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Thread: Sue's 59 Corvette project....

  1. #51
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    The weather cooperated

    The weather was warm today, probably 70 degrees or so, and we were able to epoxy paint. All the fiberglass, steel, and aluminum parts previously prepped were hung in the paint booth today and sprayed. It was a little crowded in the booth, with 44 parts, but it worked. I believe we had a dozen fiberglass parts and 32 steel or aluminum small parts.

    It was good to get all in epoxy, since I don't expect the weather to cooperate much longer this season. Hopefully, we will have one more warm day and we can get the fiberglass parts in high build primer and the steel/aluminum parts painted final satin black. If we can do this shortly, within 7 days, the epoxy doesn't need to be scotch brite sanded. That obviously saves a fair amount of repeated effort/time.

    After this, we will be focusing on continuing to block the body and other fiberglass parts, as well as fiberglassing some small problem areas.

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  2. #52
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Hopefully the weather will cooperate for a while longer so the primer can be completed... and the metal parts painted with semi-gloss. Richard, tell everyone what you use to spray the underside and hidden metal parts as I'm not sure I remember correctly, but I do love the gloss level achieved.

  3. #53
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    Gary’s pulling my leg, but ok I’ll bite. For a body-off, nut & bolt restomod build, I tend to not leave steel unpainted, regardless whether it is visible or not. I don’t care to have it surface rust. Aluminum, same way, I don’t want it to oxidize either, although some aluminum I will leave alone, or clear coat, if I want the contrast.

    I use Eastwood’s satin black for most metal parts. I’ve used it for years, it’s catalyzed, easy to apply, has a nominal 60% gloss, and it lasts. The other thing I tend to do is spray the underbody and associated parts the same satin black. I really don’t want the underbody to standout, I want it to fade to the background.

    What do the rest of you guys do? I know Gary likes things the way the factory left them.

  4. #54
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Actually I wasn't pulling your leg, Richard.. I really like the gloss/sheen on your black semi-gloss parts and the fact you're using an activated paint, but I wasn't sure I could say exactly what you use. And I'm curious what others here use for the black semi-gloss parts??

    No, I'm not a fan of a black underpan. On an original restoration, I prefer to see 'simulated' red oxide primer (but done with a catalyzed urethane paint). On a 'custom car', I like seeing strong contrast between underbody and the chassis...

  5. #55
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    Eastwood's satin black

    Here is the info on the paint, with part numbers on the cans, in case others care to try it out. The console is the one Gary and I modified for the 56 chevy, adding 9" to the center section and removing 7" from the rear. The paint is Eastwood's satin black, and it’s about a 60% gloss.

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    Last edited by TrifiveRichard; 12-05-2021 at 07:03 AM.

  6. #56
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    The 'reason' I like it so much, is that IMO the 'gloss' level is just about perfect for the underhood black parts (inner fenders, radiator support, etc) for a trifive restoration (and for many other years of GM cars up thru the mid-70's at least), AND it's a catalyzed urethane for toughness.

  7. #57
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Richard,
    Thanks for posting the specifics on the satin paint you are using.
    Regards, Doug

  8. #58
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    Hey Doug. It does have a nice finish, hopefully others will find it useful.

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