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Thread: Post Your Favorite Easy Shop Tips!

  1. #11
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    I should have offered an alternative to the duct tape on the vise jaws.

    If you're going to bend up some jaw protectors, add a tab that can be bent down to hold them in place. If you're clever enough and the vise shape allows it, make the tab make a snap fit, not requiring it to be bent each time.

    There are also some reasonably priced jaw protectors out there that fit and close down on a hex shape, great for AN hose fittings.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 02-11-2017 at 05:13 PM.

  2. #12
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    Rick Speedway has magnetic backed alum jaws very reasonable price.

  3. #13
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    Good call, are they the ones that can correctly hold the hex shapes too?

  4. #14
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    You could also use the thin business card size refrigeratormagnets glued to the home made jaw protectors. They are easy to cut to size with a scissors.
    Brian

  5. #15
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Custer55 View Post
    You could also use the thin business card size refrigeratormagnets glued to the home made jaw protectors. They are easy to cut to size with a scissors.
    Brian
    Brian, Great idea - I had picked up a 1/8" aluminum angle piece from Home Depot, and was about to drill holes to epoxy super magnets into to hold the pieces on the vice, but you saved me from that unnecessary effort. Thanks!

    55 Rescue Dog, thanks for the great idea of the jaw liners. I have previously imprinted the waffle pattern from my vice jaw faces into pieces I clamped in the vice. I never stopped to think of a fix, just filed the pattern off. Thanks! Doug

  6. #16
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    I remember when a great tuning mechanic I took a class from 35 years ago (1982) in the dawn age of computer controlled engines, always recommended a carbon monoxide detector in a shop. He even had a SUN chassis dyno way back then, to search for power. Finally dawned on me when I was changing the battery in the CO/explosive gas detector from the house. So, I bought a fresh new one for the house, and put this one in the garage. You just never know how long you can run a car inside even for a couple minutes with the doors open. Especially a carbureted non-emission/no cat engine running on 110 octane race gas.
    IMG_0846.JPG
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 02-13-2017 at 04:38 PM.

  7. #17
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    I've forgot more things than I can remember! So, I'll just try and keep posting some past things I remember good or bad, to keep it going so I won't forget myself. And, why not try to "Pay it Forward"? Ideas are best when shared.

  8. #18
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    I don't plan to ever have to drive an oil pump pick-up in a old Chevy engine again, since I've been converted to LSx engines, but I came up with a great way to drive a press fit oil pump pick-up in. In my case I had a pump pick-up with a 5/8 tube. So I took an extra 5/8 wrench with a small dimple drilled into it to hold the tip a $19 air chisel. Using just enough pressure from a regulator, and a couple index marks I easily buzzed it right very tightly in to where it needed to be.1981 Z28 004.jpg
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 02-15-2017 at 05:18 PM.

  9. #19
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Did you braize that pickup tube to the pump plate also?? I've heard of them falling out and starving an engine unless you do so...

  10. #20
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Did you braize that pickup tube to the pump plate also?? I've heard of them falling out and starving an engine unless you do so...
    It pressed in straight, nice and tight, so I wasn't worried about it moving or falling out. The originals where always just a press fit. I think you can have issues by trying to beat a pick-up in with a hammer like the first one I ever did in 1973 on a BBC. That one definitely needed to be brazed.

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