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Thread: Newer style center link and pitman arm?

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    Newer style center link and pitman arm?

    I'm not crazy about my '57's OEM Rube Goldberg setup of little springs and whatnot that connect to the pitman arm. I would like to change it out to a more modern center link that uses a Morse taper balljoint stud to connect to the pitman arm. Is there a Chevy OEM center link and pitman arm out there that will fit and work correctly? I have a CPP 500 PS box, if that matters.

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    I've never heard of a complaint about the stock manual steering pitman arm connection.

    If you insist though, you can use a stock power steering center link and pitman arm, and modify it to remove the unneeded features for the power steering control valve and assist cylinder. The parts to do it are available from most 55-57 parts dealers.

    You should convert to a power steering idler arm also, so that the idler arm length matches the pitman arm length. This will assure you that each wheel retains the original geometry when the wheels are turned.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 02-08-2016 at 12:28 PM.

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    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    IMO it's unlikely that you'll find an OEM non-tri5 drag link that has the tie rod holes and idler arm in the correct location. I also don't see how changing a spring and socket configuration to a valve accomplishes anything. What's wrong with the stock setup? It seems to work well.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    I really don't remember the stock setup as being problematic, have to agree with Rick and Cnut on this one. Is this the same car with the Chevelle/ Camaro spindles.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    IMO it's unlikely that you'll find an OEM non-tri5 drag link that has the tie rod holes and idler arm in the correct location. I also don't see how changing a spring and socket configuration to a valve accomplishes anything. What's wrong with the stock setup? It seems to work well.
    It just seems to me that it is more complicated than it needs to be. I'm a simple man, I like simple solutions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I really don't remember the stock setup as being problematic, have to agree with Rick and Cnut on this one. Is this the same car with the Chevelle/ Camaro spindles.
    Yes, it is the same car. I'm doing a full rotisserie resto-mod on it.

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    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitchin'57 View Post
    It just seems to me that it is more complicated than it needs to be. I'm a simple man, I like simple solutions.
    Cut off the pitman ball, cut off the drag link and weld a new internally threaded end onto it, and use a heim. That's simple . I did something like that on a gasser frame we built.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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    Simplest solution is to keep what's there, you can buy the small parts new and make it factory fresh if needed.

    If you don't like the springs, replace them with solid spacers. That's the next simplest solution. The joint will then act the same as what you're dreaming about.

    I like the design because you can work on it and fix it if needed. If you had a center link from a 60s/70s car, you can't work on it, you need to buy a $150-200 remanufactured replacement, just because of that ball joint with the tapered pin.

    There's only two reasons there's a problem with either type.
    1. Never been greased.
    2. Collision damage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Simplest solution is to keep what's there, you can buy the small parts new and make it factory fresh if needed.

    If you don't like the springs, replace them with solid spacers. That's the next simplest solution. The joint will then act the same as what you're dreaming about.

    I like the design because you can work on it and fix it if needed. If you had a center link from a 60s/70s car, you can't work on it, you need to buy a $150-200 remanufactured replacement, just because of that ball joint with the tapered pin.

    There's only two reasons there's a problem with either type.
    1. Never been greased.
    2. Collision damage.
    What is the purpose of the springs?

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    I'm guessing it's to lessen the shock of hitting a pothole or the like on the steering box. Also that shock could be transmitted through the box to the steering wheel, though there's a lot of reverse leverage working against that.

    The springs also preload the joint without sideplay in a very simple manner, and the preload adjustment is very forgiving and easy.

    Two things come to mind:
    1. The recirculating ball steering box was an all new design in 55, as was the steering linkage.
    2. Roads were a lot worse in the mid 50s than now.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 02-09-2016 at 01:50 PM.

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