Ramjet 502 re-assembly

[Rick_L]

Same day that you are going to start assembly, roll the block out in the driveway and wash it with soap and water. Remove the oil galley plugs first. Then dry with air, and thoroughly blow the water out of all the oil passages. You could spray it it WD40 (not oil) but since you're going to start assembly that day it really isn't necessary. Don't use any oil until assembly starts.

[chevynut]

I thought about telling them to leave the oil galley plugs out and let me install them. Just a little more work now.

[chevynut]

They forgot the CAM!

I found this Mobil Oil article on engine cleaning and assembly and read through it looking for tips and details I'll need to consider. It's been a long time since I assembled an engine, besides the one in my Grizzly. It's not a bad article and has some good thing to watch for. One thing I was looking for was when the cam should be installed. It seems like it would be easiest to install it even before the crank is installed, since you can actually guide it in the bearings from below. Anyhow, I finished reading the series and realized they didn't even discuss the cam and timing chain/cover installation. I wonder if that's a oversight or what.

I know the cam can be installed even after the heads, but when is the best time in the build sequence to do it? I still haven't decided if I'm going to change mine or not.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...mble-an-engine

[Rick_L]

I install the cam either just before or just after I install the crank, usually first. First is good, being able to see it is helpful to guiding it into the bearings.

But it really doesn't matter and you make adjustments. Sometimes what you're checking and measuring as you assemble makes a difference in the order. On an engine that possibly has some adjustments to make, there's a trial assembly prior to the final assembly. Which might require cleaning the block twice. The trial assembly might not use every piece. Every time you assemble there is some different factor that you need to take care of or account for.

[chevynut]

On an engine that possibly has some adjustments to make, there's a trial assembly prior to the final assembly. Which might require cleaning the block twice.

I'm not going to go to those lengths . Keep in mind this was a NEW, FACTORY ASSEMBLED crate engine when I bought it. It wasn't a used engine, and it had no machine work done on it (except honing). I'm assuming everything was checked during assembly at GM and I don't need to do much more. I'm using the same bearings in the same locations, the same pistons in the same locations and the shop fitted the pistons to the bores for me when honing with a torque plate. They're a reputable shop an I think I trust them without re-checking clearances (and I don't have a torque plate). They replaced the cam bearings with new ones and nothing I've read says it's critical to check them.

All I'm replacing is the rings, seals, and possibly the cam and rockers. I may mic or Plastigage the bearings just to be safe, but I have no reason to suspect anything is wrong. I could have just fired this engine up when I got it.

Is it unreasonable to expect that it was assembled correctly to begin with? What all should I need to check? I'm not trying to blueprint it. I've even decided that balancing is probably a waste of money with a redline below 6000 RPM and a factory balance.

One thing I'm not sure how to deal with is the heads. I know they have some junk in the ports, and I'm afraid I may have to disassemble them to clean them up. I don't know how else to ensure they're clean and avoid sucking stuff into the cylinders. So then what? Do I change the valve seals? I have no reason to suspect they're bad. The springs are capable of accepting a much larger cam. Everything is new.

[chevynut]

I was reading through this article, and some of the stuff I really question. I know it doesn't apply to Chevy engines in particular, but what do you guys think about it?

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...ding-mistakes/

"Dynamic balancing is crucial to engine smoothness and survival because vibration (any vibration, no matter how small) kills. It shakes things to pieces. Not balancing an engine is foolish, courting disaster at worst and shortening engine life at best."

"Do not roll rings into grooves (even though everyone does it). It is impossible not to warp piston rings when you roll them on because they are not spring material. They will remain warped."

"Absolutely never lay a crankshaft on its side-not even for a few minutes. Crankshafts should always be stored standing straight up or hanging from a storage fixture. Laying a crank on its side will cause permanent damage."

[NickP]

FORD?!!!! Well, the crank they are cleaning is junk, it's on its side in the cleaning tank. Not balancing, again, a ford.

[chevynut]

FORD?!!!!

Don't know why it matters...same engine building processes and procedures apply. Maybe their cranks bend easily.

[Rick_L]

Your engine was balanced at the factory. No need to re-balance it.

Your crankshaft is not cooked spaghetti. It's ok to lay it on its side.

Some will tell you that you need a ring expander tool (just a pair of pliers with tips to grab the ring end gap) to open the rings to assemble them on the pistons. I never used one on race engines because those rings are back cut, thin, or both, and they're not as stiff as stock rings. You probably don't need them for a one time deal. Just don't twist the crap out of them. It's pretty easy to twist the ring a bit with the pliers too. But you really have to screw up to yield it causing a permanent twist, even with no tool.

Whoever wrote that crap is a magazine writer not an engine builder.

[markm]

Whoever wrote that crap is a magazine writer not an engine builder.


And probably trying to sell advertiser's tools.