issue. Sounds like they do the same thing, just double checking.

  3. #53
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,672
    You're correct, either way will work.

  4. #54
    Registered Member slowfinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013

    Member #:1761
    Location
    near chicago
    Posts
    78
    Rick, While we're on the subject of brakes. Who makes the pre bent brake line kit for restorations?

  5. #55
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,672
    Slowfinger, I'm not the guy to ask. There are many sources for pre bent tubing, and I'm sure they are not all created equally. But I have no recommendations, as my needs are for custom bent tubing, and I take care of that myself.

  6. #56
    Senior Member bobbybelair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015

    Member #:2670
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    116
    Quote Originally Posted by Eds56 View Post
    Will one of the external (in-line type) 10psi residual valves work just as good? The reason I ask, Is if I go with this type now then later on when I switch to Power booster with 1 1/8" bore MC, i'll not have to revisit this issue. Sounds like they do the same thing, just double checking.
    I think you would only want the residual valve in the drum line, not sure if it is a good idea in the front disc brake line as it can keep the pads against the rotor? I'm not 100% sure on that though.

  7. #57
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,672
    I think you would only want the residual valve in the drum line, not sure if it is a good idea in the front disc brake line as it can keep the pads against the rotor? I'm not 100% sure on that though.
    You do not want a residual valve in a disc brake line, unless the master cylinder is below the calipers, in which case you'd want a 2 psi valve not a 10 psi valve.

  8. #58
    Registered Member Eds56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014

    Member #:2285
    Location
    Northwest GA
    Posts
    91
    Finally got all my parts and have installed as listed below.
    1.) 81 Rear Trans Am rotors -- 22.00ea ebay
    2.) Calipers for 72 Chevy Bel Air 18-4035 & 4036 ----13.99ea @ AdvanceAuto
    3.) Rubber Brake Hose for 72 Chevelle -- BH73242-- 9.99ea
    4.) Already had new hubs / bearings ---- So removed 68 Impalla hubs & had the OD & lead in center machined down (est. 0.1000") to fit the 81 Rear Trans Am rotors. FREE
    5.) Replaced stock lug Studs with longer ones. I used Dorman 610.259 which are 1.750" long. --- 16.85 for set of 10 off Ebay.
    6.) Order disc brake bracket kit from Perforamance Online Parts @ 109.00 ----- the same bracket set was 129. from CPP. Both OVER Priced in my opinion, as these were a mere 60.00 not too long ago. SO this cost was the hardest to swallow, considering that the brackets have to be "massaged to fit"
    7.) All in all this was still cheaper than the ready made kit which totals $480.00 (including shipping).
    8.) Plan jane Brake Pads -- these were FREE --- Old stock --- open box from friend at part store and THIS may be contributing to a problem i'm having.....which i will get to later ( i need to re-bleed and go over everything before jumping the gun...bottom line, i do NOT LIKE my pedal,,,,seems soft and or spongy, which i hope is only air).

    In addition to the above, CPP hooked me up with a Corvette Style 1" bore Dual Master Cyclinder kit with Proportion valve and mounting Bracket for less than $90.00 I then purchased a 5ft piece of 1/4" brake line and the needed fittings (as outlined on page 1), connected the existing line to the front port on prop valve (had to use 1/4" adapter).... then connected the 5ft piece to the rear port and routed it over to passenger side frame, plugged now open T-connection and connected the new line to the existing line with 3/16 to 1/4 adapter and union.

    SORRY for the long post......... But, I hope this helps the next person, by having it all listed in one spot.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #59
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,850
    Nice job Ed! I doubt the soft pedal has anything to do with the pads.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #60
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,672
    I agree with Cnut on the soft pedal, it's not the pads.

    What kind of "massaging" did you have to do?

Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •