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Thread: Cribbing

  1. #1
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    Cribbing

    Hey All,

    I searched for Cribbing that people made to support their Tri-Five. I'm looking for Photo's and/or designs of cribs to both support car under the four wheels and also to support the body above the frame when separated. Anybody got anything? Thanks!!!

  2. #2
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    I had to crib the body and my frame a lot trying to get it on and off a trailer, and on to a frame. For the most part I used two 9 foot 4x4's, and 16 concrete blocks, which are pretty cheap, and useful for other stuff. I even used them as a jig for a big table welding project.
    IMG_2954.JPGIMG_2966.JPGIMG_3321.JPGIMG_3326.JPGIMG_3330.JPG

  3. #3
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    I lifted the body under my 4 post lift with straps. Measured the frame as lifted and faded up with scrap tubing (all different sizes) to support the body at most of the same mounting points. Bolted it down. It rolls around on heavy 5” casters. Did all the body work and paint on the dolly. After complete and body back on the frame cashed in the steel dolly (all cut up) for scrap.

    if one has a convertible more bracing may be necessary.

  4. #4
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    I had to crib the body and my frame a lot trying to get it on and off a trailer, and on to a frame. For the most part I used two 9 foot 4x4's, and 16 concrete blocks, which are pretty cheap, and useful for other stuff. I even used them as a jig for a big table welding project.
    IMG_2954.JPGIMG_2966.JPGIMG_3321.JPGIMG_3326.JPGIMG_3330.JPG
    RD, I too use cinder blocks as you did when I need to block up a car 'in position', BUT... before I put a cross-tie on the block and load it, I cut a 16" length of 2x8 to place on the top of each stack of cinder blocks to ensure the load is distributed across the entire block-top surface... and make sure your blocks are evenly stacked...

  5. #5
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    A heavy duty cherry picker will lift the whole body no problem. I used it plenty of times before I got the 4 post lift. Just fab your self a method to suspend the straps or chain which ever you have access to. The small lift jack with blocks and 4x4 scares the b-Jesus out of me. Not mobile to move it around.

    A body cradle can be fabricated from wood available at Lowes or Home Depot on the cheap. Casters too. Body bolted to it would be so secure. Also it would make it so much easier to work on. This would also allow you to put the body/car on a real car trailer vs the wagon type for mobility.
    Last edited by Gmvette; 01-15-2020 at 07:05 AM.

  6. #6
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    That's a good point, gmvette... the stationary blocked up body is certainly NOT mobile! I've only used stationary blocking to a body high enough to remove from the original frame, mounting/unmounting to/from a rotisserie, and reinstallation onto a frame... and I did all that before I had a lift and I did it all by myself using a floor jack! So one's methods are limited by their tools and resources~!

  7. #7
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I use two cherry pickers to move the bodies off and on the frame. One in the rear, one in the front similar to what RD showed. However, since I don't have hood hinge holes in my firewall I've been using the cowl body mounts to attach a chain to. I've done the same thing on the HEMI55. That said, if all you want to do is hold the body off the frame and roll/slide the frame out, blocking it up works fine.

    I don't even know what "cribbing" is and have never heard the word used.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  8. #8
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    I don't even know what "cribbing" is and have never heard the word used.
    What you see here is an example. Basically it is temporarily stabilizing/supporting a large or heavy object after you lift it or prepare to move it.

    The concrete blocks are a poor way to support a load. They are very poor in compression load capacity. In this example they don't have enough footprint to have decent lateral stability either.

  9. #9
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    I wouldn't crawl under it, but for what I was doing the blocks were plenty strong and stable for what I was doing. I gave it a shake test every step of the way, and each block is holding up less that 300lbs per corner, not a whole building, or a complete car. The only scary part was rolling the chassis under it up that high on blocks, but I was careful. Didn't really have a better option for the moment, but it worked fine.

  10. #10
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    The concrete blocks are a poor way to support a load. They are very poor in compression load capacity. In this example they don't have enough footprint to have decent lateral stability either.
    They only hold up houses and large commercial buildings, so it's possible they can't support a car body that might weigh 800 pounds.

    "As per standards published in 2003 by ASTM, an international building standards non-profit, all concrete blocks must support at least 1,700 pounds of weight per square inch (PSI). This standard only describes minimum requirements, however."

    I don't see how lateral stability is any worse than 4 jackstands. I wouldn't hesitate to use CONCRETE blocks (not cinder blocks) to support a body. They need to be used with the holes vertically oriented for strength. I'd even work under the car supported that way. No worse than jackstands.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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