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Thread: 39 Ford Project

  1. #241
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Brian,
    Wondering what you have for the "proper beak in procedure". My brakes aren't stopping like I would expect.
    Thanks, Doug

  2. #242
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    The last few sets for a couple of different vehicles have been from power stop brakes. The procedure varies depending on the pads.
    Generally speaking though it is making some hard to moderate stops from 40 to 15, then from 30 to 10 mph and then driving for 5 or 10 minutes to let them cool down.
    The 1st time I did it was on my 07 Sierra and it does make a noticeable difference. You could probably just google how to bed in brake pads to get a more detailed procedure.

  3. #243
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Brian,
    Thanks! I have done similar, and not absolutely satisfied with the braking. No easy answers.
    Thanks, Doug

  4. #244
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Update

    I received my brake booster and master cylinder last Tuesday so time to get that set up. As I thought would be the case I needed to space the booster away from my mount bracket I had previously welded in place as the booster to brake pedal rod couldn't be shortened enough to bolt in on directly. Turns out I needed about 1 3/4" more room so I went with a 2" spacer and made my booster rod to brake pedal rod a bit longer to compensate.



    Spacer brackets bolted to the booster. I made these out of 1 1/2" by 2" 1/8" wall rectangular tubing by cutting off one side of the tubing to make a 2" x 1 1/4" channel and then drilling holes for the booster and mounting plate I have welded to the frame. This is the main reason I made a 2" spacer as it was much easier and more accurate to make this way than bending up a piece of flat stock.




    Another view, the notches are for the bolt heads that hold the original pedal bracket to my frame brackets.
    The booster is a 7" diameter as that is the biggest that will fit under the floor.




    The next step was to make end pieces top and bottom to add some strength and turn the whole thing into a 1 piece spacer. I made the end pieces from what I had cut off the rectangular tubing and tacked them in place with the channel brackets bolted to the booster to keep everything aligned properly.




    Here is the finished spacer which I ended up adding spacers on the top end as when I test fitted everything the booster and master ended a a bit to close to the floorboards. The spacers tip the whole assembly a bit down to gain just enough clearance.



    Spacer, booster and master cylinder bolted together ready for a test fit in the car. I didn't get a picture but I made the booster to brake pedal clevis coupler out of a piece of 5/8" od, 1/4" id dom round tubing. Just had to drill it out, tap it for 3/8 - 24 thread and file a couple of flat spots on each end to fit a 9/16" wrench.



    All bolted up and attached to the brake pedal it all works well. I did make sure I will be able to get all this in and out with the floorboards in place and marked the floor boards for the master cylinder access hole. I had made an access hole for one one of the bolts on the original pedal bracket and will need to make it slightly bigger to get at one bolt/nut on the booster and booster spacer.



    View from the other side of the car. I have one spot that the booster just clears the center section of the frame so I will eventually grind that down a bit but otherwise it is a tight fit, but it fits. The master cylinder has ports on both sides so I will decide which side to run the lines off of when I get to that point.
    So the next project is to get the floorboard access holes cut out and prep it to final weld in place.
    Brian

  5. #245
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    It's looking good Brian!

  6. #246
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    It's looking good Brian!
    Thanks Gary, Slow but sure I'm making progress!

  7. #247
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Like you, I make a lot of my brackets out of rectangular or square tubing. Early on, I even made a lot of my C4 conversion brackets that way, until I discovered laser cutting. Looking good. Looks like you may have had room for a dual 7" booster after all.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #248
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Like you, I make a lot of my brackets out of rectangular or square tubing. Early on, I even made a lot of my C4 conversion brackets that way, until I discovered laser cutting. Looking good. Looks like you may have had room for a dual 7" booster after all.
    If I had to I could make one fit by cutting out the frame member between the two holes which wouldn't have been to difficult. It is closer than it looks in the pictures though as I had to use a hammer between the 2 holes to gain enough clearance to remove and install the master cylinder. I could have made a 1 1/2" spacer also if needed. I think I will be fine with the single booster as the car had manual brakes originally so with the 6 to 1 pedal ratio and good brake pads bedded in properly the brakes should be good. If not I can make a dual booster work.

  9. #249
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Progress update

    So with the brake pedal booster and master all set up, on to prepping the floor boards for welding in place.



    After fitting up the floorboards I removed the booster and master cylinder so I did get a picture of the booster to brake pedal clevis coupler. Just cut a length of dom tubing, drilled and taped for 3/8-24 thread and filed flat spots to be able to hold it with a 9/16" wrench.



    I had marked the master cylinder access hole from underneath with a sharpie while everything was still in place. Here I laid out a more accurate hole to cut it out, but didn't make it too big at this point.



    Back in place I marked up where I needed to adjust the holes to make sure the master cover could be easily removed and to make sure I would be able to turn a wench on the top inside bolt or the booster and booster spacer.
    Also marked where I needed to drill holes to plug weld the floorboards in place.



    With the holes cut out to the proper size we are just about ready to weld it in place. Just need to trim the floorboards and the original tunnel for a tight butt weld joint at that point.



    Bolted in place at the body mount locations, screwed to the kick ups at the firewall and tacked into the original driveshaft tunnel. All that is left to do is all the plug welds, weld up the screw holes, a couple of small seams at the front of the tunnel and fully weld it up at the original tunnel.



    All welded up and ground out with the last piece to connect the firewall to the trans tunnel screwed in place. That piece needs to be fitted up better before welding in place but that I will get to later.



    Here is the covers I made for the access holes, Just made them about 7/8" bigger than the holes and put a 1" flange on them with my bead roller. First time making usable parts since I got it motorized. It worked very nice as these would have been pretty tough to do with a hand crank. The screws and nut plates came with the hardware for the Bitchin Products firewall and floorboard kit and should work well for these covers.



    Decided to use 4 screws per cover. I have the master cover all done and the smaller cover drilled and ready to weld the nut plates into the bottom side of the floorboards. I ground the head of a screw as small as I could get it to hold the nut plates in position while plug welding them in place. Still needed to be careful not to get weld on the screw and have it stuck in place as the nut plates are fairly small.



    All done and the covers screwed in place. The covers really stiffen the floorboards back up with the flanges and the 4 screws in each cover.
    So on to the next project which will be cutting out the rusty rear floorboards and making some new ones. I will be attempting to make my own from 18 gauge sheet vs buying them. Will see how that goes.
    Brian

  10. #250
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    Nice work

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