The final teardown begins

[chevynut]

Placing that connection hardware on top of the frame (below the floor) seems like it would be tough to get wrenches in there for adjusting it?

There's actually quite a bit of room above the frame in that location, that's why I wanted it to end up there. I think you have about 2 1/2-3" of room above the frame. That should be enough for adjustments....I hope. I shouldn't have to adjust it very often.

Did you connect using the stock rear corvette ebrake cables?

No, I bought the universal rear kit from Lokar and their front kit that works with their pedal.

[chevynut]

Paul, Lokar makes all the stuff to do that.

Don't know why my pics and links don't work...



http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebr...able-main.html
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebr...cables-pn.html

[Justin@ECP]

Can't wait to see it painted

[chevynut]

I got the upper rear shock mount points moved. I wanted to move them outboard some to decrease the shock angle to around 25 degrees or less at ride height, which allows me to use a lower spring rate. But as we all know, one thing leads to another. To move them out where I wanted them, the top of the shock interfered with the brake line on the driver's side (it used to go under the crossmember), and with the fuel lines on the passenger side. So I had to move my fuel lines up a tad (glad the bracket was only tacked) and I rotated the brake line tee 90 degrees and will have to re-route the brake line a little. Then I will have to build new lower shock mounts when I get to that point. Right now I'm focusing on frame modifications to get the frame to paint.

I am also re-assembling my exhaust to see if I need any more hangers. The tailpipes are connected to the header collectors and I don't have any hangers until the rear shock crossmember. I feel that maybe I need a pair in the transmission crossmember area, ahead of the mufflers.

This is before:

20070327_225.jpg

This is after:

20150320_009.jpg

I'm also a little concerned that my brake line through-frame fittings are too close to the calipers to make the hoses work, but I'm not sure what to do about it.

[chevynut]

Here's my brake line dilemma. The through-frame fitting ended up being too close to the caliper port. I can't figure out a clean, safe way to attach a -3AN brake hose. The tire is almost up against the C4 dogbones, so there's very little room for a hose.

20061224_336.jpg Picture 618.jpg 20070203_441.jpg

I need an angled banjo or hose end at the caliper and a 90-degree hose end at the frame no matter how I do it. The hose has to have enough slack for suspension travel, and to fully extend the shock for tire removal. I'm kinda thinking it makes more sense to move the fitting behind the axle bumper and make a large loop over it to the caliper. My tubs are even with the frame rails, so they're not in the way.

I thought about going under the frame, but I think that makes things worse. Any thoughts?

[MP&C]

Use a line with a 90* fitting, and place your bulkhead fitting in between the two dogbones. They will protect the line from tire rub (if dimensions work out) and everything should move in unison.

[chevynut]

Robert, the brake hoses I've seen with a 90 degree fitting stick out a long ways. I'm not sure there's room for it between the upper dogbone and the frame. Are you suggesting I go outside the dogbone? The tire is really close there. I'll have to post a pic with the tire on.

I have another issue on the front brakes. I am using -4AN lines and need to transition to -3 hose. So far I haven't been able to figure out how to do that. I have a -4AN bulkhead fitting on the outside of the frame now. Ideally I'd need a -3 hose with a -3 nut on one end and -4 nut on the other end, or a bulkhead fitting with -4 on one end and -3 on the other end. I might be able to just use -4 brake hoses.

[NickP]

AME as you may know has a prebent kit for their chassis - looking at how the lines (stainless) run much the same as you have they terminate on the pass side inside of the frame rail with a 90 AN3 down and the hose is underneath from there and directed to the caliper. Driver side does much the same inside the driver rail and t's with it down and under.

[chevynut]

AME as you may know has a prebent kit for their chassis - looking at how the lines (stainless) run much the same as you have they terminate on the pass side inside of the frame rail with a 90 AN3 down and the hose is underneath from there and directed to the caliper. Driver side does much the same inside the driver rail and t's with it down and under.

Nick, do you have a picture? The AME suspension doesn't have the dogbones in the way so it's easier to do like that. I don't want the dogbones hitting the brake lines. Also there's a body mount and a shock crossmember in the way on the inside of the frame. I will need a banjo or a straight 10mm fitting out of the caliper. How have you done this on your C4 frames?

[chevynut]

Here's another pic...

20150322_003.jpg