Great job! I can't seem to put anything together without scratching something.
Great job! I can't seem to put anything together without scratching something.
Appreciate your interest and comments, Troy. I just keep plugging along and don’t get in too big of a rush. Eventually, it all gets done.Originally Posted by Troy
thanks, RD. I try to minimize the scratches, I use quite a bit of tape assembling things (just ask Gary). The pictures don’t show a lot of it, since I remove the tape when finished.
Richard's motto is> If a little tape is good, then a LOT of tape is great!
I accuse him to promoting 3M tape to boost this 'tape stock value'..
You guys missed a very good car show in Athens today with a lot of very unique vehicles... although I didn't hear the numbers it must have been in the 500 range...
Gary
Hi Richard,
Bling! Very nice!
And I like how you guys have set up the elegant dining table with the white tablecloth so you can enjoy a meal while gazing at the progress you are making on the Vette!
Regards, Doug
I was wondering how Richard got all taht sanding/buffing job finished so quickly.. and THEN on a second viewing, I saw this 'buffing ghost' in the background of one of his photos... explains it all~~
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Wow, you two have way too much time on your hands! Lol
It's been a while since I've updated the Corvette's build progress, but a little progress has been made, mostly under the hood. Having said that, we did get the cove spears in place after making new pin doublers for the inside of the body. The spears are rechromed originals. They were in good shape, although one had a forward pin missing. This one was installed with a little RTV at the front, and it worked out fine.
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Most recent activity has been focused on hooking items up under the hood, including installing the radiator/condenser, the cold air tube/filter box, the radiator hoses, a new oil fill can, and a new PCV can. The aluminum radiator, fan shroud, and condenser were painted black. The coils were painted SPI epoxy only, and the remainder was painted with the epoxy and satin black. These were assembled, mounted, and the front air dams put in place.
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The radiator engine, fill and steam vent hoses were next. The top engine radiator hose has a T-tube in place. The T connects to the fill/surge tank. The hose that came with the crate motor worked here, just splicing the T-tube in place. The bottom engine radiator hose connects directly, and came from O'Reilly's, matching a template brought to the store. The 1" fill/surge tank hose is a combination of one from the motor and a run of heater hose. Again, the crate motor hose was cut, splicing the heater hose in place. At the splices, a short aluminum tube was inserted into the ends, and Gates power grips were used to seal the seam, using a heat gun. At this point, the engine steam vent was plumbed. The engine port is behind the top radiator hose tube. This, as well as a port at the top driver side of the cross flow radiator, was plumbed to the open port in the fill/surge tank. This open port is the highest point in the system, so any trapped air will eventually make it there.
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After this, the cold air tube and filter box were installed. The fan should still needs to be trimmed at the top, where the 90 degree rubber tube is located.
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This update is broken into 2 posts, given I'm not sure how many pictures 1 post can take.
When we decided to change out the valve/coil covers, along with it came some other modifications (just like Gary says! LOL)
First, the oil fill cap that exited the valve cover through the coil cover was gone. The aftermarket valve covers have a threaded fitting for filling the engine oil. Only problem is the coil cover needs to be removed to get at it: not real handy. Turns out that the oil pan (factory and Holley) have a threaded boss at the top, center of the passenger side. The factory motor uses this for an oil return from the PCV can. As an alternative, an oil fill can was made, mounted at the front of the passenger head, and drains into the pan boss. A tee was plumbed allowing both the oil fill line and the PCV drain line to connect. Oil check valves were used in both lines. The first picture is the oil can prior to welding and painting. I didn't take a picture of the finished can, but it is visible behind the a/c compressor and next to the passenger head in the second picture. The last picture shows the tee connection at the motor pan.
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Second, I had previously mounted the factory PCV can on the passenger firewall, with part of it behind the motor. Turns out, the aftermarket valve covers come straight up in the back and the factory PCV can can't fit in the remaining space. So, a new PCV can was made. To ensure there were no surprises, the factory PCV can was cut apart. The new can was made similar to the factory can inside, and the factory fill ports were used, panel-bonding to the new can. The first picture is the factory can with the mount and cover previously made for it.
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The can still needs to be pressure tested, painted, and the line connecting the PCV can and the oil pan port needs to be made.
Good update Richard. Looking good...
I had a Dentist appt this morning; I thought about running over the mountain to your shop after, but it was lunchtime and I was hungry...My young helper is coming again tomorrow to assist me in 'recovering' some of my cars..
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