Subject: 57-56-55 CHEVY LISTL
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:22:28 -0500
From: BOB FORD <BOB_FORD@compuserve.com>
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com

THIS IS THE 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
FOR JAN 11, 2004

IF THIS E-MAIL HAS AN ATTACHMENT, IMMEDIATELY DELETE THIS E-MAIL.

THIS LIST IS DESIGNED AS A MEANS FOR PEOPLE INTERESTED IN THE 1955, 1956,
AND 1957 CHEVROLETS TO COMMUNICATE WITH EACH OTHER AND HAVE A
LITTLE FUN IN THE PROCESS. ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME.

TO POST SOMETHING ON THIS LIST PLEASE E-MAIL YOUR POST TO
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM

THERE IS NO COST TO BECOME A LIST MEMBER AND ONLY LIST MEMBERS ARE
ALLOWED TO POST SOMETHING ON THE LIST.

THIS 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST IS NOT SENT OUT ON ANY SET SCHEDULE SO IF YOU
WANT TO POST SOMETHING THAT CONTAINS A DATE, PLEASE SEND IT IN EARLY
SO I CAN GET IT OUT TO THE LIST MEMBERS BEFORE THE DATE OF THE EVENT.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR CITY AND STATE WITH YOUR POSTS. IF YOU ARE
POSTING SOMETHING FOR SALE PLEASE ALSO INCLUDE

1. YOUR PHONE NUMBER
2 THE PRICE
3. WHEN YOU WILL BE AT YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND YOUR TIME ZONE.

TAKE AS MUCH SPACE AS YOU WANT AND FULLY DESCRIBE WHAT YOU HAVE
FOR SALE OR WANT TO BUY.

YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT THIS LIST ARE WELCOME.

IF YOU WANT TO SEND ME E-MAIL THAT YOU DO NOT WANT ON THE LIST
PLEASE PUT "PRIVATE NOT FOR THE LIST' AS THE SUBJECT.

THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS LIST ARE THE MEMBERS OPINIONS AND NOT
NECESSARILY MINE. I RESERVE THE RIGHT TO EDIT OUT ANY MATERIAL NOT
APPROPRIATE FOR THIS LIST.

PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AS THE LAST THING ON YOUR E-MAIL.

IF YOU BUY SOMETHING FROM A LIST MEMBER, PLEASE BE AWARE THAT I HAVE
NO WAY OF KNOWING THE QUALITY OF THE PRODUCT OR THE HONESTY OF THE
SELLER. BUYER BEWARE.

BECAUSE OF THE DANGER OF A VIRUS, PLEASE DO NOT SEND ATTACHMENTS
WITH YOUR E-MAIL. E-MAIL WITH ATTACHMENTS WILL NOT BE READ.

THANKS
BOB FORD
EDITOR
__________________________________________________ ____________________
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Horst/Joyce Urbaniak", INTERNET:567chevy@classicbowtie.com

Happy New Year to you Bob, and everyone on this list.

While browsing the Internet I came across a website that was advertising
Newly Manufactured 1955 Nomad 6 piece eyebrow/fender/door moulding sets
complete with clips. The website is www.caldwellclassicchevy.com.
I was wondering If you or your readers might know who is reproducing these
mouldings.

Parts Wanted:

57 Chev Orig Batwing Aircleaner
1972 Impala---Left Front Fender and Front Bumper
1970 Impala 2 Dr--Complete set of Body side mouldings
1967 Nova--Left Frt Fender

Parts for sale:USED

55-56 split bench seat, good condition----$700.00
57 Split bench seat, good condition--------$800.00
57 Complete 283 4 V engine and PG trans, need rebuilding---$2500.00
57 Frt + Rear used accessory guards------$400.00 set
57 Orig used rear antennas---------------------$100.00 ea
57 Radio rear speaker switch-------------------$100.00
55 Sedan Delivery tailgate/door-----------------$750.00
WE have hundreds of used parts. Call or Email with your needs.

Parts for sale: NEW
BEE SEEN! BE VISIBLE IN YOUR CLASSIC! PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT AND YOUR
PASSENGERS!

