thread size of drain plug 55 nomad fuel tank?

[NickP]

C'nut I always thought that was correct myself as well. Rick only reason I said pre filter is because if I used the drain plug hole there is no type of screen ie pickup shock. I was considering a 120 micron filter canister something like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/krc-4906bl/overview/ I believe it will gravity feed. Aeromotive recommends a 100 micron filter for pre suction side use. As you said the vet filter regulator is the real filter post pump it is rated at 5 microns I believe. I will reconsider using the sender unit for fuel injection. The drain plug just makes it easier to route to the rest of the fuel system. The 55 feed line runs down the passenger side but the LS engines feed on the drivers side. I was planning on mounting the fuel pump and regulator on the rear cross member or passenger frame next to the wheel well and then run high pressure compression fitting flex poly stainless jacketed line to the fuel rail along the drivers side frame. What is the best source for buying an-6 pre length braided fuel line? I want to use it for connecting from the tank to the pump and filter regulator. Or do you just buy it and cut to length yourself? This is all on the low pressure side pre pump. Rockie question I know but I have never used it. My current setup accept for the main feed line from the pump uses all hose barb fittings and high pressure hose from local parts house. Works great and easy to replace but I want a cleaner look this go round.

I use: http://fragolaperformancesystems.com...lon-race-hose/ You can have them made to your specs. Use PTFE hose though.

[Rick_L]

Rocky if you mount the fuel pump that high, you might as well use a stock fuel pickup or the 3/8" one that's a replacement for 2-4 or FI cars.

Better yet, forget all that stuff and get a tank with a pump in it. If you're trying to hold costs down, cheapest one would be the Tanks Inc. setup (Aeromotive sells the same tank with a different pump). I don't think they make one for wagons, but since you have a modified car, you can get rid of the spare well and use a passenger car style tank. That's what C'nut did, though he has a different tank.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Rick, I plan to keep the wheel well and stock tank. I personally like external pumps for ease of service. Only reason i did not go with a c4 rearend kit from Cnut was when i discovered the tank and wheel well have to go. For the most part my nomad want be very moded per say meaning most mods are bolt on and can be undone very easily. Unless Decide to weld a big ole x across the frame lol. Im still undecided about that.

My other thought process was picking up fuel from the bottom might help with fuel stravation on empty ir low tank but sense the tank stores the fuel vertically it naturally should be better at launch than my stock A body tank is. I just keep it full and dontvreally have any issues cept if i play when its 1/4 or so.

i just confirmed the drain plug appears to be 3/8 fine. I will confirm tommorrow. The stinking varnash over came looks like i have to drain tank when pull the plug.

[chevynut]

C'nut I always thought that was correct myself as well.

It is. I don't know why Aeromotive thinks any differently. The only thing with taking it out of the top of the tank is you might have to prime it since the pump probably won't suck air. Once the line is full it won't matter.

I will reconsider using the sender unit for fuel injection. The drain plug just makes it easier to route to the rest of the fuel system.

Wouldn't the drain plug location expose the line to damage a lot more?

run high pressure compression fitting flex poly stainless jacketed line to the fuel rail along the drivers side frame. What is the best source for buying an-6 pre length braided fuel line?

Compression fittings? The braided SS fuel lines are easy to make up yourself with parts from Summit or Jegs. Probably a lot cheaper than buying pre-made too.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

Cnut Im still in the design phase open to plumbing ideas. I started this process considering hanging the fuel pump and reg on the shock bar very close to sending unit. I do this on my cutlass with a bar i welded across the frame the feed and return lines are very short. I have had great success doing it that way to date 50k miles logged. It makes plumbing very easy. But it does not look very tighty and my shock bar exhaust etc space is tight. I'm trying to consider the best route fwd to the drvers side firewall. I see what Rick is saying if I mount the pump and reg on the frame rail in front much lower but I end up on wrong side of car going fwd. Not sure how to cross over. My thought on the drain is yes it is exposed some but very little using a 90 degree fitting at the tank and the stainless flex hose would quickly hide it self along the frame and be fairly short feeding the pump if I located Mounting the reg and pump along the back cross member and or rear frame rail my thoughts are it might look cleaner and be easier to service on the side of the road. It also allows me to run the main pressure line fwd along the drivers frame inboard or out not sure at this point. Mine has an extra cross member in front of the original rear made from 1/4 thick 4 inch C channel welded across for an old trailer hitch.
Im also planning to install a jeep hitch below the frame so the pump could even hang done below cross member and still be protected. As stated I'm all open to plumbing route ideas at this point. Only parts locked in are the wellbro pump and vet regulator.

[Rick_L]

To me it wouldn't be a tough call to modify the floor. That can be put back stock too - but would YOU ever go back from the EFI engine? If a future owner wanted to, they could.

[chevynut]

but would YOU ever go back from the EFI engine? If a future owner wanted to, they could.

I think guys that talk about returning their cars to stock are kidding themselves...it'll never happen. How many 34 Fords were ever converted from hot rods to stock cars? I once kinda fretted over that on my Nomad, but once I got past it I was fine cutting the floor, tubs, and firewall. Certain things are worth leaving stock-looking, but to me a floor isn't one of them.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I'm not saying I will or would ever go back. I won't Carbs suck lol.... But the next guy could if he wants.

My rear floor and tire well are the only thing not rusted on the bottom of this nomad. If I take it out I want have any original metal left lol.

Rick I'm keeping it so original I'm even keep the PG service cover operational LOL.

Honestly when Im done you will be able to pull the 17 inch mags and put a set of white walls and hup caps if you like that style and have a very original looking mad. As long as you dont open the hood or crawl on the ground to look. Thats I all i mean. I might even do it myself from time to time just for fun.

Rick as for the big hole in the floor I thank my buddy & I got carried away with the new plasma toy we aquired. The new floor can probably be split in the middle and clear the trans with minimal modifcation. The spot weld lips at the toe board have to be removed to clear.

[rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017]

I use: http://fragolaperformancesystems.com...lon-race-hose/ You can have them made to your specs. Use PTFE hose though.

Thanks Nick lots of good info there explaining relation of AN to tube size. I bookmarked it for reference.

[chevynut]

Use PTFE hose though.

Actually teflon (PTFE) hose is not necessary for a fuel system. It's typically used where there's high pressure like in power steering or brake systems. It will work but it's more expensive than fuel hose, and the selection of end fittings is very limited. I used Russell stainless braided fuel hose for my flexible fuel lines from the frame to the engine. Everything else is stainless hardline.