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Thread: Post Your Favorite Easy Shop Tips!

  1. #21
    Registered Member Bihili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    So, I bought a fresh new one for the house, and put this one in the garage.
    I did the same thing and I am amazed how often the detector goes off.
    Even when I start the newer cars, if the garage door is closed the detector will go off.
    So now I always open the garage door before I start my vehicle.
    When I start the 57 I need two doors open.
    Bill 1957-427-177-6-410

  2. #22
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    Your not to put a carbon monoxide detector in a garage or by a stove, furnace or any gas appliance. Read the instruction manual, place the alarm at least 15 feet away from fuel-burning appliances. Other wise you will get false alarms. Put alarm in bedroom above or next to the garage, and hallway connected to garage. Most Carbon Monoxide detectors are good for 5-7 years and should be replaced after that time frame or when End-of-Life warning starts beeping twice every 30 seconds. Typically, the units have a tag or date stamp on the back to indicate it's age or expiration date.

  3. #23
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent's 57 View Post
    Your not to put a carbon monoxide detector in a garage or by a stove, furnace or any gas appliance. Read the instruction manual, place the alarm at least 15 feet away from fuel-burning appliances. Other wise you will get false alarms. Put alarm in bedroom above or next to the garage, and hallway connected to garage. Most Carbon Monoxide detectors are good for 5-7 years and should be replaced after that time frame or when End-of-Life warning starts beeping twice every 30 seconds. Typically, the units have a tag or date stamp on the back to indicate it's age or expiration date.
    What you said is correct, but putting an extra one in a shop is still good idea. It not exactly a false alarm in a garage. It is telling you to get the hell out of there before you hit the floor. Carbon Monoxide is odorless and there is no way to guess when it might be a problem.

  4. #24
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    I would have thought everyone that's interested in cars would know you don't start one in a closed building. You shouldn't need a CO detector if you know this.

  5. #25
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    What you said is correct, but putting an extra one in a shop is still good idea. It not exactly a false alarm in a garage. It is telling you to get the hell out of there before you hit the floor. Carbon Monoxide is odorless and there is no way to guess when it might be a problem.
    If you are running your engine in a garage - closed or not - (without pipes carrying the exhaust outside), then it IS a problem... (I don't need a CO detector to tell me this!)..

  6. #26
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    I would have thought everyone that's interested in cars would know you don't start one in a closed building. You shouldn't need a CO detector if you know this.
    If someone was stupid enough to run car in a closed building they probably wouldn't have a detector anyway. Unless you push your car outside and close the door so the CO doesn't drift back when you start it, there is no other way to know is all. Just thought it would be worth a try to use the non expired one I had in the house the last 3-4 years and get a new in there which is even more important. Do you have one in your house, and a half dozen fire extinguishers around? I have 4 within easy reach just in the garage, 3 in the house, and one in the car. But if you are very careful, you probably would never need one of those either, but that isn't being careful.

  7. #27
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Here is a great tool for taking U-joints apart. Since I don't have a drive shaft to set up in the press for a pic, I'll try to describe. This was a loose copy from a GM service manual for a U-joint tool. I used to struggle trying to press both trunnion caps at the same time to get the first cap out. So, I took some scrap 1/4 and 3/8 steel for the top, and welded it, and ground a couple notches. It straddles the cross arms of the joint, so you can press out one cap a time. Takes HALF the force with this method, reducing the chance of bending the ears on the drive shaft. After you get the U-joint fully assembled with the snap rings the conventional way, you can use this tool to seat the caps on the retaining rings to eliminate any bind in the joint.
    IMG_0871.JPG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Good call, are they the ones that can correctly hold the hex shapes too?
    Speedway part #6173661

    Info

    These soft-jaw vice inserts will keep your AN fittings looking great during and after assembly. The aluminum insert firmly holds the hex portion of the fitting without marring the anodized or plated finish. They can be used with any size AN fittings from AN3 to AN32.

    As a bonus, the long horizontal pockets in the inserts will hold braided hose while cutting. Includes magnet to affix it to steel vice jaws.

  9. #29
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    I remember when a great tuning mechanic I took a class from 35 years ago (1982) in the dawn age of computer controlled engines, always recommended a carbon monoxide detector in a shop. He even had a SUN chassis dyno way back then, to search for power. Finally dawned on me when I was changing the battery in the CO/explosive gas detector from the house. So, I bought a fresh new one for the house, and put this one in the garage. You just never know how long you can run a car inside even for a couple minutes with the doors open. Especially a carbureted non-emission/no cat engine running on 110 octane race gas.
    Attachment 6905
    Fired up my car after a long winter and in the 20 seconds it took to back out of the garage the CO detector had climbed to 100ppm. Dropped to 35ppm by the time I got a pic. Although not a dangerous short term level, it at least gives me a quick reference for staying out of the shop until it's back to zero. A cold engine puts out 70,000ppm's of carbon monoxide during the first minute of run time. IMG_1130.JPG

  10. #30
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Although it has many uses, vinegar makes a safe, cheap easy rust remover. Had 4 very rusty rotors to try and clean up so I bought 3 gallons of vinegar for $6 plus added 2 gallons of water to a plastic tub big enough for 2 rotors at a time. Let them sit outside for 2-3 days with a lid on the tub. Rinsed them off with soapy water and a scotch bright. Then I just hit them with a wire wheel, and got some paint on them right after I took pics.20160709_153255.jpg20160711_111721.jpg20160711_120621.jpg
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 07-11-2017 at 08:32 AM.

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