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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Thank you Timo, but my progress has really slowed this past year with all the virus stuff ...
    Same here but mainly because i busted my knee

  2. #332
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I had a local metal shop cut out some 2" x 2" pieces of 16 gauge metal, which I've drilled 1/2" dia holes (3) in each one to allow use for liftgate shimming and then primed them before installing (which I've not yet done). My tailgate is mounted so I can wait until I'm ready to install my interior trim before doing the shim install... parts are ready! (Cost me $26 for 20 pieces of the 2x2-16 gauge and a few hours of drilling on my drill press trying to drill 4 at a time!).
    Liftgate shims 0.060.JPG

    I've had the radio speaker grill retainers on order from a Danchuk distributor for 3 months, still don't have them because Danchuk didn't have them either! I only need a single one (the larger one) if any of you have an excess one...
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-08-2021 at 02:35 PM.

  3. #333
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Another Nomad project - NOS windshield wiper transmissions

    Recently I've installed the NOS windshield wiper transmissions I've had for 30 yrs am looking at the correct order to install the other 'under dash' items. I think the vintage Air 'defroster' ducts need to be installed before mounting the Evaporator unit?? I used the trick suggested by Harold Louisiana in his 'How to Restore your '57 Chevy' book on connecting the transmission cables to the central drive unit before installing them THRU the windshield wiper drive hole in the firewall, and also taped the cables together to help keep them together during that process! that worked out pretty well, much better than attempting to wind the cables around the central drum under the dash!
    wiper trans and excutcheons (Copy).JPG
    IMG_0294.jpg
    IMG_0296.jpg
    IMG_0292.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-08-2021 at 02:09 PM.

  4. #334
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I'm in the process of installing curved glass and sliders in my Nomad. Curved glass is 99% in and I'm working on understanding the Fisher process for the slider/channel installs..

    Having recently completed my quarter glass installs, and now working on all the issues related to the slider windows and channels, I thought It would be a good idea to list the things I've learned (maybe this is more for myself, since I have another Nomad I will need to do the same to, if I can ever get it painted)..
    1) Quarter glass seals: A friend who has restored many show winning Nomads over the years told me some of the 'stuff' that he learned and I always try to follow what he tells me. One thing he mentioned re the seals for the curved quarter glass is to use T&N seals if possible, as he's had more issues with other suppliers. I assume he was able to make the others work, just with more effort. I made a point to buy T&N seals (several years ago) so I used those.
    2) Quarter Glass Install: I put off this job for a LONG time and was very hesitant because of all the 'stories' I've heard over the years, but surprisingly my driver's side curved glass and seal went right in with not a great effort. A neighbor volunteered to come over and assist me and it helped to make sure I didn't 'drop the glass' thru the hole trying to do it by myself, although he had no trifive/nomad experience is even a 'foreign car' guy!~ He's also smaller than me so he was able to work from the cargo deck more easily than I (the distance from my butt to my head is more than the vertical distance from the cargo deck to the roof, so I had to do the interior tasks trying to hold my upper body at an angle. If you're 6' or over, find a shorter buddy to help you on this!
    3) Caulking used: The rubber seal does most of the 'sealing' (and the area under the quarter glass and slider glass is designed for a little water to come in and drain thru holes into the area under the exterior sheet metal, so absolute seal isn't necessary (or possibly ever achieved?), But.. use a thinned strip of non-hardening caulk (3M or Mortex) at the lower corner of the stainless trim to help; stretch out each strip to about half the orig diameter and then apply it into the corner of the stainless.
    noteI used the black 3M strip caulk (which is very sticky esp when warm), and I think it 'resisted' movement of the glass/rubber once it was in contact. Originally GM used a gray 3M strip caulk on fifties-60's cars, but that is no longer available, and the current black is MUCH stickier than the original gray. A similar material to the original gray strip caulk is sold by Mortex, and I'm thinking for this job next time I'll use the Mortex. The gray will not be seen externally if you apply it into the corner of the stainless trim but it will stay pliable and help seal the rubber to the stainless!
    4) Lubricant during install: Using a lubricant on the edges of the rubber will aid you in sliding the glass/seal into position. I used a little 'original GOJO and rubbed it on the seal just before installation, which helps the seal slide into position. you may have to work the glass into position and even use your hand on the forward edge to help push it into the rear corners!
    5) Retainers and screws: If you have your retainers and screws ready (generally #8 sheet metal screws, from 3/8" to 5/8" L) you can go ahead and install the retainers. I verified that I had the correct retainers and appropriate screws before I installed the glass so mine was all ready to go. One retainer hole in my car was 'enlarged', so I had to use a #10 screw for that one.
    6) Photos of installed Quarter Glass with retainers in place:
    DSC00887.JPG
    DSC00898.JPG
    DSC00898.JPG
    7) Stainless Trim on Quarter Glass front edge:
    DSC00907.JPGYou can install the curved glass with the forward stainless trim installed (or not). I had mine on the rubber before hand which helped me when I had to use my hand as a 'hammer on the front edge' to help the curved glass go back into position. Afterwards (yesterday) I found out I'd installed the incorrect trim piece on the rubber beforehand, so I had to use some windex to help get the trim off the rubber.
    8) Photos of Stainless Edge Trim for Quarter Glass and Slider:
    The correct stainless trim for the curved glass forward edge will have a fur strip attached to the 'inner facing' edge to help with the water/wind intrusion. A similar trim and rubber seal will apply to the rear edge of the slider, but it will not have the fur strip! I had Michael Domaracki restore my stainless trims for the curved/slider glasses, and he also removed the old fur strip and installed a new strip for me (and he did his usual great job).. - but he didn't remind me that the trim with the fur strip went on the curved glass edge!.. J/K .. I think I need someone looking over my shoulder all the time to keep me from screwing up!~ Here are photos of both stainless glass edge trims to help you understand the difference.
    curved and slider glass edge trim.JPG
    DSC00885.JPG


