Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 98 of 102 FirstFirst ... 488896979899100 ... LastLast
Results 971 to 980 of 1014

Thread: wagon progress

  1. #971
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
    I'm curious how you got the LED lights to work in the rear. Mine would not work properly if I had LEDs in the front. Both taillights would flash when I turned on the turn signals. I tried 3 different LED bulbs and they all had issues. I ended up using Sylvania LEDs which were supposed to stop CANBUS errors but they didn't work right either. If I installed incandescents in the front, everything worked as it should. I diagnosed it as a problem with the flasher. In order for the flasher to sense that it needs to start flashing, there's a small current sourced to the lights. That current is enough to turn on the taillights when they shouldn't be on. I was getting some back-feeding and cross-feeding through the bulbs. Brake lights worked fine, but the signals didn't. I added two small resistors to the taillights inside the car, and it fixed all the problems.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #972
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    It was just a local test using M12 Milwaukee battery to verify housing wired correctly. Not through fuse box just yet..
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  3. #973
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    It was just a local test using M12 Milwaukee battery to verify housing wired correctly. Not through fuse box just yet..

    Let me know if you have issues when you try the flasher. I am using an EP27 dual flasher made for LEDs. It has both the turn signals and 4 way flashers in one unit. I couldn't figure out why my taillights were acting up so I spent several days troubleshooting the problem.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #974
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    Will do, thanks Laszo!


    Here's the hidden fuel door in action, and why we needed the helicoils for adel clamps to hold the wiring in place....and away from moving parts.




    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UwCy8mKRJFU




    The back end is starting to look like a car again...









    ....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...




    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a-8Nmkh_bmQ




    A functional test of the steering bits...




    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGSptHK1WBc




    For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....









    But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
























    And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues









    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  5. #975
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013

    Member #:1723
    Location
    Franktown, CO
    Posts
    597
    Nice wagon progress! Way cool, and in the weeds!

  6. #976
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    Thanks!!


    Some additional parts for painting, we had media blasted the door latch and tailgate latch pull rods, as well as the end clips. The rods didn't have much option for securing for paint, so we opted for some rare earth magnets screwed to the paint stand. We'd paint one side, let it flash, rotate 180*, and spray the other side. That's our plan...














    Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.









    We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.














    I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..




    Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.














    So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..









    https://youtu.be/5sTsOj_Bqd8




    much better:














    more to come...
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  7. #977
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    A few months back we had received some newly polished stainless spears (side trim) for the 55 wagon. Part of the payment was to fabricate a "factory delete" plate for the spare tire well of a 55 chevy in gasser form. He wanted to mimic the factory X pattern that is located along the centerline of the trunk. We recently got this done, and with as-installed pictures received, it seems a good time to post this as well. We had tried a sample using the bead roller, and also had made a die set for the Lennox that would produce both sides at once. Neither worked well at all. I didn't care for the bead roller version much at all since we would be relying on self guiding and the possibility of line deviation. So we opted for a set of offset dies that I had for the Lennox, and producing each side individually. The Lennox works well because the linear slide lets us clamp the part and produce multiple parallel embossings with good accuracy.





    A corking tool made from delrin was used to dress up the ends





    As primed by the owner... Yes, that is Wisconsin farmland.








    Installed...








    So there you have it, a rare OEM spare tire delete plate.
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  8. #978
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:530
    Location
    Santa Clarita, CA
    Posts
    1,793
    Looks like it was supposed to be there from the factory. nice work!
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  9. #979
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    Thanks!!


    The boss lady had picked up a vintage three-shelved stand a while back, and we had been tripping over the parts in the media blast cabinet.











    After media blasting they were sent off to The Shop at Shorty's for a powder coat finish. He had some pastel green in stock so we went with that. Here's the preview picture he sent:





    We will get the parts picked up this week. We already ordered new stainless hardware in slotted screws and square nuts for the assembly. Next, the casters seemed in good condition but needed a refinish as well. So the OEM rivets were drilled out so the metal housing could get a Cerakote treatment in gun metal grey. In order to reassemble without rivets we made some faux rivets that will make use of 1/4-20 threads and sleeve retainer loctite to keep things together.











    A tap handle in the vise was used to clamp the "rivet" while it was threaded..











    The nuts were rounded as well, leaving just enough flat for assembly, to mimic the rounded head rivet as well. Threads trimmed to size and the parts were then polished.








    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  10. #980
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Member #:2017
    Location
    Southern MD
    Posts
    1,290
    We picked up the powder coated parts from The Shop at Shorty's, for reassembly we had ordered some replacement slotted oval head screws and square nuts in stainless so we could polish them up a bit for a bit of bling.








    And no job is complete without undergoing the close scrutiny of the quality control inspector...








    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

Page 98 of 102 FirstFirst ... 488896979899100 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •