He uses the stock transverse monoleaf fiberglass springs front and rear.
PS. Since my chassis is going under a Nomad, I asked for the 'heavier' rear spring... but I haven't checked the spring code (but I'm making myself a note to do so)..
He uses the stock transverse monoleaf fiberglass springs front and rear.
PS. Since my chassis is going under a Nomad, I asked for the 'heavier' rear spring... but I haven't checked the spring code (but I'm making myself a note to do so)..
Last edited by BamaNomad; 05-02-2017 at 07:17 PM.
He's using a remote 'boost' unit for the MC.. IIRC, it's a Electroboost unit located under the body. The brakes worked great... very responsive... IIRC, the first couple of times I used the brakes, I had to learn NOT to brake too hard..Originally Posted by chevynut
The wheels are 18x8.5 +56mm and I believe these are the same as the front wheels on a C6. I think he gets his wheels from 'Factory Reproductions'...
Last edited by BamaNomad; 05-02-2017 at 07:16 PM.
As stated in the previous response, he uses a electro-boost unit, but I'm personally considering using a manual MC... I'm assuming if I don't like the effort required, that I'll be able to add a boost unit later...
Last edited by BamaNomad; 05-02-2017 at 07:25 PM.
I don't know the answer to that Rocky; but maybe to eliminate the need for the 'visible' firewall punctures and the clamps on the inner fenders to hold the hoses in place??
PS. i said earlier that he puts the 4L60E in his cars, but that's incorrect.. He uses the newer 4L70E as purchased from GM for the cars he builds turnkey.
It's the ABS Power Brake High Power Master Cylinder that I posted in my prior post. It's similar to the one I have in my Nomad from the same company. Mine is the one with a remote reservoir.
http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ehpm.html
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Cool car for sure. Definitely the right colors!!! Looks like he raised up the rear wheel openings as well to make rear tire removal and replacement easier. That is something I would consider doing when I take mine back apart to do a nicer paint job on the frame and repaint the body. I painted mine in 1988 so it's about due for a repaint.
Brian. I owe you an apology! I 'just realized' this is your thread which I had asked some questions in, but now it looks like my questions/etc has about taken it over! If there is something I can do besides STOP asking my questions in your thread, I will be glad to do it..
Don't worry about it. Not a big deal to me at all!!Brian. I owe you an apology! I 'just realized' this is your thread which I had asked some questions in, but now it looks like my questions/etc has about taken it over! If there is something I can do besides STOP asking my questions in your thread, I will be glad to do it..
I didn't really see it at first, but I really like the raised rear wheel openings as a alternative to the radius ones. I will be keeping the old rear openings off my original quarters for sure, if the body shop ever gets started installing the new quarter panels, after over 3 months of collecting dust. I currently have Billy Dawson's 55 as my background picture for a while.
Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 05-03-2017 at 04:09 PM.
I decided it was time to repaint my roof to get rid of the peeling paint. I had repainted the white on the quarter panels and trunk back in 2005 but left the roof alone at that time as it was still in good shape back then. I painted my car originally back in 1988 with Lucite lacquer. I started having peeling issues in the mid 90's due to not using etch or epoxy primer over the bare metal. I didn't know any better back then and used lacquer primer over the bare metal after a metal prep treatment.Funny thing is the only areas with the problem are where the car is white, the paint is in good shape yet where it is red.
This is what the roof looked like after blowing over it with the air hose.
Back glass window trim removed.
I used a razor blade scraper to remove the white topcoat.
This is what it looked like after scraping off the white top coat. The weird looking areas of the primer is pretty much where the paint was falling off.
The primer that was left behind I sanded off with a DA sander and 80 grit paper. I left a bit of the white at the windshield mldg since I didn't want to remove the windshield to get the mldgs off.
The first coat of paint over the metal this time is House Of Kolor KD 3000 epoxy primer. 2 coats at medium build mix.
After a light sanding ready for a couple of coats of feather fil G2
After a good block sanding of the feather fil.
All ready for sealer and top coat at this point, but that's when Murphy's law showed up. I planed to spay on a coat of House of Kolor as a sealer and then top coat but that didn't go to well. It as a cooler night, about 60 degrees in the shop and I probably should have used the 1.4 mm needle and seat vs the 1.8 mm that was in the gun for the medium build and the feather fil and ended up with runs in the sealer. Then on top of that my air pressure regulator decided it was time to stop working halfway through the job. It started losing pressure after a few seconds of spraying. Turns out is was just to clogged up after 30 some years of use.
So after sanding that mess back out I decided to use my Nason sealer before the Nason Acrylic topcoat a few nights later.
After a coat of sealer and 3 coats of single stage Nason Acyrlic Enamel. I used Enamel vs Urethane to match what I had done back in 2005. When I get to a point I need to repaint the red portions of the car I will most likely use the Urethane on that part of the car. The hood is getting close to needing a repaint due to all the stone chips on the front.
Unmasked but still needing a good cleanup.
Cleaned up and the rear window mldgs back in place. I still need to sand out the top with 1200 grit and finer then buff it out yet but it looks pretty good for now. I want to let the paint cure for a couple of weeks before I do that since since I sprayed 3 coats of the Nason vs the 2 coats the tech sheet states. Not bad for less than 2 weeks worth of work. I didn't want to be in paint jail to long during prime driving season!!
Brian
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