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Thread: Sacrificial Anode To Prevent Corrosion From Electrolysis In Cooling System

  1. #1
    Registered Member enigma57's Avatar
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    Sacrificial Anode To Prevent Corrosion From Electrolysis In Cooling System

    Exploring options to prevent corrosion from electrolysis in cooling system. Along with correct anti-freeze/distilled water mix and possibly an additive to minimize corrosion...... I am looking at sacrificial anodes. I understand there are both zinc and magnesium anodes available for marine engines, so am looking at these......

    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sierr...ecs-_-DY-_-PDP

    Son's 350 engine will have iron block, aluminum heads and intake manifold. My 292 inline 6 is all iron...... Will not have any aluminum parts in contact with engine coolant but I am looking into this anyway. Both will run copper/brass radiators (no aluminum radiators) but whatever is shared in this thread should certainly be helpful to those who do.

    What are y'alls experience and thoughts on this?

    Thanks,

    Harry
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    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Harry, You wrote (in part)

    "Son's 350 engine will have iron block, aluminum heads and intake manifold. My 292 inline 6 is all iron...... Will not have any aluminum parts in contact with engine coolant but I am looking into this anyway. ..."
    --------------------------------------

    Am I mis-reading or did you mis-state something? Engine coolant flows thru both heads and the intake manifold...

    PS. I bought a Z28 in the mid seventies (of course with Aluminum intake), and when I tore it down for rebuilding right after purchase, I found aluminum deterioration in the coolant flow ports... Not knowing what had been done to or used in the engine in the past, I attributed that deterioration to 'dissimilar metal' corrosion...

  3. #3
    Registered Member enigma57's Avatar
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    I believe you are correct regarding the corrosion in your Z28's cooling system, Gary. Dissimilar metals where there is electrolysis at play...... The metal most prone to corrosion becomes the defacto sacrificial anode for the other. What we will be doing is introducing a zinc piece to become that sacrificial anode and save both the aluminum and the cast-iron that is in contact with engine coolant.

    What I meant about my son's engine and mine is that he will have both aluminum and cast-iron in contact with engine coolant, but my 292 inline 6 will have only cast-iron in contact with engine coolant. So son's engine will be more at risk of corrosion than mine. But I would like to protect both.

    Best regards,

    Harry
    'G-d Bless The U.S.A.'...... Lee Greenwood......

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_5aoptI5j0

    Staff Sergeant Roy Benavidez......

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3nncd4sxaM&t=466s

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    just checked my reading, as i do periodically. it`s at .03, and it`s a small block, cast, with aluminum radiator and intake. i think the reading should be under 4.0.

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    max should be .30, just looked it up, sorry.

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    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Dave, It's early in the morning, and I'm at least half asleep... but I'm *lost* as to what reading you are measuring/referencing as being a max of 0.030?? 0.030 ? what? units?

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    you could check this in your system. volt meter, negative to battery terminal, positive in the coolant, not touching anything but coolant. max reading of .30 is good. i just stated that mine was .03 . and, bama, as you know, i watch the cooling system closely. and in my system, about 2 qt. anti-freeze, distilled water, and a bottle of water wetter for corrosion and lubricant.

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    and , enigma, don`t look into this too deep. use a corrosion fighter if ya arn`t running straight anti-freeze. just check it now and then. i do mine maybe 3 times a year. no big deal.

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    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    So you are reading the 'voltage' of the coolant relative to the negative side of the battery? I'm just guessing but I think the 'age' of your coolant probably has a large influence on that value...

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