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Thread: 39 Ford Project

  1. #271
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    Outstanding progress bringing this old metal back. Keep the updates coming. We appreciate your hard work here.
    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Outstanding work...
    Quote Originally Posted by bigblock View Post
    I love seeing your craftsmen ship what a great job. Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress.
    Thanks guys,
    Will have another update soon!

  2. #272
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Update part 1

    So work continues to eliminate all the rust. I will have to celebrate when that day comes!!



    Here I have the bead rolling pattern laid out for the passenger side piece. I tried to get these pieces of 18 gauge cut as accurately and square as possible so that I would be able to make both sides the same by measuring for the bends off the edges of the sheets.



    Here is the passenger side with the panels rolled in. The new Eastwood dies (on the bead roller) worked better than the dies that came with the Woodward Fab Super bead roller (on the panel) as being narrower they are much easier to see where you are going on the corners and don't mark the sheet as much.



    With the first 2 bends made. I did the upper bend on my bending brake by making several small bends to get the radius I wanted. The lower bends I did on the bead roller with a 1/2" radius tipping die and a lower poly die that came in the Eastwood set. The jog on the lower bend I couldn't get to come out as well as I wanted so I just cut it out and will weld in a small piece.



    Here it is with the small piece welded in place. In the upper right of the photo I had marked where I would have needed to bend in the corner to match the original shape. In the end I decided to just leave it as is vs trying to match the original shape.



    Here I have the two bends at the top done with my test piece next to it. Again the first bend was a several small bends on the brake and the jog bend was done on the bead roller.



    This is the drivers side piece with the bump for the gas tank filler neck hammered to shape. I used my nylon mallet and shot bag to get the shape needed.



    After some hammer and dolly work I have it looking less like a golf ball.



    From the bottom side of the panel you can see my layout for the larger radius bends on the brake. On the 2nd panel I figured out to take the total number of bends divided by the total degrees of bend needed. Then I used my digital angle finder on the panel as I made the bends. That made it much easier to get the correct total bend and radius of the bends consistent.



    Drivers side fit up and trimmed to add the small piece to weld in at the bottom bend.



    And all fitted up ready to tack weld the two pieces together.
    (to be continued below)

  3. #273
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Update part 2





    So after tacking the 2 together I was able to remove the whole thing to finish the welding process. This made it much easier than doing it in the car.


    All welded up and put in place to check the fit. Looks good to me so time to cut away a bunch of rusty metal.


    Most of the rusty metal gone. Good riddance to all of that.


    As a precaution today I decided to check the clearance between my new panel and the gas tank. So I pulled the old tank off the scrap pile and set in place with a couple of pieces of crumpled then loosely rolled tin foil on top of the tank. (Saw this tip on Bitchin Rides).


    Then set the panel in place and pushed down firmly on it so it would crush down on the tin foil.


    Then removed the panel again and the tin foil (standing on edge in this photo) clearly shows how much clearance there is. It measures 5/16" to 3/8" on the tin foil pieces so I think it will be fine.
    My original plan was to leave about 3/4" of the original trunk pan in place to plug weld the new panel to but it wasn't in as good of shape as I hoped so those will have to be removes as well and new pieces fabricated to replace them.
    So that will be the next project. Stay tuned.
    Brian


  4. #274
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Brian,
    Nice work, as always (understatement)! I appreciated the tin foil tip - I see opportunities where that will come in most handy!
    Thanks, Doug

  5. #275
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Your bead-rolling looks great. The car is really coming together and it's amazing how many new pieces are required.

    I always wondered why people call aluminum foil "tin foil". It's not made of tin . I guess it's kinda like "pop" and "soda". I have a glob of modeling clay in my shop that I sometimes use to check clearances.
    Last edited by chevynut; 05-09-2023 at 08:39 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #276
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    Tin foil was made from tin, and that's what was used before aluminum foil.

