Battery Re-Location Project

[Newbieexpert]

OMG> What a ton of work. Great job. But for me I'd never take on such a project. Not when the battery can fit behind the seat so well. When tri five owners deck the trunk with mdf and customize it they just leave a door there or allow the entire piece to pop out so they can access amps, batteries, etc.. But I think as far as originality you take the prize. I've not seen one done this way, ever. Even I thought of it and then thought of the work involved and quickly decided to put my battery holder behind the seat. I've seen dents in these tire holders a plenty. As long as you don't take it off road you will be fine I think. Great metal working. Be sure to add yourself a cut off while you're at it.

[Newbieexpert]

Don't be that envious. It's WORK to bend metal and spot weld everything one trigger pull at a time! Mig welder. I can do it, but too much work. Especially when the battery fits right behind the seat with several inches to spare. One small battery holder so you can clamp it down. I'm going to use my spare tire holder for a smaller tire that will fit. I have triple AAA but you never know where you will be and how long you will have to wait for them. They don't carry spare tires I don't think. But I guess they could plug one and fill it up with air in a pinch.

[Rick_L]

You are indeed a newbie expert. Why can't you accept what was presented as some nice work? Post some photos of what you've done if it's as good or better than Custer55's stuff.

[Custer55]

OMG> What a ton of work. Great job. But for me I'd never take on such a project. Not when the battery can fit behind the seat so well. When tri five owners deck the trunk with mdf and customize it they just leave a door there or allow the entire piece to pop out so they can access amps, batteries, etc.. But I think as far as originality you take the prize. I've not seen one done this way, ever. Even I thought of it and then thought of the work involved and quickly decided to put my battery holder behind the seat. I've seen dents in these tire holders a plenty. As long as you don't take it off road you will be fine I think. Great metal working. Be sure to add yourself a cut off while you're at it.

i don't think I will ever be going off road with this car. At least not on purpose. Since i did the C4 conversion and have different front and rear size tires a spare tire is not a good option anymore either. I just keep a couple cans of fix a flat and some tire plugs in the trunk. I will have a cut off switch by the battery, that is what the bulkhead I am working on now is for. You are correct that it is a lot of work, more than i thought is would be but everything usually is when it comes to making custom parts. One of the great things about the internet is the ability to learn from others and apply it to your own projects. I learn a lot from what others do and from my own mistakes.
Brian

[Custer55]

You are indeed a newbie expert. Why can't you accept what was presented as some nice work? Post some photos of what you've done if it's as good or better than Custer55's stuff.

Thanks Rick!
I will be needing some help from you in the next few years as I recently picked up an LT1 engine and trans from a 95 Firebird that I plan to swap in sometime in the next few years.
I need to save some money and parts before I start the swap so it probably won't happen until the winter of 2019 / 2020.
Brian

[55 Tony]

Looks great Brian. Even the last small piece you show must take some careful hammering to do it without kinking it. I picture me trying the same thing and needing to cut little pie slices out, bend it, then weld. Glad you have the patience. I don't and my car shows that. :0

[Custer55]

Finally got some time and ambition to work on my project again this weekend. Didn't get a lot done but at least it's forward progress.

Finished fitting up the bulkhead for the cut off switch and got is screwed in position for welding it in later.



I hadn't planned on a separate plate for the cut off switch but with the proximity to the end of the spare tire wheel that is the only way to get it in and out easily. You have to take the handle off to bolt the switch to the mount hole so it would be nearly impossible to get the handle screwed back on the way I had planned it. I ended up drilling a hole in the bulkhead big enough for the switch handle to go through and making a plate the switch will mount to that will then mount to the bulkhead with 4 bolts.





Now I just need to drill the holes out bigger in the 4 corners of the mount plate and the bulkhead and weld some nuts on the back side of the bulkhead and it will be good to go.
Brian

[Custer55]

Progress Update

The next step was to weld some nuts to the back of the switch bulk head and drill out the mount plate holes so the switch can be easily installed or removed.




Next I located the hole positions for the positive battery cable & negative cable stud. The plan is to weld the threaded stud to the spare tire well so I can run the ground cable from the battery to the stud which will be grounded to the body once welded back in place. Then I will run a cable from the stud to the frame near the outside of the tire well. At the front of the car the engine will then be grounded to both the frame and the body so the body and frame will act in combo as the battery ground.



Next up was to sand the paint off the inside and outside and get the metal ready for a skim coat of filler to get the bulkhead and battery tray welded in place for good.




Ground stud welded in place


Got some primer on the areas that will be hard to access once they are welded in place.



After drilling holes for the spot welds I positioned the bulkhead and battery tray to locate the spots that would need the primer ground off for the welding.


Back in place ready to spot weld in (finally!!)


All spot welded in and welds ground smooth


The next step will be to give the outside some body filler, priming and sanding before repainting it to match the rest of the underside of the car, which is just a satin black. Another coat of primer on the inside and get it spot welded back in the car. I may weld all the holes in the flange shut too as the holes are pretty big for spot welding from using a spot weld cutter to get it out in the first place.
Brian

[Custer55]

Progress Update

I did end up welding the holes in the flange shut to re-drill smaller holes for spot welding back in the car. I ended up using 3/16" holes after testing a couple of different sizes.