    I'm now trying to
    get my ducks in a row and figure out and understand exactly how the slider and it's channels are mounted. It seems everybody does this different; usually with screws thru the channel bottom, but I'm more interested in how GM/Fisher originally did this and I've purchased some rosebud clips which I think were used by Fisher and which popped into the oval holes in the body, but I haven't figured out how to keep the clips on the slider channel! Can anyone help me out on this?

    DSC00904.JPG
    slider channel clip retention.JPG

    I positioned this piece of channel in place and marked on the channel the locations for the oval holes (which accept the rosebud clips), but I'm not happy with the hold which the clips have on the channel... any ideas/suggestions appreciated!
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-08-2021 at 02:49 PM.

  5. #335
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I completed my slider installation weeks ago, but wasn't totally happy with how it went so I've delayed in reporting on it... Yesterday I installed the slider latch to the passenger side slider, and after allowing a day for the glass setting rubber to expand, I trimmed off the excess of the rubber and adjusted the latch.

    Also the past couple of days I've pulled out 'rechromed original parts' that I had Lemon Grove Plating do in 1990. I had this done for my 'first' '57 Nomad, but I'm going to use the rechromed parts on this '57 I'm doing (the parts have been wrapped in newspaper long enough!)..

    I spent some time on the rechromed tail light housings, painted the areas which was originally black, verified the socket was good and grounded, and installed the tail light housing to body seals. I also painted the bare metal on the splash shields (which mount to the underside of the TL housings.

    i also pulled the hood chrome (rockets, cups, backing plates and ordered new mounting brackets for those). I polished the chrome where it had been sitting for 30 yrs... I put some black paint in the grooves of the backing plates) so maybe I can install them tomorrow after applying a good wax coat.

    I'll take a couple of photos once these parts are mounted to the body.

  6. #336
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Just Read this ,
    Really nice job of posting the steps , now when I get around to my stuff on my Nomad it will be easier to do the work .

