Another Nomad project... :)

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  • BamaNomad
    Registered Member
    • Nov 2016
    • 3878

    #16
    Originally posted by Custer55
    Bama,
    I can't help you with the gas tank issues as my 2 door sedan is completely different than a Nomad in that area. From my experience fitting the body to the frame though, I had the body on and off the new frame several times to get everything to fit properly and run the parking brake cables. The 4 post lift I built was worth the time and money it cost many times over during that process. I don't know how you plan to do that on yours but like I said I am glad I took the time to build my lift as it saved a bunch of time in the long run.
    The bottom of your Nomad looks great by the way. Hopefully you won't need to do much to make the body fit on the frame.
    Brian
    The chassis was *designed* for the Trifive stock mounts, so there should not be significant issues, but the IRS takes up more space than the stock differential, so using a stock wagon fuel tank is out. Billy recommends cutting out the stock spare tire well, and covering with a flat panel; he uses the large 30 gal Rick's tank and the mounts for that are mounted on his chassis already. I've often regretted buying a 4-post lift rather than a 2 post, but at the time I was double-stacking two corvettes so it solved a problem at that time. I've thought about putting a 2-post in this garage, but... I hate to get into cutting up yr old concrete to pour a thick base for it... In the past I've accomplished several body lifts/installs single-handedly without a lift at all... so I will probably take that slower approach. I don't really want to further hack on this beautiful body... .. so if I can find a way to make a smaller tank fit, I will do so. Attached is a photo of the 'storage bin' that replaced the spare tire well by the previous owner/fabricator.
    Attached Files

    Comment

    • BamaNomad
      Registered Member
      • Nov 2016
      • 3878

      #17
      Originally posted by chevynut
      A Nomad/wagon has a lot more room under the cargo area than a sedan/HT does under the trunk if the spare tire well is removed. The cargo floor is a lot higher than the trunk floor. I don't know what mods were done to the spare tire well since you didn't post pics of that. The swaybar is also a consideration if it's up in that area. I personally don't think cutting more out of it and re-painting that area would be a big deal, since it's all covered anyhow....but if you're like me....

      Newman used to use the stock e-brake setup and even had a cable kit for his frames that routed like stock. I'm using Lokar sheathed cables with a foot-style Lokar e-brake pedal.

      By the way, your tires are set inboard too far, your track is too narrow, and your roll center is too high on that stock frame.
      I just posted a photo of the 'modified storage compt' that replaced the spare tire well. I have the space between that and the IRS to place a custom tank. Estimating the rectangular space available ... 10" x 12" x 34" or so; a tank that size would hold 15-16 gallons which should be sufficient. There's a local fabricator who has made custom tanks for a few fellas, so I will probably talk to him about doing something for this.

      Billy Dawson uses the Lokar sheathed cables also for his park brake, as did a friend in my area who is building a '56 on an AME chassis, but I'd like to stay as 'stock as possible on the 'user interfaces' so I will try to work out something. Billy doesn't include rear sway bars on his chassis as he thinks they aren't needed; I'm undecided about that especially with the Nomad roof/glass at the rear of the car. His frame is very rigid but...?

      Comment

      • BamaNomad
        Registered Member
        • Nov 2016
        • 3878

        #18
        Originally posted by chevynut
        Any idea how much front and rear suspension drop that chassis has? Where does the rear swaybar mount?
        Billy doesn't include rear sway bars with his chassis. No idea about 'front/rear susp drop... as I'm unsure exactly what you are asking. If you will define the term as you are using them, I'll try to answer? His frames are designed to get the c.g. as low as possible (his statement)...

        Comment

        • rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
          Registered Member
          • Sep 2013
          • 1039

          #19
          What is your plan for the Battery location? That custom compartment looks like it would hold a plenty big tank. The sloped base should help with fuel slosh issues on hard take offs on low fuel.

          Comment

          • BamaNomad
            Registered Member
            • Nov 2016
            • 3878

            #20
            Originally posted by rockytopper
            What is your plan for the Battery location? That custom compartment looks like it would hold a plenty big tank. The sloped base should help with fuel slosh issues on hard take offs on low fuel.
            Are you thinking 'fuel bladder inside the 'storage compartment?

            There should be almost an equivalent amount of space between that compartment and the IRS.. that was what I'd measured for those measures I provided.

