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Thread: My '55 Belair 2 Door Hardtop Build (sort of

  1. #71
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    I have a question, this weekend I'm planning on putting my engine and transmission back in so I can mount my new tranny cross member. Am I right in thinking that the axis center line of the engine/transmission should be parallel to the pinion shaft of the differential in the car's static position? If not what should it be? Thanks!!

  2. #72
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    Yes the engine/transmission shaft centerline should be parallel to the pinion. At ride height and with the axle torque loaded in the manner the car will be primarily driven. Expect the pinion to come up slightly under normal driving. And a lot if racing. Less if you have some kind of traction bar.

    A better way to do it would be to put the engine/transmission shaft centerline down 4° front to back, which is the factory position. This gives you nice clearance to the floor and transmission hump for everything but the biggest transmissions. Then check the pinion angle at the axle later on when the car is more complete. If it's a stock axle you shouldn't have to change anything.

  3. #73
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Thanks Rick,

    When my dad built the first cross member he put the trans out put in the same position so when I took it out this time I measured so I'll just put it back where it came from.

  4. #74
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    That only works if the engine hasn't been moved forward and the transmission is the same length as previously. When your dad did it, and again this time. I suggest you measure if any doubt.

    Did you know that most smart phones have a capability to be a digital level? Or you can purchase one pretty cheap these days.

  5. #75
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Well I Put the engine and transmission in and the the carb mounting surface is up in the front about 3/4 degree. I can't really call it done as I have the trunk full of parts and the whole front end is off. Fortunately the transmission mount has the capability to be shimmed so I'm pretty happy with everything. One good thing is that the new engine mounts moved the engine forward about 1/4" so now the transmission dip stick doesn't hit the firewall!!!

  6. #76
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Troy,
    Dude! That alone makes the engine and trans swap worth while!
    Sorry, I couldn't help myself (but should have).
    Good job! Doug

  7. #77
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    Looks like it is coming along good. Nice detail on the parts you have done. Steve

  8. #78
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Kick Down Switch.jpg

    Does anyone recognize this transmission kick down switch? My dad got it for me when we put in the TH400, I think it's from a Cadillac because that's where he worked most of his life. Now he's old and can't remember. Thanks for any help!!

  9. #79
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Hello Everyone,

    I stripped out my wiring harness, the front seat, and the carpet and this is what I found!!! Yikes, fortunately it's just the front pans. The rest is solid. My question is... who makes the best replacement floor pans? Also I would like to replace the whole front section if possible. The pans and the hump because it has the old cutouts when the car had a 4 speed. Thanks for your help!!

    Passengers-Floor-Pan.jpg
    Drivers-Floor-Pan.jpg

  10. #80
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Well I got the passenger front floor pan out, still have a little work to trim the floor to match the new pans. I bought the pans from Danchuck and I'm really pleased with them!! It took me a few hours to do it as my tools didn't work as good as I wanted and I wanted to be careful not to damage the original metal. I did however catch the car on fire...I used a grinder for one part and I looked up and the jute dash pad was smoldering!!! I ripped it out and threw it out on the drive way. If I feel good and ready to go I think I may try to get the new one fit in then I can get my son Troy Jr. to weld it in!! Anyway you all have a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

    Floor-Pan.1.jpg
    Floor-Pan.2.jpg

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