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Thread: My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

  1. #21
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Tabasco, Yes what you said about Epoxy primer is correct (ie. you can do bodywork/smooothing with filler, etc) over it.

    ALL Epoxy paints that I've seen or used are two part (2-K if you prefer that term), but I like calling two part paints as two part paints because it's more clear what one means, meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.

    Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).

    One can even add an urethane activator/hardener to 'straight enamel' paints which will also make that paint more durable.

  2. #22
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    meaning that you add an activator, catalyst, or 'hardener' which speeds up drying and makes the paint more durable.
    The hardeners, catalysts, activators, etc. used for 2K paints/primers do not speed drying. They cause or enhance a chemical reaction with the paint that causes the molecules to cross-link making it more durable. In fact, to be a "2K paint" there must be a chemical reaction, not just changing the paint in some way like adding thinner, etc. The urethane basecoat in BC/CC is typically not 2K but you can add a hardener if you want to. The clearcoat is 2K urethane.

    Urethane paints are two part paints but are not epoxy paints; Urethane paints use an 'activator' (or hardener if you will).
    Urethane is a different polymer than epoxy and requires a different activator. What happens with epoxies is the same thing that happens with urethanes, but different chemicals are used to cause the molecular cross-linking.

    It's similar to plastics. Thermoset plastics harden by chemically cross-linking the molecules and the material can't be melted down and re-used. A thermoplastic can be ground up and re-used since there is no chemical reaction during manufacture of the part.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
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  3. #23
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    If you add catalyst to the old school acrylic enamel paint, it actually slows drying by quite a lot. And that crap didn't dry very fast to start with.

    Fortunately that's not an option any more if you want an OEM color. I guess you could add it to whatever colors Rustoleum or similar products come in.

    With 2k paint or primer, the catalyst is required if you ever want it to dry. You don't just shoot it without catalyst.

    Modern urethane with catalyst dries to the touch almost as quickly as old school lacquer.

    The catalyst for epoxy primer is not heavily laden with isocyanates (like the urethane paint) - but that doesn't mean you should spray it without proper PPE protection/procedures.

  4. #24
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Hello All,

    Not much done yet, still trying to finish up my garage. I just finished putting my blast cabinet together and adding updates, sealed all joints, added foot pedal and new quality nozzle. Just a few things left to do in the garage. As I said in an earlier post I have some questions that I'm not 100% sure of.

    1. I'm putting in side mounts for the engine and a new transmission cross member. I haven't measure where the engine is. Question is... is the crank center line centered between the frame rails or is there some offset one way or another? Same with the out put shaft of the tranny?

    2. Now that my Blast cabinet is done, can anyone give me some input on what blast media do you use and what's good for different materials?

    Thanks for your input!!! More to come!!!

  5. #25
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I use glass bead for everything but mostly because that's what I have in my cabinet and I'm too lazy to swap it out.. I have some walnut shells that I want to try... sometime..
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 12-07-2019 at 07:30 PM.

  6. #26
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Well All,

    Getting ready to start soon!! My plan is to start restoring and updating component systems like rear end/suspension, front end/suspension, then pull the frame and restore and update it. Then to cleanup the under carriage and set the body back on. I'm not doing a restoration or a total custom just a fun driver. I don't want to blow it apart because I don't know if I'll ever get it back together. I've decided on Toyota Voodoo Blue for the main body w/ white on the trunk and roof. The interior is going to be mostly black probably a Ciadella kit installed by myself.

    I have a few questions for the knowledgeable. I looked at SPI's website and they don't mix base coats, so who would you go to, to get your paints mixed? Is something like Toyota Voodoo Blue copy righted and Joe blow can't get it or have it mixed? I'm sure I'll have more questions and I'll ask them as they come up!!!

  7. #27
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    Most any automotive paint store should be able to mix the Toyota color in whatever brand of base coat they sell (PPG, Axalta, Glasurit, Martin Senour, etc. Ask them if they can make you a spray out sample to verify the color. Spray it out on a sample card they can provide. You could even clear the sample.

  8. #28
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Well here's my first SMALL project, I stripped painted and resealed my new differential, not much but this Covid 19 and the weather have really put a damper on my progress! Fortunately for me my work is allowing everyone that can to work from home. So that's good! Anyway here's my rear.

    55-Diff.jpg

    I don't know what I'm doing wrong in the posting pics, anyone got input for me?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Troy; 04-05-2020 at 02:59 PM.

  9. #29
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    Looks pretty slick. What paint did you use on the 3rd member housing?

  10. #30
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Thanks Rick, it's Dupli-Color Engine enamel, DE1651 Cast Iron.

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