Tri 5 LED taillight conversion kits consisting of a Circuit board with 32
Super Bright RED LED's, mounting kit and Instructions.
These LED kits provide you with the Visibility that your investment needs.
Price is $159.95 for the kit.
WE can custom build a set for any car, both 6 volt and 12 volt.
Contact us for further info.

LED Stainless steel bumper bolts, come in Amber, Red and Clear, become
corner marker lights and signal lights when used in place of the corner
bumper bolts. Patented lens gives appearance of stock bumper bolts when not
lit. Prices start at $39.95 per pair.
For more information on these lights and the other fine restoration parts
we carry, call or fax us, or visit our website.

NOTE: All prices are in Canadian Dollars.

RegardsHorst & Joyce Urbaniak
Classic Bowtie Connection
Ph (604) 856-6762 Pacific Time
Fax (604) 856-6797

Email 567chevy@classicbowtie .com
Web Site www.classicbowtie.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Stephen Gash, INTERNET:stephen@large.tv

Hey Bob.

Long time off the list. I have a whole new e-mail address and would very
much like to be put back on the database.

And I have a question for the house.

I am thinking about putting a drop-spindle / disc set-up on the front of my
55 Nomad. Does anyone have a point of view about (a) how much the parts
should cost (b) the hours of labour you think it might take to install (c)
who to buy (and who not to buy) such a unit from and lastly (d) any handy
hints (like "DON"T DO IT!!")

Thanks everyone

Stephen Gash
Large
+44 207 851 2000 t
+44 207 851 2001 f
+44 7785 527800 m

www.large.tv
---------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:TA96SSDCM@aol.com, INTERNET:TA96SSDCM@aol.com

Happy New Year to you Bob and all of the Listees.

I am in the mist of a frame off restoration of a 55 2DRHTP. I need the
following NOS parts and I am hoping someone on the list either has them or
can give
me a lead to where I might be able to find them. Right inboard sheet metal
from the trunk to the taillight and the outer tail pan sheet metal below
the
trunk. I have tried to use the reproduction pieces but the fit is terrible,
(I
have a NOS left inboard from the taillight to the trunk and if its
perfectly). I
also need the left upper paint divider, the right lower (rear) door spear,
left front fender spear, good used drivers door and a 55 A/C compressor. I
have a
lot of 56 A/C parts and a 57 A/C compressor if anybody is interested. I
started this project about 2 years ago by collecting parts first. My wife
is now
calling this car a 55 Cyberolet. We are both amazed how many original parts
are
still available. I have been able to collect all of the front end sheet
metal,
both rockers, both quarter panels and all of the exterior brightwork except

for the items listed above. Between this list and Ebay I don't think a
project
like this would even been possible. Thanks for your help.

Toby Andrews
Seattle area
-----------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Raeber57@aol.com, INTERNET:Raeber57@aol.com

I thoroughly agree with Mike Oatman's assessment of the sedan vs. coupe
question. I couldn't have stated it better myself. I'm glad I didn't find a
coupe
to build up and that I ended up with a sedan. Both styles are beautiful,
but
sedans suit me best because they lend themselves much better to
modifications. I
think coupes look best when they're left stock and sedans look best when
they've been righteously chopped. And it's great that some Classic Chevy
people
prefer wagons, others like 4 door sedans. 150's and 210's for some and Bel
Airs
for others. Stepsides, Corvettes, Nomads, Squad cars, Cameos, El Moroccos,
Elcanomads and other customs! Nearly 50 years later there's still plenty of

styles to choose from, and for most of them, there's never been more parts
availability. I'm thankful that 2 door sedans and their parts don't command
the
outrageous prices being paid for convertibles and convertible parts or else
I'd have
been priced out of the hobby. Variety is the spice of life. Select the
style
that suits your bank account, lifestyle and personality and roll with it!
<The
Sedanman>
-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Joseph Rock", INTERNET:underrail@msn.com

I was wondering if anyone on the list knows of a site (or more than one) to
look up GM part numbers Other than the local dealers parts counter
Thanks

Joseph M Rock
-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "Dennis", INTERNET:d.mylin@millersvillebiblechurch.org
Bob,

I was wondering if you might be of some help to me. My dad bought his
first car when he was a senior in high school. A "55 Chevy B.A. Spt.
Cpe. Sometime in the early '70's he sold it. Now of course he wishes
he hung on to it. I have the VIN and motor number from the original
sale's slip. Do you know if there is any way to find out whether the
car is still around today?

