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Thread: Sue's 59 Corvette project....

  1. #181
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    SPI epoxy primer is awesome! I have got many compliments of the "paint job" on my car, and then having to confess it's just primer. Just ordered another quart today for my NOS 55 front fenders I'm going to use and match the rest of the car a bit.IMG_9768.JPG

  2. #182
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    Yes, the SPI primer goes on well and has a nice finish, as well as being UV resistant. It provides a good base, although it’s fairly thin. I like the Eastwood satin black over it.

  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    good progress. Its all in the prep. You get that right and the final spray of color will come out gorgeous.
    yes, prep is the key, I agree Paul. Especially with old fiberglass, I’ve never see so many cracks! Lol

  4. #184
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrifiveRichard View Post
    Yes, the SPI primer goes on well and has a nice finish, as well as being UV resistant. It provides a good base, although it’s fairly thin. I like the Eastwood satin black over it.
    I have had some problems with SPI epoxy and for some reason it tends to fisheye for me. I know there's a 30 minute induction period and I do that. If I spray it on too thick it fisheyes so I have to spray lighter coats. I really like the way it sands though.

    My painter has been doing high-end cars for decades and I wish I'd known him when I prepped my Nomad. He's painted old Maseratis and Ferraris and when he painted my car he had a GM concept car in his shop for a GM executive. He uses ONE product called Clausen All-You-Need (literally). It's a waterproof, zinc-enriched polyester high build primer. He does the metalwork and filling, then puts heavy coats of AYN on it and blocks it. If he hits bare metal it's no problem, he just adds another coat. Once he gets it all smooth, he shoots sealer and paint. That's it. He said in all the years he's used it he's never had a problem. It sure beats the epoxy/high build/urethane primer bullshit that I did. Every time I accidentally went to bare metal I sprayed epoxy again....maybe I was too anal, but it was a pain in the ass. I think SPI epoxy could be used the same way but it doesn't build as much so it would take more coats. In fact, I used it that way on some of my parts that had small imperfections. SPI is nice stuff and I'll likely use it again.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #185
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    Haven't tried it, but SPI makes a high-build primer and lots of other stuff I will try someday.

  6. #186
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    The SPI epoxy went on the bare fiberglass with no fish eyes. This last coat of epoxy on top of the polyester primer did fish eye a little. I’m guessing the smooth surface made the difference. We used the Evercoat hi build polyester primer. It builds and sands well. It does make a mess of the paint booth, though. I had to clean the walls and floor, as well as replace the exhaust filters. It’s thick and we used a 2.5 mm tip, so we had quite a bit of overspray.

  7. #187
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    New instrument cluster bezel

    We are not using the factory instrument cluster bezel. We are using a fiberglass one that the interior shop fabricates for the 58 and on C1 corvettes. It removes the tach from in front of the speedo (red bezel below), making room for a tilt steering column with the 15 inch steering wheel (black bezel below).

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    The interior shop has worked with Dakota Digital to make gauges for the bezel. They incorporate the speedo and tack into the top area, and maintain the individual gauges in stock location. The fiberglass holes for the individual gauges are not cut out in the supplied bezel. So, that was the first job, both cutting out the holes, fitting the gauge pairs, and securing the gauge pairs. The gauges are 2 1/16" in diameter, so a 2" hole saw was used, then trimmed from there. In addition to the holes, the back side needed to be clearanced and leveled for the gauges to seat. Then, standoffs were made and epoxied in place to hold the gauges down. We have not received the speedo/tack chrome ring yet, so that will be mounted later. In the picture below, it's just set in place.

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    The next thing we had to do is remove a block off panel from the bezel. It can be seen in the picture above, lower left below the Individual gauge line. The interior shop removed the factory hood hold downs and t-handle. They fabricated a different arrangement, using an electric release/button, thus clearing the area where the t-handle was. The block off was for aesthetics, blocking the view in that area under the dash. We are still using the factory hood release mechanisms and t-handle, so we need the area open. The block off panel was cut off and the area finished off similar to the factory bezel. There's still a little finish work left, but close enough for now.

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    That completes the current bezel modifications. We still have to fit and mount the speedo/tach, as well as fit and modify the bezel for the switches.

  8. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    SPI epoxy primer is awesome! I have got many compliments of the "paint job" on my car, and then having to confess it's just primer. Just ordered another quart today for my NOS 55 front fenders I'm going to use and match the rest of the car a bit.IMG_9768.JPG
    Nice looking fenders RD. Where’d you pick up NOS fenders?

  9. #189
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    They popped up in a local Craigslist ad about 30 miles away for $2000. The guy bought them in 1970 at $125 ea. for his Nomad but never used them. They were stored in his house in the original boxes. they are at the body shop right now getting sprayed with SPI.
    Your Corvette is coming together nicely!
    IMG_9782.jpg
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 12-05-2022 at 07:19 AM.

  10. #190
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    Thanks, quite a find RD

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