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Thread: What can I spray over 'self etching' primer ??`

  1. #1
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    What can I spray over 'self etching' primer ??`

    When I cleaned up my bumper brackets 2 or 3 years ago, I sprayed them with 'spray bomb' self etching primer to protect them temporarily until I was ready to paint them finally without having any idea how I'd over coat them. Today I was going to spray some SPI epoxy and I thought I might paint the bumper brackets as well, but then observed that I had sprayed them lightly with the self etch primer for temporary protection. I recalled reading that SPI didn't recommend spraying their epoxy over self etch primer.

    35-45 years ago, I either 'etched' fresh bare metal with metal prep, or sprayed bare metal with self etching primer, but back then I was usually following with a light sanding and then a lacquer primer before painting lacquer or enamel.

    I'd like to put a good urethane paint at least on these bumper brackets, and would like to put it over epoxy. SPI says I should probably strip off the self etch primer first... What do you fellas say? Do I have any choice other than stripping it off? I lightly sanded a small piece today and sprayed it wtih SPI epoxy as a 'test case'... No reaction when I was spraying... but time will tell I suppose.

    Basically SPI is saying there is nothing you can spray over self etch primer that probably will work... so why do so many companies sell it?

  2. #2
    Registered Member Old Buzzard's Avatar
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    "Basically SPI is saying there is nothing you can spray over self etch primer that probably will work... so why do so many companies sell it?"
    I think they expect that the top coat will be another spray bomb paint.
    Unless I'm just going to spray bomb a part, I quit using it, for the same reasons SPI mentioned.

  3. #3
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I probably will do the same as you Old Buzzard... relegate the self etching to insignificant parts...

    I really do not want to 'strip' these bumper brackets again, so I 'might' just sand them lightly and then apply 'GM Reconditioning black'; which I used for years to match the factory original 'semi gloss' black underhood and chassis parts. It is not a two part paint; instead is basically an 'asphalt' based paint (what I heard it called one time); it thins with mineral spirits.

  4. #4
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    I've been using this SEM direct to metal paint for lots of smaller parts for years. It has the perfect black sheen, flashes in a couple minutes, and after 3 coats it's ready to touch in like 15 minutes. It's not cheap at almost $20 a can , it's tough, so easy, and I can't tell which parts I painted with that or SPI primer, plus easy touchups. I've been through like 20 cans of it, and ready to buy more.
    IMG_9162.JPG

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    You should be able to put about anything you want over that self etching primer. I would refrain from topcoating with the SPI like you mentioned. I'm sure they have a good reason for saying not to. The rattle can paint would be fine or a catalyzed automotive paint would be fine. Just give the self etch a light scuff first if it's been up there for a while.

  6. #6
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I had planned to put on Eastwood urethane chassis black (satin finish) over it... which is an excellent reproduction look to original underhood parts and chassis parts... so maybe I will do it if you think it will be OK. The SPI cautions could be just overdoing the CYA thing....?

  7. #7
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    Self etching primer is great for your rusty trailer that you're going to paint with Rustoleum or a similar non catalyzed enamel. It's for getting by - SPI is way too expensive for getting by.

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    Rick is that what you would recommend for my all steel 16 and 18 foot car trailers I built in 05 & 06 they are looking a little rough. Both are black.

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    Only if you want to keep repainting them every few years.

  10. #10
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    Awlgrip is some of the toughest paint I know of at the moment. Imron isnt much better than Nason anymore in my opinion.

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