Thanks for your time.

Dennis Mylin

Editor's note. Go to your states DMV and start your search their. Also,
see if your dad has the name of the person he sold it to. Try to track
them down. The Internet is a great way to find people. Try it.
BOB
-----------------------------------
To: "bob ford", BOB_FORD
From: "Don Foster", INTERNET:dfoster56@houston.rr.com

Hi Bob
I know your new letters are for tri-5's, however we're Chevy lovers at
heart. I saw a 1961 Chevy impala SS in College Station today.
Every marking looked original. Can anyone tell me if Chevy made a SS in
1961? It was a beautiful black w/red bucket seats, and 4 speed car.
Didn't get to see under the hood, it made have had a 283, 348, or a
early 409 don't know.

Thanks for any information. Happy 2004 and thanks for your news letters.

Don Foster
Dfoster56@houston.rr.com
-------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:TOTALFLOOR@aol.com, INTERNET:TOTALFLOOR@aol.com

I didn't keep track on all the solutions for "burping" PowerGlides, and now
I
need some information regarding them. What was the final "best" solution? I

promise to pay attention this time around. Also, anybody have a set of '56
Belair hubcaps? Looking for a nice set, even new, as long as they are not
the
"cheapo" variety. Thanks.
----------------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com, INTERNET:WSSmolick@aol.com

FOR SALE>>>> '55/'56 6cyl optional oil bath air cleaner $25; 6cyl fuel
pump
and water pump rebuildable cores $5both; solid original cowl floor braces
$60pair.

Wyatt S. Smolick
WSSmolick@aol.com
Coopersburg, PA
-------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com, INTERNET:Chevy156@aol.com

Hi Bob,

To you & everyone on the list. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! .....

The debate on which is worth more or which is more desirable is most
certainly a no win topic

The reference to just get out of a Hard Top & into a Sedan & you can tell
the
difference in the way they handle is not a fair statement because I
personally own both a Hard Top & a Sedan & they both handle like a dream.

It's becoming harder & harder to find these cars and as time goes by more &

more project cars begin to surface from the strangest places just look thru
the
E-Bay Motors pages & you'll see what I mean. Half of these cars look like
they had to cut down a tree growing thru the car to drag it back to the
farm. In
one case I even saw a car on E-bay that had the tree still growing thru it
(
No Lie wish I would have copied the pic )

I was at a Classic Chevy Convention back in 97 & Joe Whitaker said at the
judges meeting how surprised he was to see as many 4 dr cars on the show &
shine
field. According to him, CCI has noticed that the 4 dr Sedan & Hard Top
Cars &
Wagons have become more sort after then ever before in the past.

Today we have people building 2 & 4 dr Station Wagons - 4 dr Hard Tops &
Sedans
In today's collectors it's in the eye of the beholder that determines which

is better or not and which is worth more to them

~ And for the Lipton - Tea - Topper of the topic ~
At Another CCI Convention I had my 56 4 dr Sedan on the Show & Shine on
Friday, Ripping up the Race Track on Saturday with the Two Door cars (
winning it's
fair share of runs ) and back home by Sunday in one piece to drive Mom
Grocery
Shopping !
-------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "angie spies", INTERNET:svsugoddess@hotmail.com

I have a 1956 Chevy Belair 4 door hardtop. I live in Michigan and i can
not find any good information on this car and i am trying to restore it and

would like to see pictures of this style car and information about it. If
you know of any good websites or books please let me
know..svsugoddess@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: Albert Sirk, INTERNET:asirk@telus.net

To CJ Wilson, regarding rebuilding a 283.

