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Thread: My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

  1. #111
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Hello Everyone,

    I just received the new carpet for my '55, I was wondering if it has to be "glued" to the floor or does it just float and get held down by the seats and the sill plates?

    I also ordered the Ciadella seat covers and all of the door panels. I'm having them done as the original '55 Belair 2 door hard top style, but they're going to be in black vinyl and the '56 black cloth. The door panels will be all black. I don't need them right now but I had some extra money so I went for it!!! Ciadella is a busy shop, it's going to be 4 months until they're done!! I cant wait!!!

    20220723_092347_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Troy; 07-27-2022 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #112
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    If the carpet is 'warm' (from lying in the sun for a few?) it should LIE down on your floor properly. If it doesn't then a little 3M spray adhesive in the offending areas will help it, but I would not overdo that...

  3. #113
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    Thanks for the pic Troy, their stuff looks amazing. I am now waiting on a quote... hehe

  4. #114
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Hello Again,

    One other thing, my son finally got all of the floor pans and shifter hole patch done, so now I have to figure out how to get the body off the frame with what tools I have! Wish me luck!!!

  5. #115
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy View Post
    Hello Again,

    One other thing, my son finally got all of the floor pans and shifter hole patch done, so now I have to figure out how to get the body off the frame with what tools I have! Wish me luck!!!
    Something that will help a lot, is to REMOVE everything that is removable from the body (including interior, glass, etc) in order to lighten the body. I've removed/reinstalled bodies from frames a few times by myself using only a floor jack - using the jack under the floor of the body and spreading the load with a large board (a length of 2x12 will work ) but the floor should be strong to allow that.

    Other keys: Get the body elevated above the frame as far as possible to slip a 4x4 or landscape timber between body and frame and support the timber on each eng on supports; I've used a stack of 2 or 3 concrete blocks with a 2x8 board on top. You will need such a timber support on each end of the body. Once the body is raised as high as you can get it above the frame, then remove the tires/wheels to lower the frame before sliding it out. The frame will slide out more easily from the rear of the body than the front,so think about that when you are planning the task.

    I also helped a friend take a '67 Corvette Coupe off it's frame (and all the glass/interior/etc was still installed). Despite my reservations on doing it that way, six of us lifted the body up off the frame. I had perhaps the worst position at the rear wheel well and I thought I was going to die before we walked it over to a support he had set up. and of course, AFTER we had lifted it, he discovered he hadn't disconnected the shifter so we had to hold it even longer! If it hadn't been too nice a car, I'm pretty sure I'd have dropped it at that point. My back took months to recover!

  6. #116
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Thanks Bama!!!!

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