wagon progress

[Rick_L]

markm is right, a bent housing doesn't cause runout. An indicator reading will be steady and always off the same amount. A bent axle flange would cause runout, as would a bent wheel.

I don't think a bent housing would cause a significantly increased bearing load. The extra load would be taken by the other end of the axle, but there is already a significant load there and it wouldn't change much.

This is with fractional degrees of error. The Nascar cars use a special arrangement of a full floating hub to allow several degrees of camber. Those parts have to be really strong to avoid breakage. They are also subject to the extra loading of banked tracks and of 900 hp x 4 corners x 500 laps or miles.

Some drag race and more often circle track cars have intentionally bent housings for camber and toe in - sometimes to get neutral under load, sometimes to induce desired toe or camber.

[chevynut]

Cnut, Its nice to see you don't know everything, I have had hours of lecturing on this topic by an old school machinist/welder/ drag racer/ drag strip owner.

If you read my post you would understand that I thought he was turning the axle, not the housing. There's no description of exactly what he was doing, and it looked to me like he was turning the wheel. Of course you would be talking to an "old school" machinist, anyone born after the 60's doesn't know anything. LOL!

Bottom line is a bent housing or flange won't cause a wheel to wobble. You shouldn't have to get a lecture by a machinist to understand that.

[chevynut]

markm is right, a bent housing doesn't cause runout.

Mark didn't say that, I did. He didn't use the quotes icon to separate his comments from others.

This is with fractional degrees of error. The Nascar cars use a special arrangement of a full floating hub to allow several degrees of camber. Those parts have to be really strong to avoid breakage. They are also subject to the extra loading of banked tracks and of 900 hp x 4 corners x 500 laps or miles.

Some drag race and more often circle track cars have intentionally bent housings for camber and toe in - sometimes to get neutral under load, sometimes to induce desired toe or camber.

That's what I was asking about above. By welding the pads on the bottom of the housing he induced positive camber in the rear, assuming the flanges were put on straight. Seems to me the weight of the car would negate some of that positive camber, so I'm not sure if there's even a problem. I agree that such a small 1/4 degree misalignment would probably not affect the bearings.

[MP&C]

With the housing stationary and wheels rotated, we did see a bit of fluctuation of about +/- .005 to .010, but it was rather sporadic and not relative to the welded pads. When the tires where stationary and the housing was rotated around, before our heating efforts the runout started at about +/- .050, and was directly related to the welded pad location. At the point the housing was being rotated, the dial indicator remained in the same spot on the wheel, so although the wheel isn't perfect, the reading should have reflected housing issues only. So calling it run out on the wheel is really deceiving as the tire isn't being rotated. More accurately, it is only being used as a tool to indicate better where the shrinking needs to take place.

[Rick_L]

So calling it run out on the wheel is really deceiving as the tire isn't being rotated. More accurately, it is only being used as a tool to indicate better where the shrinking needs to take place.

Yep. Picky bunch aren't we?

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Rocky, they are Heidts components. Lowered and narrowed.

Are they custom then? Just asking I did not see arms offered on their site fir trifives only complete frames for tri fives.
Rocky

[MP&C]

They can be found on Danchuk's website.... Heidt's 1-1/2" narrowed a-arms

[Rick_L]

Those Heidts arms as well as the standard width ones are the standard of the industry for those products. Not that they like others don't have their own issues.

For instance, Earle Williams sells a different Heidts upper arm that uses a stock ball joint but he modifies them for a proper bump stop in extension.

[MP&C]

Well Kyle was mostly on his own tonight as I had some repairs to do on the wife's vehicle..

New U-bolts came in yesterday, they have a pretty good selection on their web site if anyone needs some....



Threads taped off and all the parts media blasted...





Then Kyle got the rear torn down for media blasting as well. Blast cabinet just the right size..

[MP&C]

Getting things ready for the next round of SPI epoxy, here hanging the 9" rear on the multi-purpose rotisserie a-frame..





We had this bare spot after the last time we blocked, and had bumped it a bit with the flat body hammer.



Doesn't look like it did much to rectify the issue, let's look further....



Looks like the rear end of the inside bracket is pushing a bit on the skin, no wonder the hammer didn't do much. Time to find the tool for the job, a pair of crimping pliers for stove pipe/ductwork.....





That should give us some breathing room, and bumped it again with the hammer.

Put the SPI in the paint shaker, should have tapped the lid a bit tighter..



More parts ready for spraying....





After 3 coats of epoxy....















Here's some of the "restraint" methods for painting the small parts....








Here clamps for the tie rod ends are held in a twisted loop..
















I think the fenders should be good for wet sanding after this go round:




.