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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #311
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    RD, it would be best to run them in the channels GM provided (the same channels exist on both sides of the body, but they need sheet metal covers to protect the wires.

    Danchuk has both the front and rear wiring covers for 2 dr cars (#10133 for front at $38.95/pr) and rear (#17607 for $43.95/pr). Pricing is a little odd since the front pieces are longer and more complicated to make than the simple rears... but I suppose that might be based on sales volume or ??

    If you run your wires down the middle of the car you'd need a conduit of some type to protect them.

  2. #312
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    ^^^ Yes, sometimes I wish on my car I could just use electrical conduit fittings, and tubing just like industrial machine tools. I am going to use plastic electrical cord grip connectors instead of grommets for a couple brake lines, and whatever wires I need to run through sheet metal where I can.

  3. #313
    Registered Member Tabasco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    [B]The rear ones are pretty simple pieces (21-1/2" L, 2.5" W, with a 1/4" step 5/8" from the inner edge, so simple to make if one has a sheet metal brake and sheet metal.
    Since you have the dimensions, is there a local sheet metal shop that could just make you a pair? When I needed new ones for my wagon I took an old rusted one to a sheet metal shop. I had them do the 1/4 inch bend on 4 pieces of sheet metal the correct length. I had to do a few small trims when I got them home, and they work well. It took the shop 1 day to do it and they charged me $40.00.

  4. #314
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Tobasco, Thanks... that's what I'm checking on. I sent a message to a local sheet metal shop yesterday to get a quote... we'll see. If they aren't interested, I'll check out another.. (Note: Tractor Supply sells 16 gauge sheet metal in 24x8 dimension for $14... which is enough for two of them - if I can locate a buddy with a sheet metal brake)..

  5. #315
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Rear floor wire harness covers: I ended up buying a piece of 12x24 (22 gauge) sheet metal from my local Tractor supply ($10.99 total cost with tax), which when trimmed to 21.5" in length, provided 4 pieces 2-3/4" W x 21.5' L. I checked the thickness/gauge of an original piece to determine 22 gauge was correct for these pieces (Not 16 gauge). I had a local sheet metal shop make the shear cuts and put ONE of the 90 deg bends in each of the 4 pieces (charge $22.50). and I bought a 'metal folder' from Harbor Freight for $11, which I used along with some other metal and wood I had to make the corresponding 90deg bend (~1/4" from the first one). I was unable to find a shop that could make two 90 deg bends only 1/4" apart...

    So I made 4 of the parts (for my two '57 Nomads) for a total < $45. Instead of paying $43 _ shipping for each pair of the pieces. So I save a few $$ and got more satisfaction than paying for Danchuk parts! I drilled the correct holes yesterday and prepped all of the parts (front and rear) so maybe if it's warm enough I'll put a little SPI epoxy on them tomorrow.

    On other fronts:
    Wiring: I'm continuing to spend a little time with *planning* and figuring out the AAW wiring kit and what I need to change and where, and have begun bundling and wrapping the runs. and ordered/received some larger copper braided ground straps. Figuring on Ground strapping between body/frame (perhaps in more than one location), and also engine and frame.
    Windshield: This was a project that went on WAY TOO LONG... turned out that the supposed NOS windshield I received when I bought the first '57 Nomad long ago... is apparently NOT for a '57 Nomad (even though the width measured from lower corner to opp lower corner, and the height in the middle are the same as a new '57 Windshield!). After trying 4 different times spread across many months, with assistance from 3 different helpers, that first windshield just WOULD NOT go in - although I could get it close enough to encourage me to try again!... embarrassing here, but I can finally laugh about it. After my 24 yr old pharmacist-student grandson and I worked all one day trying to get it in, I gave up and retrieved a NEW '57 windshield from the other shop and after getting the rubber/stainless installed, we had the windshield in the car within an hour! Boy howdy do I feel stupid for trying so long and so many days wasted with a INCORRECT WINDSHIELD! I was very determined! *L* (after removing the T&N rubber from the first windshield, we carted the 'bad windshield over to another '57 Nomad (which has no glass installed) and it was pretty obvious as soon as we laid it into place that it was NOT RIGHT for a Nomad! (I should have done this FIRST THING, or at least after failing the first install attempt). Maybe one of you can learn something from reading here about my screwup on this!
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    Last edited by BamaNomad; 12-09-2020 at 08:19 PM.

  6. #316
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    You always ask questions when something doesn't go right, why not this time?
    (34) 1955 210 Back Glass Fitment/Install | Chevy Tri Five Forum

  7. #317
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Well Lee... ... I'd installed a half dozen or so windshields successfully (without issue) in the past, AND this windshield came with a '57 Nomad I'd purchased (years ago) and I was told it was NOS for the Nomad (and it 'looked' right and measured right). I HAD asked when I first attempted install (over in the trifive forum), and I got a few suggestions (but not about using these spacers). I did get it suggested (or asked) if I'd fitted the bare windshield into the frame before hand (and I hadn't). I was more concerned whether the glass had 'bent' from being stored for so long (30 yrs)... Anyway, this is a lesson that will stick with me for a long time...

    PS. Seeing your wooden blocks makes me think that taking an 'old' WS gasket, and cutting a few sections from it (2-4" long each) and using them on the lower and top edge of the windshield would serve a similar purpose (allow fitting check w/o danger of breaking/chipping the windshield). Do you think that would work? I used multiply folded shop rags in 4-5 locations when I checked the bad windshield in the other Nomad...
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 12-10-2020 at 05:43 AM.

  8. #318
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    When I went to install the lower windshield stainless, I was unable to find the lower corner stainless retainers in my stock (which I thought I had several pair of), so I had to order them and wait. They came in a few days ago, and since then I've attempted a couple of times to get all the retainers in place and the newly polished stainless installed; Just how many 'hands' are required for this task? Does anyone have any tips for doing it single handedly (ie. single me with two hands?).
    I'm having difficulty with getting the lower stainless pieces engaged simultaneously with the center trim piece and bracket, and with the fastened-down retainer, and getting it engaged with the corner trim stainless... maybe I'm lacking on the correct order to install these pieces?
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 12-18-2020 at 09:01 AM.

  9. #319
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    I just recently had the battle putting my trim on too. I think the center trim piece goes in last, and just snaps in. That's how I did mine.

  10. #320
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    While my grandson was home from pharmacy school, I was able to get a couple of 'two man' tasks performed which had been waiting.

    After trying several different approaches with the brackets/clips (unsuccessfully), I finally found the correct ORDER to install the clips to get the lower stainless and corner pieces installed! The best order I found was to screw down the center clips but leave it loose. The other screw down clips needed a small washer installed under it to allow room for the stainless to slide around it. The clips in the bottom curves with the stud was installed after sliding the trim piece onto the screwed down clip, leaving the center clip unattached for a bit. The studded clip was installed onto the trim next and was left 'loose' in the trim until the trim was adjusted into the corner triangular trim. I also had to do some 'minor adjustments to the ends of the trims where they engaged into one another, using a lubricant and first making sure they 'engaged' before trying to make it happen on the car. and Yes, RD, the center trim piece can be installed last when the trims are adjusted and snugged down and screws installed.

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    With my grandson's assistance, we also did an initial fitting and installation of the liftgate and tailgate, although the new weatherstrip is cold/stiff and is resisting a full and good gate adjustment. A nomad friend suggested leaving them closed and keep the garage warm as possible and the rubber would ease and allow a tighter adjustment, so the gates will 'adjust' on their own for a short while, as I move onto other tasks... The two gates do close together without interference with one another which was a concern...

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