    Thanks Sid

    1955 2 DR Post
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    2019 Ford Super Duty F350
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    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1935 Ford 2dr Slant back I have 4

  7. #337
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Thanks Sid, I appreciate your comments, although I'm not sure what 'order' you're referring to.. Figuring out the order to reinstall parts is actually a time consuming task for me, and I've no idea whether I'm doing it 'right' or OK or not! I spend more time 'worrying' about it, and figuring than I do 'doing'... just one of my problems!

    Today I did a first 'fit' of the assembled 'hood rockets' - assembled from Lemon Grove rechromed parts from my 1st '57 Nomad but installed today on the current Nomad. The 'fit' in the holes in the hood was not as good as I'd like... not sure if this if because the parts came from a different '57 Nomad, or the rechrome process? (or perhaps the LONG wait?).. is over 30 yrs too long ?

    IMG_0546.jpg
    IMG_0550.jpg

    The 'rockets' (or windsplits - whatever you want to call them) are the same PN for each side, but the 'dish' and the back portion are unique PN's for each side. I purchased new 'brackets from Mutton HOllow parts and when installing them, I found out that they used 'metric' 10 mm hardware for the part.. WHY do companies making a reproduction for a fifties car that used all english sizing do that???

    I also cleaned up, assembled, and installed (for a first trial) the tail light housings. The housings themselves were rechromed also by Lemon Grove back in 1990 and remained wrapped up until recently. In 1990 I had fear that Lemon Grove might shut down or change their processes due to'environmental concerns', so I boxed up my '55 Nomad 6-pc Chrome, and ALL the chrome parts (minus bumpers) for my '57 Nomad and shipped them off to Lemon Grove (National City Calif at that time). some time later I received back two huge boxes of wrapped rechromed parts, which I unwrapped, checked and cleaned, and rewrapped back up until recently... (Actually in 2014 I had my first '57 Nomad in a paint shop for paint, and while that was going on (or was supposed to ahve been going on), I restored the chassis and unwrapped and prepared all the rechrome I'd had for 25 yrs! These parts have been on my pool table since 2014, under a dust cloth (sheet)... Haven't been able to play pool in the last 7 yrs, so it's time these parts got put on a car! (Even if it's a different car!~)..

    For the tail light housings, I cleaned, polished and waxed, and painted the backside and the lower edges in 'black'. Installed reproduction housing to body seals, lens gaskets, and lower dust shields (Danchuk), AAW wiring pigtails, NOS lens, orig screws, etc... Then the Assemblies were ready to install.

    IMG_0551.jpg

    IMG_0553.jpg
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 10-15-2021 at 04:13 PM.

  8. #338
    Registered Member carls 56's Avatar
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    nice bling, your doing. good. ----------> you know what's coming: what you do after lunch???????
    ARMY NAM VET, very proud!

    56 210 4dr

    drive and enjoy them while you work on them, life is to short.

  9. #339
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Attached below is the photo I took of the tail light area, and the grommet attached to the tail light harness (AAW) which I totally don't understand how this grommet would work in that hole in the body... Can someone who understands this or has installed an AAW harness help me out on this?
    Is there a different type of grommet that works in such a hole? or?? What do I need to do for this?

    IMG_0552.jpg

    Below is a photo of the installed sliders which I finished (almost) a few weeks ago... (been babysitting my GREAT grandson during the days for the past few weeks which has slowed down my work some... and I have to say spending time with my newest relative is more fun than hassling with installing parts on the '57 Nomad..

    IMG_0557.jpg
    IMG_0558.jpg
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 10-20-2021 at 02:24 PM.

  10. #340
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Tail Light Grommet

    Hi Bama,
    I didn't remember any issues when I installed the tail light grommets on my 57 2-dr hardtop, so I went out to see what that area looks like on my car:
    Tail Light grommet.jpg
    You can see from the image that the hole the grommet fits in on my car is way over toward the trunk opening, and I think just a simple hole with out the sheetmetal rolling in, like it does on your wagon. It has been a while, but I sure don't remember any fit issues like you are facing. I assume the grommet you have would fit a non-wagon body, and that there must be a different grommet for a wagon?

    By the way, your Nomad is really looking good - love it when the jewelry goes on!
    Regards, Doug

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