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Thread: 39 Ford Project

  1. #231
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    Tooling up is always a good move. Especially when there's more work to do on cars. Like all that you've done. Great re-use of existing stuff.
    Thanks,
    I did get a couple of springs for the press brake today, so that will make that easier to use. Finally able to get some work done on the 39 today too.
    Brian

  2. #232
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nice job on those tools. I used my new Mittler Brothers bead roller a couple times and the motor crapped out on me. I got the 20 gauge version and it barely does that. They make one with a better motor and drive, and they sell an upgrade kit, but it's like $900.

    I also bought a weld-up press brake similar to the one you built from SWAG Off-Road. It was only like $150 when I bought it and it works great even on 3/8" thick steel. Price has gone up. They make a lot of pretty nice stuff....I have their hydraulic ram kit for my JD3 tube bender that saves a lot of work.

    https://www.swagoffroad.com/products...fMR0fvEAZCxufI
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #233
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Nice job on those tools. I used my new Mittler Brothers bead roller a couple times and the motor crapped out on me. I got the 20 gauge version and it barely does that. They make one with a better motor and drive, and they sell an upgrade kit, but it's like $900.

    I also bought a weld-up press brake similar to the one you built from SWAG Off-Road. It was only like $150 when I bought it and it works great even on 3/8" thick steel. Price has gone up. They make a lot of pretty nice stuff....I have their hydraulic ram kit for my JD3 tube bender that saves a lot of work.

    https://www.swagoffroad.com/products...fMR0fvEAZCxufI
    Thanks,
    I did look at the swagoffroad site. They have nice looking stuff and the prices aren't too bad especially if get the weld it yourself option.

  4. #234
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Progress update

    Finally back to working on the 39 my first project is getting the brake pedal set up before welding the front floor pan in place. I had started on this a while ago and just never got it finished until now.


    This is the original brake and clutch pedal set up for the 39 along with a the 2 mount bracket pieces I made up for the original mount to eventually bolt up to. I won't be using the clutch pedal as I will be using an automatic transmission but will be using the center shaft of the clutch pedal as it holds the brake pedal in place and has the grease zerk to keep it all lubed up.


    Here I have my two brackets bolted up to the original pedal bracket to weld them together in proper alignment.
    I have a jog bend in the one to move the brake pedal over the left about 1 1/4" from stock as it seemed to close to the new wider trans tunnel in the stock position.


    Here it is from another view. The flat piece I made has the original master cylinder 3 bolt pattern and the 4 bolt pattern to bolt up a power brake booster.


    Here it is welded in place in the frame. I added some gussets at the top and bottom to make is stronger where the booster will bolt on. Probably overkill as the original pedal bracket acts as a gusset as well but better safe than sorry.
    On the end of the center shaft where the clutch pedal would have been I made a temp shaft collar just for mock up purposes. The plan is to make a more heavy duty one when I get some heavier tubing on my next trip to the steel supply house.


    View with the original bracket removed.


    View from the engine compartment side. With moving the pedal over the top part of the frame x-member had to be trimmed out to clear the brake pedal in it's new position. I added a gusset on the opposite side to compensate for that.


    So in the process of fitting up the pedal mount and getting the brake pedal in the position I wanted I ended up with to big of a hole in the floor board for the pedal to come through. So this will need to be fixed.


    I ended up cutting the hole in the floor board bigger and made a patch with a hole just big enough for the pedal to go through. I should be able to get a rubber seal that will cover this smaller opening.


    Tack welded in position. The brake pedal just clears the opening at the top now and can go through it's full range of motion with rubbing on anything.


    All welded up and finished out. Now I will need to get a booster and master cylinder ordered so I can properly locate an access door for the master cylinder and possibly one to get to a couple of bolts for the booster and pedal bracket.
    I should have ordered the booster and master before I set all this up but I took good measurements off the booster in my 55 so I am pretty confident everything will fit.
    Brian













  5. #235
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Odds and Ends on a snowy week

    Went to order a brake booster and master cylinder and everything I could find is a week out at best. Nothing I can do but wait I guess so this week between shoveling snow 3 times this week including today and tomorrow morning as well, I got some odds and ends taken care of.



    I did get the front floor boards screwed in place and all the body mount holes located. Also drilled an access hole to get to one of the bolts on the brake pedal bracket easier to get at. Once I get the booster and master I will be able to get that bolted in place and locate an access door for the mater cylinder. Then it can finally be welded in place for keeps.



    The first project of the week was to get the bracket for the cowl vent opening lever off the old firewall and weld in in place on the new firewall. Now I can open and close the vent like the original.



    View from the other side. Still need a handle for the end of the lever as the original is long gone, but after some oil and a bit of grease it works nicely.



    Next up was the hood hinges. They are in decent shape other than the rust pits on the backside and the rivets holding the arms in place had quite a bit of play in them.



    To get the play out of them after making sure the rivets themselves did not need to rotate in the hinge frame, I pushed the rivets up as tight as I could against the frame and then tack welded around the rivet to take out most of the play.



    I then ground the weld out as best I could to make the rivet head look somewhat close to original on the rivet that will be somewhat visible with the hood open. The one closer to the bolt stud won't matter as it will not show when the hinge is bolted in place.



    At the bottom of the photo is the original rubber gasket that went between the cowl and the hinge. Pretty sure this is what caused the rust pitting on the inside of the hinges and the rust holes in the cowl as well. To hopefully eliminate that problem I am replacing the big gasket with rubber washers just where the bolts go so dirt and water can just pass through instead of getting trapped behind the hinges.



    And bolted back in place. Once I get everything coated in epoxy primer I can bolt the hood on and see how they work. Should be much better with most of the play out of the hinge arms.
    (continued below)

  6. #236
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Next up was to get the brackets for the core support rods back on the firewall.


    They were riveted in place originally. I just drilled the bottom holes bigger and welded the top holes in the brackets shut and drilled holes in the top edge of the cowl to plug weld them in place. Looks much neater this way and besides I don't have original style rivets or rivet tools.


    And the last project this week was getting the lower pieces in place to finish off the firewall installation.
    Drivers side tacked and plug welded in place ready to weld up solid.


    All welded up and ground out. This makes the lower cowl section and the body mount just behind the brace super solid.


    And a view from the outside of the car. A little body filler on the upper seam and it will look pretty good.


    And the passenger side fitted up and tacked in place today between shoveling and plowing snow today. More snow coming tonight but I should have time to finish this up tomorrow after more shoveling and plowing. I really am ready for spring!! I should have the new brake booster and master cylinder by Tuesday so then I can get back to that project and then back on the floor boards.
    Brian


  7. #237
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nice work on rebuilding those parts. What kind of booster are you planning to use? I have a new never used dual 7" chrome (or stainless??) one that I bought but don't need it now.

    07290004.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #238
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Thanks, the one I have on order is a 7" single diaphram. Went with that beause of the limited space under the floor. I looked at some dual diaphram but decided against because of the tight space it will have to fit into.
    Thanks for asking though.

  9. #239
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Custer55 View Post
    Thanks, the one I have on order is a 7" single diaphram. Went with that beause of the limited space under the floor. I looked at some dual diaphram but decided against because of the tight space it will have to fit into.
    Thanks for asking though.
    I thought the single 7" booster was basically worthless....that's what everyone told me at the time, so I bought the dual 7". It's the same diameter as the single....is your space limit front to rear? I can get you a measurement of mine if you want.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #240
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Its the space front to rear that is the issue. The dual is about an 1" and a half longer than the single.
    I have a single with a 1" master on my 55 and the brakes are good, (very good since I put on new pads and rotors and did the proper break in procedure).

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