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Thread: Seamless frame/chassis from 57 Nomad -No Rust For Sale..

  1. #11
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of maintaining the 'aluminum' look of the radiator and support, but considering painting the 'flat metal parts' (Not the grills), with the same aluminum/silver paint I used on the engine/trans; that will be easier to clean and maintain the look...

    I have MUCH to do to the chassis/underneath before the final body drop, but I wanted to make sure how it was going to 'sit' and how much clearance I had before finishing those up; those include: gas tank (has to be a custom tank), fuel line(s)-regulator/filter, and emergency brake from midpoint to the front of the car. I have the Lokar cables for the rear portion. I'll be VERY glad when I can sit the body down and bolt it; then maybe I can begin putting on some other parts, insulating the inner sheet metal, and beginning the wiring. I got the throttle pedal/cable today from JEGS; I'm anxious to fit it and hopefully ensure how it's going to fit and work and put that out of my mind for awhile...

  2. #12
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I finally finished with helping out my neighbor on her new garage; the epoxy floor coating was the last step for me except for assisting her on some small stuff...

    With Dick's assistance, I worked on the 57 Nomad today; we agreed on a *different* design for the fuel tank (which means I won't have to cut the storage box out as I was thinking); so I called Rick's and hopefully they are working on a quote/feedback on these new tank dimensions.

    We also brainstormed and agreed on a design for the parking brake, and we began some fab work on that today. Basically, I'd wanted to use the factory handbrake, and recently had noticed that the original handbrake bracketry would bolt to the body and fit UNDER the driveshat and I began wondering if I could make the rear Lokar components work to the original lever (under the driveshaft). We brainstormed that and made some small brackets to bolt to the frame and hold the cables in position... Hopefully I can finish this in the next few days and i'll make a detailed post to show how it will mount/work. The handbrake should work like the original except for the disk brakes in the rear and the rear 'Lokar' cables... we'll see..
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-08-2018 at 06:07 AM.

  3. #13
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Good work Bama. Keep at it!
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #14
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Newman used to sell a e-brake cable kit to adapt the stock e-brake linkage to the C4 brakes. The configuration was just like stock tri5 but the cable replaced the stock one. Personally I wonder if there's enough leverage with the stock handle and frame lever to lock the caliper-style e-brake on the late C4 rear. It might work ok on the drum-type e-brake of the early C4s. I'll be interested to see how it works for you.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  5. #15
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Yes, I have some concern too, but there is a 6:1 leverage advantage in the stock lever. I think some people have made a shorter lever (with less advantage) for mounting on the frame rail, and I'm told they worked...? I didn't like the long routing of the passenger side Lokar cable to get it over to the driver frame rail for the 'normal' Lokar arrangement. If I have to, I can redrill the long lever to reduce/increase the leverage to adjust the leverage/throw of the Pbrake.

    OK.. It's time to get out in the shop and see if I can find all the bolts to finish up that job..

  6. #16
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I think somehow you need to get leverage and I don't think a hand brake with cables that just went to the calipers would work well. I went with a Lokar foot pedal but I'm not sure what the leverage ratio is on that. I routed my Lokar cables both to the driver's frame rail, the passenger one along the back of the floor pan. I personally like that better than having cables under my frame and exhaust. Are you sure the stock lever ratio is 6:1?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  7. #17
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    looks Really good , Like the color and the workmanship Looks Fantastic !



    Sid

    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2019 Ford Super Duty F350
    2018 Ford Explorer
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1935 Ford 2dr Slant back I have 4

  8. #18
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I finished up the basic Park Brake installation today, although I will have to remove some parts to treat/paint later before final install.

    Yes, the factory P-brake lever has a 6:1 leverage advantage; the hole for the rear brake cables is ~1.5" from the fulcrum point, while the pull handle cable is ~9" from the fulcrum point). I can redrill holes for the pull cable, or the rear brake cables if I need to but I think it will be OK... (will be awhile before I can test this). This is my first attempt to do a full modified/custom car, after doing restoration/preservation on Trifives, Corvettes, Camaros over the past 40 yrs or so. I'm much more comfortable and familiar with restoration of factory parts than selecting/modifying/installing custom parts!.. so I wanted to use the pull handle and front section of the factory Park brake mechanism, and modify the Lokar rear section to simulate how the factory rear brake cables functioned. I used only a short section of the Lokar sleeve (19.5"). Dick and I made a bracket for each side to serve as the pull point on the sleeve section. I used a clamp to the frame in the 19" sleeve section to ensure it cannot contact the tire or stabilizer rods for the suspension (cable is ~ 1" from each). I also had to shorten the springs included with the Lokar kit for use with the C4 (1996 rear brakes) pull levers. I had to lift the body up off the frame again to install the two front pullleys for the pull cable, then put it back and lift the full chassis/body to finish the install... See Photos...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-08-2018 at 08:13 PM.

  9. #19
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Looks really good BN. I didn't realize there was that much leverage on that stock lever....thought it was more like 3:1. Let us know how it works as far as travel and how much force you can get on the calipers.

    I didn't even use the Lokar spring because the calipers already have a return spring on them. Do you think they're necessary? It might make it easier to work the brake if you eliminate the springs.

    What clevis did you use on the end of the cable to connect to the caliper lever?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  10. #20
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    The clevis was the recommended Lokar part for use with C4 Corvette brakes *but it may have been the same part as for 9" Ford*... It's been a few months since I purchased it, and not sure I'm remembering correctly... I can check tomorrow and followup .. with the Lokar PN..

    PS. I first mounted the Lokar cables/clevis to the C4 brake levers without the spring (spring was too long), and yes, the brake itself has a 'pull back' spring, and Yes, it's probably overkill to use the Lokar springs as well, but I decided to shorten the spring and try them. I may end up removing them...?
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-08-2018 at 09:10 PM.

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