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Thread: At the track video

  1. #21
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    I was told that if I can go from idle to WOT without a problem, it will sort of act like a higher stall converter compared to revving it a bit with the brakes on. Does that make any sense? Would that also help the car hook?
    Well it won't make it stall higher, but it may work better for you. Or it may not. No reason not to try it. It's called "driving through the converter". Doing it that way is often less consistent than revving against the brakes. Starting line technique is always a variable you can experiment with. This would be a valid experiment if you get a higher stall converter too. Variations on that would be to vary what rpm you leave against the brake. Another similar set of variables is introduced by using a transbrake.

    There is no pat answer to this, you can only find out by experimenting.

  2. #22
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Im no expert, but I will put in my .02. There is a difference between a drag radials and slicks. First and foremost track prep has a lot to do with the selection of tire. Drag radials dont need a heavy burnout, where slicks do. Air pressure on a drag radial is different too. The car squats but it doesn't stay on the back tire. Need to slow the rebound down.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JT56 View Post
    Im no expert, but I will put in my .02. There is a difference between a drag radials and slicks. First and foremost track prep has a lot to do with the selection of tire. Drag radials dont need a heavy burnout, where slicks do. Air pressure on a drag radial is different too. The car squats but it doesn't stay on the back tire. Need to slow the rebound down.
    Maybe you should try talking to some. I have, it was confirmed to me by Mickey Thompson factory reps at the Nationals at HPT Topeka their ET drag slicks are a low heat traction compound. They said all the big smokey burn guys were doing was improving sales.

  4. #24
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    From Mickey Thompsons Homepage:


    ET Drag®

    A PROVEN DRAG STRIP WINNER


    A Proven Drag Strip Winner
    Real world research and development give M/T® slicks the edge over competitive brands. Engineered for maximum traction and consistent ET’s with superior construction and compounding for nearly every drag race application.
    Multiple compounds and sizes
    Compounded for maximum traction
    Requires little or no burnout
    Engineered for consistent performance

  5. #25
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    Wow! I'm going to try just a little burnout with my Hoosiers and see what happens. Hopefully tomorrow.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
    Wow! I'm going to try just a little burnout with my Hoosiers and see what happens. Hopefully tomorrow.
    That is actually what Hoosier recommends on their site. A little more than M/T.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    That is actually what Hoosier recommends on their site. A little more than M/T.
    2. What is the proper burn out procedure for Hoosier drag tires?
    ANSWER: With Hoosier's "high traction" compounds, we have found the following burn out procedure to work for most cars. We recommend rolling through the water box to wet the tires. Start the burn out. Once the tires start to "haze", start to slow the burn out down and proceed to the start line. The goal of the burn out is to clean all debris off the tires and heat just the surface of the tread. Again this procedure will work for most cars, but fine tuning the procedure for your car may be needed.

    12. What is normal wear for a drag tire?
    ANSWER: There is no set degree of "normal" wear. If you feel you are getting to much wear, look to shorten the burnout time in the water box. Too much burnout will shorten the tread life of the tires. The softer the compound the more wear you would see given the same amount of burnout time. Most wear to the tread life of a drag tire comes from too much time in the burnout procedure.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  8. #28
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    There's a lot of different ways to do burnouts -not all of them are good and not all are bad either. My preference is that the first one of the day is a bit longer than normal and I keep the rest of them rather short. I have never seen any difference in my short times melting the tires versus just getting them clean and warmed up.
    Remember the "13"


  9. #29
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    The one way I was told is to have someone in the back to tell you when the they are flinging little gumballs. At the track I told whoever was there to tell me how long to do a burnout and last time I had a bit too much air pressure. Just 4 or 5 times and I can see where the center is worn more already. Wish this topic had come up sooner. Better late than never anyway, I'm not near the cords yet, I hope.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  10. #30
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    I always thought the water was for pussys with no horse power or no gear or a decent convertor, but I am an asshole. I probably do more the first pass than 2nd or 3rd myself.

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