I believe that not all 283 cranks are the same, but don't listen to me...
Get a hold of the book "How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy" by David
Vizard. It was my primary reference when I re-built my 283. I'm pretty
sure it is still available. It has all the answers to your questions and
also usable substitutes if you can't find certain parts. I do know that
you can use different cranks in your 283, but this will sometimes involve
machining the journals and making sure the counterweights clear the block
etc. Also, the 57 283 had a forged steel crank, which is stronger than
some of the later cast iron ones. The cam, I believe, is pretty much the
same in all small blocks, but you will have to make sure the lift /
duration is compatible with your pistons etc. Again, I don't know a lot
about this, but the book will answer all these kinds of questions. After
you finish figuring all that out, you can follow the step by step
instructions as you rebuild your engine.

Good Luck,

Al Sirk
'57 Bel Air 2 dr HT
----------------------------------------------------------
To: "'Bob_Ford@compuserve.com'", Bob_Ford
From: "Knopp, Tom", INTERNET:tknopp@cmpd.org

Mechanical fuel pumps pull better than they push so that's why its on the
engine. Electrical pumps push better than they pull so you mount them as
close to the gas tank as possible. I usually mount them on the frame rail
as
close to the tank as possible. You also have to put a filter in front of
the
pump so it catches the crap before it goes thru the pump.
-----------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: "carol woodhead", INTERNET:carnevil@bigpond.com


Hi Bob i have a question for you or any one on the list can answer it ??
door tag on a 57 coupe reads VB57A_ _ _ _ _ _ is this a factory 6 cyl 210
?? or a Belair ??
The car is in full Belair dress has all the badges trim and stainless to
suggest it is a belair.
However i have purchased a copy of- Chevrolet 57 Restoration guide by
Aregood Oakley Umphenour and this book tells me its a 210 a little
confusing as the Florida Title states Belair on it ?? .
Hope you can help, the list is great.
Kindest regards Neville.
--------------------------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Browser521@aol.com, INTERNET:Browser521@aol.com

For those looking for roofs, stainless trim, trunk lids, etc, I suggest you

contact Brad Smith at Brad's Classics in Hindsboro, IL. (217) 346-2813.
Brad
has over 350 tri-fives that he's parting out.! I got a hood and other parts
from
him and found him fair and honest. David Browe, Cincinnati, Ohio
-------------------------------------
To: [unknown], BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:steward7@cableone.net, INTERNET:steward7@cableone.net

Hi Bob, Marvin Steward here, I still need a deck/trunk lid for my 1955
chevy 210 2 door, I did buy one off of ebay and finally received it, it was
worse than the one I now have as far as rust and I asked twice before
bidding and with a swift response I was informed the only holes it had was
where bolts or screws and rubber grommets go, I have no recourse for my
$200 plus shipping, if anyone out there has a good no rust not even pin
holes at a reasonable price please let me know, I just feel so stupid over
this ebay thing and don't ever think ebay will do a thing they will not..

Marvin Steward
Denison,Texas
75020
903-463-0500
-------------------------------------
To: BOB FORD, BOB_FORD
From: Charlie Schneider, INTERNET:cmschneider2@optonline.net

Hi Bob; Happy and Healthy New Year! The latest geographical teaser is a
good one! Using your parameters (all 50 states, think Lat/Lon. ) The
correct answer is North- Alaska, South-Hawaii, East- Alaska!! and West-
ALASKA again. The North is no question, Alaska(1/3 of the state is in the
Artic circle). South is also a no brainer, Ka Lei on the big island at 20'
North, is the most southern spot. West gets tricky, you might guess Hawaii
again but the Aleution Islands stretch all the way to the 180' Longitude
line making it, the western most point. But, considering the fact that they
extend past the 180' line, they go into the Eastern Hemisphere and up to
the edge of the Russian Federation! So Alaska is the answer for North,East
and West!!! PS. Excluding Alaska & Hawaii the answer is N-Minnesota, S-
Florida, E- Maine and W-Washington State.
--------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: INTERNET:Thaddspad@cox.net, INTERNET:Thaddspad@cox.net