After a couple rounds of body filler and sanding ready for primer.


After a couple rounds of priming and sanding ready for a couple of coats of satin black




Painted satin black with spot weld holes drilled and ready to go back in the trunk.


Screwed back in the trunk ready for spot welding.


All spot welded back in the trunk. The 3/16" holes worked well as there wasn't any paint that burned off the newly painted spare tire well. I will need to touch of the flange on the bottom side of the trunk though.


After a coat of satin white and applying seam sealer around the outside edge on the inside.

Next up will be to drill and tap or add nutserts to the flange for the battery cover which may be a temporary piece of plywood until a get a bead roller to make the permanent cover. Then a final coat of paint on the inside and run the battery cable to the front and the grounds to the body and frame.
Brian

[BeachGirl55]

looks great and nice design

[BamaNomad]

Great use of your spare tire well and VERY nice work, as usual, Brian!

[Custer55]

Progress Update

The next step in the project was to make a cover for the tire well / battery tray. Used a couple of pieces of paper taped together for this. If I had been thinking this would have been way easier to make the pattern before I welded the tire well back in the trunk.


I did decide to just make the cover out of 1/4" plywood I had leftover from a previous project since I haven't purchased a bead roller yet. I guess one advantage of the plywood is that it is nonconductive so no worries about shorting out across the battery terminals.


With holes to mount the cover drilled around the perimeter of the cover I drilled and added a couple of 10-32 nutserts to hold the cover in place so I could drill the remaining holes for the nutserts to match the locations in the cover.


The rest of the holes drilled.


All the nutserts installed and a final coat of paint on the tire wheel and the cover painted to match. If i had to do it again I probably would use a few less screws to hold the cover down, kind of a pain to remove and install with 17 screws holding it down but I guess I won't be taking it on or off that much once it is all done.


Trunk mat trimmed out bigger to allow access to the cover screws


Cover in place. At least I can get at the cut off switch easily with the cover in place.


Next will be adding grounding points to the frame and measuring what I need for battery and ground cables and getting those ordered so I can finally wrap this project up.
Brian

[Custer55]

Progress Update

---

While I'm on a roll here I will update where I am at tonight. Pretty much done and ready to roll for Back to the 50's later this week on trunk mounted battery power. Didn't get pictures of everything but I got a couple of grounding points added to the frame in the front and rear. In the rear I added a 3/8" nutsert in the frame just below the ground stud in the spare tire well, plus a bolt through the frame near the bumper mounts. Those connect to the tire well stud with a 1/0 battery cable plus a heavy duty ground strap. Up front I drilled and tapped the top of the frame just below where the original battery box is and ran a 1/0 battery cable from there to the bell housing and a heavy duty ground strap from the bellhousing to the body in addition to the original ground strap from the starter to the body.

Here is all the cables I ordered from Battery Cables USA. Very nice cables for the price (about $140. including the shipping). All made up to order with crimped on terminals and color matched adhesive lined shrink wrap at all the terminals. 1/0 on all the main cables plus I ordered a 6 gauge cable that will bypass the cut off switch for memory functions. Way overkill for what I need now but way easier to add a heavier cable now than later.


Mock up of the cables to the cut off switch. the 6 gauge will connect to the hot side of the switch so it will always have power when the battery is connected. the 1/0 cable which will go to the starter solenoid and the 6 gauge always hot cable will run together with a nylon split loom covering both of them.


After exiting the tire well through a grommet I ran the cables up over the rear end and down the right side frame rail supported every 9" to 10" with 1" rubber lined clamps.




At the front I removed the lower part of the inner fender so I could route the cables up into the engine compartment. The 1/0 and 6 guage split here. The 1/0 I routed behind the body mount brace and the 6 gauge up to a junction block that will mount to the inner fender.


With the stock battery box removed I made a 3/16" aluminum plate which bolts to 2 of the original battery box locations and the original battery ground location to mount the Ford style solenoid and future junction blocks as needed. As you can see I ordered the cable to the starter to long so I had to loop it. I made a short jumper wire at the starter from the battery terminal to the start terminal. Then the shortened wires that originally went to the starter go the the Ford solenoid. I drilled and tapped the aluminum plate and threaded bolts in from the backside so I have mounting studs to bolt down the solenoid. If you look close you can see where the junction block for the memory wire is mounted to the inner fender just below the hood hinge and heater box blower motor. I had to make a temporary junction block out of a MSD spark plug wire loom separator cuz the one I ordered still hadn't arrived when I needed it. Of course then the next day it arrived so I will eventually replace my homemade one but for now it is fine.


Here is all the cables hooked up in the spare tire well. Car starts just as good as ever or maybe a bit better. I have a full 14 volts anywhere I check with my volt meter up in the engine compartment so all my grounds and battery cables are doing their job.


Now on to the next project as soon as I figure out what that will be.
Brian

[WagonCrazy]

Nicely done Brian! Clean install. You'll probably never have electrical/grounding/starter related issues now. Well documented too. Thank you.

[Custer55]

Nicely done Brian! Clean install. You'll probably never have electrical/grounding/starter related issues now. Well documented too. Thank you.

Thanks! You never now how well things will actually work until you try it but is all working great so far.