Yep, you fellas should take your 'forms of energy' discussion to it's own thread..
Hi Rick and TrifiveRichard,
Sorry, I missed your responses in the battery debate.
You are right, I don't have the same setup as Richard, was just thinking there might be a path I hadn't considered before. I have a 327, and put a GMPP serpentine belt setup on it, which came with the R4. I had hoped to put a Sanden on it, but couldn't see how to make it work without surgery to the mount and Sanden compressor (couldn't get the belt to line up and the Sanden to fit the GMPP compressor bracket).
Thanks, Doug
nice build, your doing good Richard.
ARMY NAM VET, very proud!
56 210 4dr
drive and enjoy them while you work on them, life is to short.
Whoa!
Great build, look forward to more !
Thanks - fyi, attached are a few more pictures, specifically of the air intake. The LS3 needs a reasonable length tube to locate the mass airflow sensor and the PVC air intake, something like 6 inches from the motor intake. Also, I really didn't like the air cleaner element in the engine bay (looks and heat) so I located the air box and K&N filter under the passenger fender. The bottom of the box is removable for swapping the element, and the air comes in from the radiator space, inner fender. The tubes and flanges are aluminum and are now black anodized.
Induction1.jpgInduction2.jpgInduction3.jpg
Attached are a few more pics, specifically of the heater-ac hose routing and connections under the hood. The vintage air evaporator unit in the passenger compartment has beed moved toward the passenger side, and mounted via a custom firewall mount I fabricated. The heater control valve is located inside that area also (yes, it would take some effort to change it out, but I don't envision the vehicle will see enough miles to need replacing it). The heater-ac hoses exit below the A-pilar rather than the location vintage air planned (this allowed me to mount the LS3 relay/fuse panel out of the way and clear the hinge). The firewall mount is a machined clam shell piece I made, along with another one that bolts to the inner fender to keep the lines straight. In addition, I removed the hose bibs from the motor water pump and tapped the holes (3/8 and 1/2 NPT). This allowed me to use 6-AN fittings for both heater hoses, and i think it provides a better connection and looks nicer, also.
Edit: pictures flipped, not sure why...?
AC1.JPG AC2.jpg AC3.JPG AC4.JPG AC5.JPG
Last edited by TrifiveRichard; 02-21-2018 at 12:04 PM. Reason: pictures flipped
TrifiveRichard, I like your airbox and plumbing. I've been searching for ideas on plumbing mine. Had several ideas, all of which had some kind of flaw, difficulty, bad looks, or just plain lack of room.
The LS3 needs such a long run for the MAS, and it's not easy to plumb a good looking intake system. I may yet put cover over it, not sure. I haven't assembled everything with the anodized tube t take a final look...
Dick,
I *think* the photo rotation will be solved if you load the photos (phone pix I'm sure?) into your computer and make sure they are right side up there (if not, then rotate them). If they appear correctly oriented on your computer then they should come out fine here...
Gary