Clearance for the power steering box?Originally Posted by chevynut
Clearance for the power steering box?
Bitchin you're probably correct. Wonder why they couldn't have bent the tube differently. I had a set of BBC headers that cleared the box.
Just thought I would share my experience with the hooker ls swap longtubes. They came coated (black "darkside" coating), they do have the flat spot on the primary and come with o2 bungs welded in place. The coating left a lot to be desired, it scratches very easily, and actually had spots where it had worn off in shipping. I actually returned them becasuse I thought they were painted, and I have bought headers both coated and uncoated in the past. Also, one of the collectors was dented in a bit on the first set. I had ordered them from summit, and they swapped them out no problem. Customer service basically told me the darkside coating wasn't very durable lol. As long as the fit is good though, I'll be happy.
How long is your steering column CNut? I'm starting to look at them now.Fladiver, keep in mind that the Unisteer rack and pinion bolts to the REAR of the stock tri5 crossmember and sits where the drag link normally would sit. So the #1 tube isn't involved. The C4 rack is in FRONT of the crossmember, and the steering shaft has to clear the exhaust and engine mount. I usually tell guys to work out their exhaust first while taking into account the steering shaft, then select a column length that works last. That's based on experience doing my own. In retrospect I wish I'd used Doug's headers instead of my Earle Williams headers. I think they work better with this setup and the #7 tube doesn't make that weird bend. I've recommended them to other guys with BBCs.
Bluegrass, my steering column is a Flaming River 35" one. It's the longest they make and I just used it to get the steering link forward enough to clear the #1 tube. Depending on the design of the headers you may not need it that long. I forgot that in the pic of the blue frame with the BBC we set the engine back quite a bit to lower it behind the rack. Those are Doug's headers on that one...mine are Earle Williams'.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Today I bolted a set of Hooker Super Comp 2289's onto an LS mock-up engine set up in one of our C4 chassis. The 2289s are made for an LS swap into a 68-72 Chevelle, same as the Kooks application that another customer used. We decided to try them on this frame because they look like the #1 and #3 tubes were tucked in nicely and don't have the flat plate on the #3 tube. Also, they're quite a bit less costly than the $1200 stainless Kooks headers.
Everything looks great and there's a lot of clearance, but we do have one issue with them. The driver's side collector is just about perfectly positioned and is about 3/8" below the top of the frame. For some reason, the passenger side collector is about 3/8" ABOVE the top of the frame. It's hard to see it in the pic from the rear, but the angle is sitting on the frame on the driver's side and on top of the collector on the passenger side. The lighting makes it difficult to see the problem, but you can see the difference in height. Also, this frame has a 2" front drop instead of our standard 3" so the engine is sitting lower than it would in the 3" front drop frame. Seems like the Chevelle is a bit shorter vertically than a tri5.
I think this could be corrected by pushing the collector down and bending the header slightly, but I don't know if it can be done with ceramic coated headers without damaging the ceramic coating. I actually did this with my BBC Earle Williams headers to make them fit my application better.
One other issue might be the positioning of the O2 sensor bungs. I am not positive there's enough clearance between the collector and frame. It's weird that Holley tells you to put the sensors pointing UPWARD at a 10 degree angle or more, but Hooker (owned by Holley) doesn't do it on their headers.
Here's some pics of the 2289's.
Last edited by chevynut; 01-03-2016 at 08:29 PM.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
why won't the 2292 clear for stock frame with column shift, they anyone know,wanted to use with my LS6 with 700r4. Does anyone else make longtubes for 55-57 besides Doug's shorty
that flat spot on #3 is for LS motor with stock frame and stock or 605 steering box they claim you cannot use column shift with these headers
I received my Hooker 2292 headers today. They had O2 bungs placed on a horizontal plane as you describe. The driver side header has the bung on the outboard side, and the passenger side bung is on the inboard side. ???? I was actually expecting them not to have any bungs, as the images on the Holley website don't show any. I may have even called to verify that.One other issue might be the positioning of the O2 sensor bungs. I am not positive there's enough clearance between the collector and frame. It's weird that Holley tells you to put the sensors pointing UPWARD at a 10 degree angle or more, but Hooker (owned by Holley) doesn't do it on their headers.
My Williams headers have the bungs at 10 degrees above horizontal as Holley and GM suggest. And inboard.
Looks like the Chevelle headers have plenty of clearance for the O2 sensor and wiring on the outboard side. I guess we'll see what works and works best when I mock everything up.
I ordered the headers uncoated because of thinking I'd have to weld O2 bungs, but I'll also have to weld flanges to connect them to the connecting pipes. Though I possibly could have gotten away with welding the V-clamp flanges, as they'd be covered up. Oh well, I'm hearing that Hooker's coating isn't all that great anyway.
My headers also have the "flat spot" discussed. It's sure ugly. I hope it's needed for steering box clearance. I will say this, the general workmanship on these Hooker headers is not nearly as good as my Williams SBC headers.
We'll see what's next once I start mocking up the installation.
Well I wasn't paying enough attention last night when I said one O2 bung was inboard and one outboard. They are both outboard, just like the photos posted of the 2289 Chevelle headers.
I now also remember why the O2 bungs are generally placed inboard on long tube headers. That's where the factory puts them, so the wire harness won't reach the outboard side. Often you need a harness extension with long tube headers even if the bungs are inboard.
Does anyone here use a wide band O2 sensor? Do they use the same bung and have the same threads as a factory narrow band sensor? Just wondering if I should just install another pair of bungs for the factory O2s in the correct place, and with them above horizontal as recommended. Then rather than removing the outboard bungs and welding a repair, just plug them and have them available for a wide band sensor, for use on a chassis dyno, etc.
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