  7. #277
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Tin foil was made from tin, and that's what was used before aluminum foil.
    No shit RD? You must be like another Einstein. Tin foil hasn't been in use for almost 100 years. Why call aluminum foil, made of ALUMINUM, "tin foil" when it's not made of tin?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #278
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Belair-o;67057]Hi Brian,
    Nice work, as always (understatement)! I appreciated the tin foil tip - I see opportunities where that will come in most handy!
    Thanks, Doug[/QUOTE

    Thanks Doug, The aluminum foil worked great for checking the clearance to the tank. I'm sure I'll be using that trick again.

    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Your bead-rolling looks great. The car is really coming together and it's amazing how many new pieces are required.
    Thanks Lazlo, The bead rolling is coming out pretty good except for trying to line up the spot I start and end the panels. I may have to try starting in a different spot so it's not as noticeable if they don't line up exactly. Also need to figure out a good way to pre-stretch the panel areas to minimize the distortion.

  9. #279
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Progress update

    Slow but sure I am making progress on the trunk floor repairs. After getting the old flange from the original trunk floor removed I made some new flanges to install the new panels.



    Here is the flange for the drivers side. Just a 1 1/2" wide piece of 18 gauge bent into a 90 and then shaped with a shrinker and stretcher. The one bend was way to much material to shrink so I first took out a pie cut, welded it back together and then fine tuned it with the shrinker. The little hump for the filler neck notch was the hardest part to get right as it needed to stretched and shrunk all in a small area.



    Welded in place and tied into the thicker original piece that went under the trunk floor in the body mount just to the right of the filler neck notch.



    And the flange on the passenger side welded in. Here you can see the whole thicker (16 gauge or 14 gauge) original brace that went under the floor for the body mount. Before cutting out the floor at the body mounts I had welded in a strip of metal to tie in the original brace to the inner fender so nothing would move when I cut out the rusted metal in the body mount area.



    All the old rusty metal is gone at this point. I had to take out more than I had planned on the drivers side over the rear end.



    New metal welded in place above the rear end. Because the floor is right on top of the frame in this area It would be nearly impossible to remove and replace the original weld flange without taking the body off the frame. That is not happening at this point so I just cut the old metal out as close as I could get to the inner fender and welded the new piece in as best I could. Once it's all epoxy primed and the seam is sealed up good it should be fine.



    The last 8" or so section between the original metal over the top of the rear end and the new piece I made for over the gas tank area I will be making in 3 pieces. This is the first piece on the drivers side.



    So yesterday morning before forming the piece for the passenger side I decided to try something to make smoothing it out easier. I had a cheap Harbor Freight air gun (think I paid $16. for it) that came with one chisel bit. I used a hole saw to cut out a 1.5" dia. piece of 3/8" flat stock, drilled out the center hole just a bit smaller than the chisel bit shank dia. and cut off the chisel bit. I then chucked the chisel bit shank in the drill press and with the drill press running filed down the shank until I was able to press the 2 together, and then welded them together. Then I put it back in the drill press and used the file and sandpaper to shape and smooth out the flat round part to make a planishing bit for the air hammer.



    To try it out I hammered out a scrap piece of metal on my sand bag.



    After just a few minutes of planishing It for sure smooths it out and the bit held up ok. It would be better if I knew how to heat treat the bit to make it harder and hold up better though. Also It wasn't the easiest to hold the metal over a dolly while using the air hammer with the other hand. Might have to see if I can build a stand with lower dies or just buy one.



    And here is the end piece for the passenger side formed up and smoothed out ready to fit up and weld in place.
    The air hammer worked better than using a hammer and dolly but was hard get in all the tight spots.
    I got this piece welded in place and worked on the center piece today. Will have pictures of that in the next update.
    Brian

  10. #280
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Moving right along there Brian! Looks great. I gotta admit I miss doing all that fabrication work. I had more fun doing that than I have the assembly work on my car.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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