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Thread: Hydro boost brake boster question

  1. #21
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    I am back to the build part that has me hooking up all of the parts that I have been accumulating all winter. I am now hooking up the hydra-boost system where I formerly had a vacuum booster.
    When I previously installed the vacuum unit, I had to drill another hole in the brake pedal arm. Now that I install the hydra-boost unit, do I use the original hole or the hole I made for the vacuum system?
    The original seems to line up better. The lower hole has the rod dragging the housing as the pedal goes full stroke. I think that the original would have no interference.
    Any Input appreciated.

  2. #22
    Registered Member 56-210Sedan's Avatar
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    From all the one's i have seen done the original hole lines up the best, but i have never seen anyone have to move it to another hole other then the original spot.
    55 Belair 2dr Sedan 350/350 loving every minute of it.
    56-210 2dr Sedan c4 front/rear suspension, and not sure when the ride will roll.
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  3. #23
    Registered Member Maddog's Avatar
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    iS THE HYDROBOOST SITTING LEVEL OR AT AN ANGLE? if LEVEL USE UPPER (ORIGINAL) HOLE

  4. #24
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Mine lined up best with the original hole in the brake arm before I decided to go another route. The pushrod ends up being pretty short, so it needs to line up well. You can use a larger bore master cylinder if you get too much pedal travel, since the booster is very effective. It all depends on what brake calipers you have.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  5. #25
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    It is level. The original hole seems to line up better.
    Was there a reason for the lower hole other than line up?
    I always thought that it had to do with leverage or stroke of the pedal.

  6. #26
    Registered Member Maddog's Avatar
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    POWER BOOSTER WAS DESIGNED USING A DIFFERENT PEDAL RATIO, THE RATIO IS CHANGED BY MOVING THE PIVOT POINT ON THE PEDAL ARM

  7. #27
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    Went out this evening and had to shorten the linkage to allow me to use the original hole. It all fits better and looks and feels better.
    I hate the hassle of doing and re-doing, but that is the name of this game. You have to keep at it until you get it right.
    Thanks for the help.

  8. #28
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    I mounted mine 1/2" down. The idea behind that was to be able to use either the stock pedal ratio of 6:1 or a modified pedal ratio of 4:1 (clevis hole in the pedal arm 1" down) with only a little bit of angularity on either. We'll see how it works out.

  9. #29
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    On mine 1" down had the rod hanging up on the housing when the stroke had the pedal nearing the floor (which you probably would never encounter), but it did get to the point that the rod hit solid against the housing instead of bottoming out the
    MC piston.
    1/2" will probably be OK, but I would look it over real closely.

  10. #30
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    I did this conversion many years ago on my 57 so forgive me if I can't remember all the info. I bought a hydrobooster from a used 1 ton GM box truck (like a frito lays truck). The brake arm was adjustable so it basically was a straight install and no modifications to the brake pedal was required. I attached a 70's Vette mastercylinder, plumbed it, installed a PS pump with the double ports and was done. Stops great and I spent more on the stainless lines than I did the hydrobooster. My build is on another site. Oh the bracket, I took a 1/4" plate of steel and cut the shape I needed out, then drilled the holes for the stock bolt hole locations. Installed the bolts, cut the heads off and welded them...tada, custom one off hydroboost bracket.
    Josh

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