            Re battery: Perhaps the best solution is to add a battery box behind the RHS rear tire (opening into the cargo space)?? At least that's what I've been thinking, but I do not have a design in mind ... just an upholstered cover to cover it all up on the inner fender well. If anyone has a design for a box to go in that space, I'd love to see it...

            Comment

            • rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
              Registered Member
              • Sep 2013
              • 1039

              #21
              Joe Lutz from Hotrod dynamics was offering one. He built it during the nomad build. The sweet dark blue one for Dan.

              Comment

              • chevynut
                Registered Member
                • Nov 2011
                • 11003

                #22
                Originally posted by BamaNomad
                Billy doesn't include rear sway bars with his chassis.
                Seriously? Seems like the wrong thing to do. Any idea why he thinks a rear swaybar is not necessary? Every modern car I know of has one. Every C4 Corvette had one.

                No idea about 'front/rear susp drop... as I'm unsure exactly what you are asking. If you will define the term as you are using them, I'll try to answer?
                With the front and rear suspensions set at ride height, where are the axle centerlines relative to where the stock axle centerlines would be? That's what I mean by suspension drop. My frames have a 3" front suspension drop (2" is optional) and a 2" rear suspension drop.

                His frames are designed to get the c.g. as low as possible (his statement)...
                The way that's done is to lower the car as much as possible. That's why I asked the question about suspension drop. It's also about stance, if highest performance isn't what you're looking for.
                56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


                Other vehicles:

                56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
                56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                1962 327/340HP Corvette
                1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
                2001 Porsche Boxster S
                2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
                2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

                Comment

                • chevynut
                  Registered Member
                  • Nov 2011
                  • 11003

                  #23
                  Originally posted by BamaNomad
                  Estimating the rectangular space available ... 10" x 12" x 34" or so; a tank that size would hold 15-16 gallons which should be sufficient.
                  Think about where you plan to run your exhaust before you take up all the space between frame rails. Also, you can go below the bottom of the frame some without it being visible from the rear of the car. Mine is 1.5" below the frame and you can't see it from behind unless you almost lay on the floor. The bottom of my bumper is even with the bottom of the frame. I wouldn't hesitate to go even 3" or so below the frame.

                  20170302_007.JPG
                  56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


                  Other vehicles:

                  56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
                  56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                  57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                  1962 327/340HP Corvette
                  1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
                  2001 Porsche Boxster S
                  2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
                  2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

                  Comment

                  • chevynut
                    Registered Member
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 11003

                    #24
                    Originally posted by BamaNomad
                    Perhaps the best solution is to add a battery box behind the RHS rear tire (opening into the cargo space)?? At least that's what I've been thinking, but I do not have a design in mind ... just an upholstered cover to cover it all up on the inner fender well. If anyone has a design for a box to go in that space, I'd love to see it...
                    Mine is a drop-down stainless battery box that's behind the right tire. It doesn't open to the interior of the car as I didn't want a door on the wheelwell. I added two jumper posts near the battery, accessible from below the car, as well as a battery cut-off switch. I don't plan to have to access the battery regularly.
                    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


                    Other vehicles:

                    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
                    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                    1962 327/340HP Corvette
                    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
                    2001 Porsche Boxster S
                    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
                    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

                    Comment

                    • BamaNomad
                      Registered Member
                      • Nov 2016
                      • 3878

                      #25
                      Originally posted by rockytopper
                      Joe Lutz from Hotrod dynamics was offering one. He built it during the nomad build. The sweet dark blue one for Dan.
                      I just took a look at HotRodDynamics website and didn't find such a product..? I'll take another cruise thru that build to see what he did (if he had any details). If I can find something to BUY which minimizes the time I have to put into it, I'd prefer to go that way as I'm anxious to get this car going..

                      Comment

                      • BamaNomad
                        Registered Member
                        • Nov 2016
                        • 3878

                        #26
                        Originally posted by chevynut
                        Seriously? Seems like the wrong thing to do. Any idea why he thinks a rear swaybar is not necessary? Every modern car I know of has one. Every C4 Corvette had one.

                        With the front and rear suspensions set at ride height, where are the axle centerlines relative to where the stock axle centerlines would be? That's what I mean by suspension drop. My frames have a 3" front suspension drop (2" is optional) and a 2" rear suspension drop.

