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Thread: 39 Ford Project

  1. #171
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    that Ford just keeps looking better and better.. Most excellent metal work Brian!~

  2. #172
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    that Ford just keeps looking better and better.. Most excellent metal work Brian!~
    Thanks Gary, I'll be pretty happy when all the rust is fixed on this thing though!!

  3. #173
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Fantasic work there. And kudos to you for taking lots of progress pics and posting here. This will be so rewarding, once you're beyond all this slogging with rusty sheet metal. Keep at it. It's coming along nicely.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #174
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Progress Update

    I have been working on the passenger side cowl area so It's pretty much a repeat of what I did on the drivers side. More rust in some parts and a bit less in others but pretty much the same process to make the repairs.



    After removal and cutting out the rust this side needed more repairs than the drivers side. I ended up cutting out and replacing a couple more spots while doing the patches. I did cut this side out a bit different than the drivers side so It was harder to get it out but easier to put it back together.



    With enough new metal tacked in place ready to take it back out and complete the repairs on the welding table.



    All finished up and ready to re-install once a few more rust areas are repaired on the upper part of the cowl.



    View from the other side sitting on my welding table.



    With the lower cowl out again and another rusty area cut out and ready for a patch.



    Patch panel for that area fitted up and tacked in place. At the bottom of the cowl by the door opening you can see the next area that will need to be repaired.



    All welded up and finished out. Looking much better now.



    View from the inside of the repair. Rust in the lower corner is obvious in this shot as well.

  5. #175
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Update Continued





    Lower corner cut out and a patch formed and fitted up to replace the rusted area. This was a tricky one to form and get fitted up but I got it pretty close.


    Patch tacked in place. At this point I had to take the running board back off to get to the lower seam welded up.



    All welded up and finished out. Other than the door jam area this will all be behind the fender eventually but at least I know the rust hole is gone.



    So with all those repairs done and some primer on the areas that you can't get to later the lower cowl is back in place for good. At this point I put the door back in place as well to check the fit which was still good.



    And the last patch for the cowl was the little bump out for the hood side tacked in place.
    The area below the patch the cowl had a slight bulge in it where the fender meets up with it so I had to do a little bit of shrinking with the torch and the shrinking disk so the fender will fit better now.



    All welded up and finished out and the hole drilled for the rubber bumper for the hood side.



    And the last area to repair was between the upper and side cowl. This side just had a couple of small pin holes so I was able to just weld them up vs the patches I did on the driver side. This ends up almost completely hidden by the hood hinge as well. With all that done I can finish up on the firewall, which is just a lot of welding and grinding to finish out the new sections I had to add to make it fit correctly. After that is in I can do the floor boards and tunnel area although before I weld any of that in place I might mock up an engine and transmission to make sure that all will fit together before anything is welded in place for keeps.
    Brian

  6. #176
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    Fantasic work there. And kudos to you for taking lots of progress pics and posting here. This will be so rewarding, once you're beyond all this slogging with rusty sheet metal. Keep at it. It's coming along nicely.
    Thanks Paul. Just posted a couple more updates.

  7. #177
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Progress Update

    So after a couple of days of welding and grinding the firewall modifications are finally done.


    Here is the view from the inside.


    And the view from the outside (engine bay side)


    And screwed back in place to check the fit. Fits really good now compared to what it was. The piece in the lower right corner was supplied with the firewall kit that will need to be welded in place once the firewall is installed for good.


    To get ready to install the new floorboards I cut out the majority of the old rusty ones. At this point I decided it would probably be a good idea to set up the motor mounts and tranny mounts while the floorboards were out of the way.
    Also I can make sure the floorboards and tunnel will clear the transmission that way as well.


    With the factory x frame center removed ready to do and engine and transmission mock up.
    They must have built the frames from the center out at the factory because after drilling out about 30 rivets I still had to use the plasma cutter to cut up the center piece to get it out.


    Using an old Chevy block and a 4L60E (700R4) I have for another project to set up the motor and transmission mounts. Not sure what transmission I will eventually use in this, but if this tranny fits just about anything else I could use should fit. Here I have it pretty close to where it should end up other than being way to low on the transmission end.


    Here you can see why the transmission won't go up where it belongs. The end of the tail shaft just fits between the stock x member but the trans pan is way to wide to fit.
    I looked at a couple of different kits you can buy to make room for a 700R4 but I wasn't crazy about the design or the cost (about $350. and up) of any of them.


    So here is what I decided to do. I am making new rails for the middle of the x member to widen it out enough to fit the size of the 4L60E. I have most of the materials needed left over from previous projects so that was a plus as well.
    First step was to cut the outer section of the rails out and weld tabs to the ends to bolt them into the original frame.
    The frame has a slight curve to it from front to back so this was the easiest way to match the factory shape.


    Here I have the top and bottom pieces added to tie it in to the original x member frame rail. The top and bottom pieces are just 1/8" flat stock. 1 1/2" on the top and 1 1/4" on the bottom. I have the bottom one to the outside to leave more clearance to the transmission on the inside.


    Back out on my welding table to finish up on the welding and grinding. I did as much of the welding as possible bolted in place on the frame to minimize any distortion from welding. I will also clamp it down to the table when welding as well. I learned the hard way how much distortion you can get if things are not clamped down and to be patient with letting things cool down as you go.
    So that is where I left off today.
    Brian














  8. #178
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Super work Brian!

    (from an admirer of your dedication and skill!)..

  9. #179
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    Very nice.

  10. #180
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    I find it interesting that this site only attracts the guys doing higher end builds.

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