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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #421
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrifiveRichard View Post
    Where did you mount the binary/trinary switch for the a/c, Laszlo? Often times they go on the top of the dryer, and I don’t see one in the pictures above.
    The trinary switch is at the firewall bulkhead fitting screwed into the side of a tee from Vintage Air. It saved some wiring and allows easier access by putting it there.
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-26-2022 at 09:42 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #422
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    Sounds like a good approach.

  3. #423
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I got the wiring all tied up in the driver's side firewall area and in doing so I realized that I needed to add another ground wire. I have a ground terminal in the fan relay box, but only had one 12 gauge wire going back inside the car to ground when I did the preliminary front end wiring. I power my fans with a 10 gauge wire and they're grounded on that terminal along with everything else in the front of the car (lights, horns, etc.). So I ran a second 12 gauge wire back to a bolt on the firewall just to make sure I had a good ground. The brake pump is now grounded on that same bolt. The fans are 4000 CFM Dual Derales and the specification says they draw 24.8 amps each. The motors are supposed to be 265W each which is 22A, and I assume that's continuous current draw at full speed. The highest current is at startup and my fans never go from stopped to full speed. So I think I'm good now.

    I also added a 12 gauge ground wire for the hood release solenoid and another one on the passenger side to ground the lights and anything else I need grounded on that side. I still have to finish some wiring at the radiator support to make the connections to the fans and the horns, and install the light connectors. So I guess I need to get the parking lights installed .

    IMG_4949.jpeg
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-27-2022 at 11:31 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #424
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    I'm a little OCD when it comes to wiring, but yours is over the top. Takes a lot of time and skill to keep all the wires in tight parallel bundles like that. Too bad most people will never see it like the machine control wiring I used to troubleshoot where the wires were run like that and wrapped with strings long before nylon wire ties were invented. 12-gauge wire for an intermittent hood release seems a little much, and like my fear of anything remote operated, is there a way to open it when something goes awry?
    Since no one will see it, I actually used taped wire nuts in my headlight buckets that I use as a junction box for the headlight/parking lights so I can easily unwire it like I've had to do twice already taking my fenders on and off, and probably again at some point. They actually work just as well as many other methods. Just don't tell anybody.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 12-27-2022 at 03:45 PM.

  5. #425
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    12-gauge wire for an intermittent hood release seems a little much, and like my fear of anything remote operated, is there a way to open it when something goes awry?
    The instructions for the Autoloc 35 pound pull door actuator solenoid actually say to use a 10 gauge wire minimum. They also say to use a 20A fuse, which conflicts with that since a 10 gauge wire can easily handle twice that much current. I tried to measure the coil resistance and got 0.3-0.4 ohms so 30-40 amps at 12V. I figured a 12 gauge wire was more than adequate for a momentary circuit and both the ground and power wires are only about 12" long so it's not a big deal. The hood release is powered by the same 50A breaker as the fans. I see no reason to go with any smaller wire.

    The hood release operates from the key fob through the keyless entry/alarm system and I also have a hidden switch. And yes, I will have a manual method to open the hood in case the electric hood release fails.

    As with the tailights, I will have weatherpak connectors for the parking lights. Not sure yet which headlights I'm going to use or what connector they take, but they will probably be LEDs with halos since I think they're cool . I ran wires for the halos too and they will turn on as DRLs.
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-27-2022 at 08:32 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #426
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    I had a 30amp fuse on my Spal electric fan that only drew 17amps running, but the instantaneous start-up current was close to 40amps, and the fuse would randomly blow. Unless it's a dual-element fuse designed for solenoids and motors that have high current that spikes initially whereas a regular fuse element will blow. I changed the fuse out for a 30amp circuit breaker, and it can handle the current spike fine and now my fan always works when needed.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 12-28-2022 at 03:37 PM.

  7. #427
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Good progress here Laszlo. Thanks for the pics and for posting where you're at.
    Grounding (as you know) is super important. Lack of it can cause all kinds of gremlins.
    Stay with it. You'll be on the road driving it this summer.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #428
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I've been plugging away at the many small details on the car. Got the driver's side PCV hose installed, and waiting on the 1/2" hose for the driver's side PCV hose that goes onto the throttle body. Also installed the parking light panels, but found out I had to remove the grille to install them as they go between the grille and inner fender. Luckily it was not hard to do. Got all the A/C and heater lines installed on the bulkhead in the engine compartment, and realized it should have been done before the A/C compressor and bracket was installed. But after an hour or two of messing with them I got them installed. Still working on the radiator overflow hose to the tank, and the wiring to the fans and horns. I'm having trouble finding appropriately sized grommets and nobody locally seems to have anything.

    IMG_4998.jpeg

    Also finally got my interior guy to do something. He's building a big shop and is the GC, so he says he doesn't have time to work on my car. I built two frames for him, one was 8 years ago and the other 3 years ago. He owes me unlimited labor for my interior and I've already paid for all the materials, which we have. He also took one of the seats and I gave him a seat design I want to do. Last week he brought my steering wheel back that he took 6 weeks ago. The next step is to install the padded leather dash, which he says he'll work on. He's really good at what he does, but it was probably a mistake to exchange labor.

    IMG_4993.jpeg
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #429
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    I went through the McMaster Carr web page and ordered a variety of rubber grommets just to have them on hand. Seems every time you get in the middle of something it was another order and wait for delivery.

    Progress is looking good Laszlo!
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


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  10. #430
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Agreed. Looking good Laszlo.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

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