                        The way that's done is to lower the car as much as possible. That's why I asked the question about suspension drop. It's also about stance, if highest performance isn't what you're looking for.
                        I'm sure I asked Billy about that in one of our myriad of discussions before I bit the bullet and puchased his chassis, but I'm not recalling specifics of his response right now. I'll ask him again when I get a chance.

                        Ok, now I'm following you re the 'susp drop'.. Basically you are referring to the designed-in static position of the half shafts wrt to the axle centerline in the vertical plane? I believe you are saying that with a 2" lower position of the wheel end of the axle at 'static' will result in the halfshafts remaining closest to 'zero' (parallel) given the dynamics of movement. and that sounds 'right' to me. I should crawl under one of my ZR1's and check what chevy's static position was... ? but many corvette owners use the adjustment capability to lower their cars, which would change the static position of the half shafts nearer to 'parallel', but probably when they do that, they do so along iwth a stiffening of the suspension which further limits the up-down movement of the halfshafts dynamically.

                        PS. I have/had the same impression about the lack of a rear sway bar, but the thing that swayed me to his chassis is actually driving one of his tri-fives with his chassis... Was absolutely the best driving/riding Trifive I've ever ridden in or driven, and compares favorably in ride with even higher end late model sedans (Cadillac, Lincoln, BMW, etc).

                        Comment

                        • BamaNomad
                          Registered Member
                          • Nov 2016
                          • 3878

                          #27
                          Originally posted by chevynut
                          Mine is a drop-down stainless battery box that's behind the right tire. It doesn't open to the interior of the car as I didn't want a door on the wheelwell. I added two jumper posts near the battery, accessible from below the car, as well as a battery cut-off switch. I don't plan to have to access the battery regularly.
                          CN: I totally understand (and agree with the reasons for your choice), with the only 'con' being access to the battery when/if you ever need to; your addition of jumper posts alleviates that issue, but doesn't eliminate it.

                          Did you design/build your own box? OR is that something I could find and quickly implement in my car?? I'd appreciate any details/photos/etc you are willing to provide as I too agree it is advantageous to keep the battery out of the passenger compartment.

                          Comment

                          • chevynut
                            Registered Member
                            • Nov 2011
                            • 11003

                            #28
                            I designed and built the mount but the box is something you can buy. You can also buy the jumper lugs. Chuck Williams (Sshamu) on the other site copied my design on his 56 Nomad with no problem. I made it out of steel rod, but it could be made differently. I added one small tab to the front end at the top and that is welded to my tub.....don't think it really needed to be there but it does reinforce it better. My lower flap comes off with DZUS fasteners to make access easier, but it may be more than you want to mess with. It may work without that too.

                            20071002_999_7.JPG

                            20071002_999_12.JPG

                            20071208_999_3.JPG

                            20090301_1254.JPG
                            56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


                            Other vehicles:

                            56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
                            56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                            57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
                            1962 327/340HP Corvette
                            1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
                            2001 Porsche Boxster S
                            2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
                            2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

                            Comment

                            • rockytopper R.I.P 5-13-2017
                              Registered Member
                              • Sep 2013
                              • 1039

                              #29
                              Originally posted by BamaNomad
                              I just took a look at HotRodDynamics website and didn't find such a product..? I'll take another cruise thru that build to see what he did (if he had any details). If I can find something to BUY which minimizes the time I have to put into it, I'd prefer to go that way as I'm anxious to get this car going..
                              He actually offered to sale them during the build not sure what page it is a long one lol.

                              Comment

                              • 55 Rescue Dog
                                Registered Member
                                • Nov 2015
                                • 1426

                                #30
                                Originally posted by chevynut
                                Seriously? Seems like the wrong thing to do. Any idea why he thinks a rear swaybar is not necessary? Every modern car I know of has one. Every C4 Corvette had one.



                                With the front and rear suspensions set at ride height, where are the axle centerlines relative to where the stock axle centerlines would be? That's what I mean by suspension drop. My frames have a 3" front suspension drop (2" is optional) and a 2" rear suspension drop.



                                The way that's done is to lower the car as much as possible. That's why I asked the question about suspension drop. It's also about stance, if highest performance isn't what you're looking for.
                                Did you forget the C7 does NOT have a rear sway bar, and there are many other vehicles that don't for some reason. What size sway bar does NASCAR use in the rear?

                                Comment

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