Bob...Re Electric fuel pumps..
The advantages to an electric pump are:
1 The electric pump mounted low and in the rear pushes the fuel as opposed
to pulling by a mechanical.
2. Electrics can be purchased that provide more pressure and volume, a
particularly good idea for High Performance stuff.
3. There is a safety aspect in that the flow of fuel can be controlled by
the user.
Electric pumps are best installed near the tank, and work best if they are
below the lowest point of the tank.
By-pass...It is not necessary to by-pass the stock fuel pump in a
streeter...The mechanical pump acts somewhat as a fuel pressure regulator.
On my motorhome (454 Chevy) I run both a big Electric and a Corvette
mechanical pump. I figure that pushing the fuel 20 something feet with an
electric has got to be better than sucking it 20 something feet with a
mechanical...
Thadd
-----------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "MrChevy57", INTERNET:MrChevy57@earthlink.net

To Frank with the radiator problem & my good friend Mark:

Changing the thermostat to a lower temp unit (such as a 160) will do the
following:

1) The 160 thermostat will open sooner, however, as soon as the engine temp
exceeds 160, there
will be no residual benefit from the 160 therm versus a 180. I suspect
Mark had a defective
therm if the change to a 160 helped else he switched to better brand.
Mark's a smart fellow and I
trust him.

2) Overheating at idle is primarily due to an insufficient amount of air
passing thru the radiator
and/or an insufficient radiator.

Here are some PROVEN steps which will reduce this problem.

1) Make sure the radiator is in good condition and filled to the prescribed
line on the side of the
top tank with 50/50 antifreeze. Overfilling it will do no good, it will
simply blow off the excess.

2) Make sure your 6 blade clutch fan is fully encased in a shroud that
forces all of the air to flow
thru the radiator. 9 out of 10 shrouds seen at car shows are poorly
designed and offer little or no
benefit. The ones that are attached directly to the radiator are the
biggest joke. Using a plasma
cutter & a sheet metal brake, my friends and I built shrouds for our cars
that are custom fit to the
radiator. Virtually every square inch of radiator is encased by these
shrouds and all of the air is
forced thru by a well pitched fan that has less than 3/4" between it and
the surrounding shroud. In
effect, we created a wind tunnel and that puppy really sucks air.

3) If the car is an automatic, install an external trans cooler, the
largest you can afford, and
eliminate the trans cooler from the lower part of the radiator. 57's have
a lot of sheet metal under
which you can hide most huge oil coolers.

4) If that doesn't get it done, add a pusher fan in front of the radiator
to supplement the 6 blade.
Make sure your alternator will handle the increased amperage and don't
chince on the wiring.
Use a relay cause the stock 57 ign switch cannot handle 30 amps.

5) We used a $70 high flow belt driven water pump in all 3 applications
(see below), but I do not
think we derived any appreciable difference from a stock belt driven water
pump.

RESULTS OF 3 EXPERIMENTS: On a 57 Nomad, 350/350, the 27 inch aluminum
radiator
keeps the engine cool with a/c on high and stuck in Tucson summer traffic.


On a 57 two door, 350/350, the stock 3 core radiator keeps the engine cool
with a/c on high and
stuck in Tucson summer traffic. In fact, the stock gauge moved 1/8" to the
left after the custom
shroud was added and stays there at all times. Most often, this car rides
on the 160 degree
thermostat.

On a 69 Camaro, by far the toughest project, 350/350, the (new) 4 core
stock radiator with stock
shroud needed an electric puller fan to keep the engine cool with a/c on
high. The HEI was
overadvanced on this car. Between the static timing, mechanical weights and
vacuum advance,
this car was pulling 52 degrees of advance. WAY TOO MUCH. By correcting the
distributor
(limiting it to 40 degrees total advance), we reduced overheating at high
speeds and under load
(long uphills). This car will receive the custom shroud treatment before
summer.

No, I don't sell shrouds. I just hate to see others make the same mistakes
I have made. If you
want to see pictures of the shrouds, send me your email address.

