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Thread: Sue's 59 Corvette project....

  1. #191
    Registered Member 55 Rescue Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrifiveRichard View Post
    Thanks, quite a find RD
    Surprisingly they still need quite bit of filler, and the spot-welded seams. I think a lot of cast-off production parts got sent to the parts division.
    In the meantime, keep everyone updated on your over the top Vette.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 12-05-2022 at 04:05 PM.

  2. #192
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    I bought a new GM fender for my 74 Z28 in the mid 80s it fit like a saddle on a sow. I think you are right about rejects sold as service parts.

  3. #193
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    Sounds like NOS sheet metal is a bit rough! LOL

  4. #194
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Yes, it can be.. but never will be as poor as reproduction sheet metal...

  5. #195
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    I depends on the application the best fitting replacement I ever installed was a aftermarket one for a 2005 Impala, not one shim and perfect lines. My new doors on my 55 were decent fitting also, I have seen the opposite result many times.

  6. #196
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    Finishing up some odds and ends

    Been working lately on finishing off some items that are easier accomplished with the body off the chassis. A while back, we purchased a set of billet valve/coil covers from Scotts Hot Rods & Customs, located in Knotsville, TN. They are fully machined two-part covers and are pretty nice IMO. The first piece covers the valves/rockers, and mounts the individual coils. The second part covers the coils and mates with the first part.

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    The factory valve covers needed to be removed and the coils set aside. In addition, the gasket/seal was removed and is reused on the new cover, given it's on a new motor and is rubber.

    IMG_0922.jpeg

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    The new valve cover was bolted on, using the factory bolts. Then the coils were mounted, using bolts supplied with the new covers. Then the coil covers were bolted on with new bolts.

    IMG_0931.jpeg

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    This completed the drivers side, then the passenger side was done, the "corvette" wings were re-installed, and done for now.

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    As seems typical, there is one last item to finish up later. The valve cover is tapped for a 1/4" pipe fitting that is part of the PCV system and vents the head/valley. It requires a 90 degree fitting (#6 AN/1/4"pipe) that has to be ordered. This exits the new covers at the seam/top. The PCV lines have yet to be run.

  7. #197
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    That change (to hide the coil paks) looks pretty good Richard, but it would look even better if they had mimic'ed the '59 Corvette Valve Cover with their top coil pak cover...

    Isn't it something the expense/trouble we go to in trying to hide the ugly from LS engines? the plastic covers I bought a few years ago was a bit over $120? ...and that two-part machine aluminum one looks VERY expensive... and I still think having the coil paks buried inside all that metal (even though it's aluminum) could tend to cause overheating of the coil paks??

    Did you get the high build sanded on the body so you could spray a final 'wet sandable' prime coat yesterday?t

  8. #198
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    and I still think having the coil paks buried inside all that metal (even though it's aluminum) could tend to cause overheating of the coil paks??
    I'm pretty sure a typical single coil takes around a 20A fuse which would be a maximum of 260W or so. Divide that by 8 cylinders for individual coils and you get around 30W per coil which is not very much power.
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  9. #199
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    I'm pretty sure a typical single coil takes around a 20A fuse which would be a maximum of 260W or so. Divide that by 8 cylinders for individual coils and you get around 30W per coil which is not very much power.
    I agree that a single coil doesn't generate much heat, BUT... take 8 of them and put them inside a closed up metal container, and put that container on top of a heat generating engine and I'd be afraid the heat would build up INSIDE the valve (coil) cover with not fresh air to take it away. It would be similar to installing eight 30W bulbs inside those covers on an operating engine... IMO ... it needs a fresh air source to help take the hot air away and prevent heat buildup inside those covers.

    PS. I don't really believe the 30 watts needed per coil will be expended as heat from the coil, since the majority of the energy is used for the injector to 'squirt fuel', but there will be 'some' residual heat from each pulse of the coil.. I haven't been able to ascertain an precise number for that as yet, but still believe without an 'air source' heat buildup can become a problem.
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 12-14-2022 at 07:20 PM.

  10. #200
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    I’m not concerned with coils getting too hot. If we were running “road Atlanta” in the heat, we’ll maybe. This is a pleasure/road car at best, and the coil covers are vented at the coil wire holes and the control wire holes. The coils will be close to engine temperature. Let’s talk about something else.

    I feel the same way about this continuing discussion on old school engines and LS/LT. I like old school for what they are/were. If the car is a restoration all the way, then great go old school. If the car is a restomod, go LS/LT. I like the LS/LT engines for what they are, and they are head and shoulders better than the best old ones: typically they idle well, they have better gas mileage, don’t leak oil, the don’t need new plugs every few months, they don’t have a carb or choke to be adjusted often, and they make great power.

    let’s stop the BS.

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