Since the Corvette front end and fenders are not removable, A list was made of items that would be easier to do without the body mounted. The first item was to swap out the engine oil pan. The gen v LT1 factory oil pan protrudes below the front crossmember about 3". It is the lowest point on the chassis, so it would be the first thing hit by any road hazard that would miss the crossmember. Holley makes a pan for the motor that solves this issue. The factory pan bolts were removed, and it became clear the motor needed to be raised about 1" to clear the front of the motor. The old gasket material was removed from the block and the new Permatex #82194 high torque "gasket maker" was applied. Turns out the Holley pan is a little shallower up front, so the motor didn't need to be raised to put the pan in place. The pan bolts were tighten until the gasket material came out of the seam, then waited an hour, then torqued the bolts.
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The chassis is now ready for the body.
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The next item was running the brake lines on the chassis and providing for connection in the engine bay later..The rear line was run between the two driver side frame rails and terminated in the front with a bracket and -4AN fittings. The connecting lines to the master cylinder will be run after the body is mounted and the master cylinder is in place.
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The next item was the fuel line. The gen v motors have a single line, with no return to the tank. It has a separate regulator and pressure sensor that manages fuel pressure. A braided flexable fuel line had been provided with the chassis. I had previously installed this line and connected it to the motor. After reading the problems that Laszlo had with the CPE fuel line. I decided to rework the fuel line, since I didn't know whether it was a CPE line or a PTFE line. I also wasn't really satisfied with the routing. The flexible line would only reach to the middle of the motor, just above the bellhousing. This would be extremely difficult to disconnect later if I needed to. The new 3/8" line has three pieces: a hard line connected to the fuel rails and run behind and then to the side of the motor, a flexible PTFE line, and a hard line run between the passenger frame rails going back to the fuel tank area. After the fuel tank is installed, an additional hard line will make the final connection.
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The last major item was the battery cables. The battery will be located in the trunk. Battery cables are run along the inner frame rail and retained by Delrin-type brackets made on the Bridgeport mill. This material maintains its dimensions well and is an insulator. A heat insulator will cover the cables near the exhaust.
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Last edited by TrifiveRichard; 03-17-2023 at 02:06 PM.
Finished cutting and buffing the door and body jambs, engine bay, deck area, hood trunk and deck lid undersides. Following are pictures of some of the items.
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Having finished buffing the pieces and parts, the body was bolted down on the frame yesterday, hopefully for the final time. Next will be putting on the hinges and bolting on the panels and doors.
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Final item completed was modifying the upper door hinges to alllow wires for the power windows and power door locks. A groove was milled in the hinges and a sheetmetal cover welded over the groove for the wires. This way a separate wire channel isn't needed in the door jambs.
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That looks good Richard, but I wonder why I'm seeing guys run the ground cable from the battery to the front of the car. I put a ground cable from the battery to the frame, then from the engine to the frame. I also ran a smaller cable to the body on both ends. The frame is every bit as good of a conductor as the battery cable is, you just need good ground connections at both ends.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Love that color, and the engine looks awesome in there.
Pretty sure those hinges are identical to a tri5. Did you use the ones I sold you on a different project? Also I wonder why you plan to use them for the top hinges instead of the bottom ones. I put mine on bottom so the wires went straight up, that way they twist instead of bend. Maybe not a big deal, but I was curious how you made that decision.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
The ones I got from you, Laszlo, are going on a 55 210 sedan. I believe the hinges on the corvette are a bit narrower than the tri five, and there really isn’t room to grove the top for wires, as I recall you did. I also haven’t decided yet whether to exit wires up or toward the front. I’m going to mount them soon, so I’ll figure it out.
update: you’re right, Laszlo, the hinges are the same as tri-five. I compared them today.
Last edited by TrifiveRichard; 03-17-2023 at 02:00 PM. Reason: Correction
Nice work.
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Hi Richard,
What he said! The understated black underhood components make it look like an engineered from the factory Corvette build - very clean look!
Regards, Doug
Thanks guys, hopefully, the body will be painted with in 2 weeks. Spent the day mounting hinges, still some to go.
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