Barry55@earthlink.net
Tucson
-----------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "MrChevy57", INTERNET:MrChevy57@earthlink.net

Editor's note. Has anyone had any experience with Red Line Water Wetter?
Does it work?

>From Barry in Tucson: Yes, Water Wetter works to empty your wallet but did
nothing for the 3 cars I tested it in.

Barry55@earthlink.net
Tucson
--------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Chuck Elliott", INTERNET:chuckelliott@cox.net

Bob
I want to say hi to you and all of the other folks on the list. I also
want to wish everyone a Happy New Year.

I am looking for the passenger side, window latch for the sliding window on
my 57 Nomad. Does anybody out there have one at a reasonable price? If
so, please contact me with condition and price.

Thanks again for all you do.

Chuck Elliott
57 Nomad
chuckelliott@cox.net
--------------------------------------
To: "Chevy List", bob_ford
From: "mr55chev \(cable\)", INTERNET:mr55chev@comcast.net

Bob - great story on the Tempest and its early years. But, did you know
that the radical new GM 215 CID aluminum V8 used by Buick and Oldsmobile in
their versions of the Tempest was an option in 1961 and 1962? The engines
were very similar, the differences being in the cylinder head designs and
form the basics, believe it or not, of todays 3.8 Buick V6 that powers so
many GM cars. I believe the Buick version was the one used in the Tempest -
Mickey Thompson immediately had a 421 in a Tempest before the ink was dry
on the introduction hoopla...I remember seeing it at the 1st
Winternationals in 1961 at Pomona, along with a Tempest 4 dragster and a
Tempest 2 dragster (yep, they sawed two cylinders off of the 4 and made a 2
cylinder out of it). The man was a genius and this kid had seen Challenger
at the salt the previous summer turn over 400 mph with 4 Pontiac V8's in
that streamliner. I was surprised at the boos and catcalls from the fans
at Pomona when he came back down the return road.
Sandy Pierce
Salt Lake City, Utah
------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "Bill Kautz", INTERNET:kautz@comcast.net

Hi Bob,
HAPPY NEW YEAR to you and all the members of this list.

An electric fuel pump delivers fuel at a constant rate and is not
dependant on engine speed. An electric pump is installed in the fuel line
just about anywhere you'd like, next to the engine or in the rear near the
gas tank. On an engine with a mechanical fuel pump you bypass the
mechanical fuel pump. You can remove the old pump and install a plate over
the opening. If you tried running both pumps together they would probably
try to counteract each other, reducing the efficiency of both. One thing
about electric pumps is that they are very easy to replace if you have a
problem. Two wires, two hose clamps, and a mounting bracket are all that
has to be worked on. European manufacturers have been using electric pumps
since at least the late '50s. My brother had a '58 MG-A with an electric
pump which was mounted under a plate behind the passenger seat. It could be
changed out in less than 10 minutes.
Thanks again for this list. It's nice to be able to give a little back
to you! Wild Bill
-------------------------------------------------
To: "BOB FORD", BOB_FORD
From: "George Ma
sters", INTERNET:mastersg@minot.com


Hi Bob,

If anybody out there has a pair of nice chrome hood hinges &/or springs for
a 55 Chevy, I would be interested if the price is right.

Thanks for a great newsletter.

George Masters
Minot,ND
mastersg@minot.com
-----------------------------------------------
From: Editor

I have an Epson LQ-510 printer that I would like to give to someone or an
organization that
could use it. It is a dot matrix impact printer that uses a ribbon. It is
not new but it works
without any problem. You connect it to a computer through a parallel port.

All I ask is you pay the shipping cost to you.


BOB
-----------------------------------------
From: Editor

Please mark your calendar for Aug 14, 2004 when we will have another Meet
the Editor party.
BOB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------
end of 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST
BOB FORD
18091 MARK CIRCLE
VILLA PARK, CALIFORNIA 92861-2648
BOB_FORD@COMPUSERVE.COM
VOICE 714-637-8877
FAX 714-637-2955
Editor of the 57-56-55 CHEVY LIST and TURBOGLIDE REGISTRY
I plan to live forever, so far so good