You can put me down all you want as to how smart you are and how dumb you think I am. All I did was follow the stupid instructions and understand how it works. The master and TO bearing both operate well within the maximum travel ranges. The master never bottoms out on the internal stop, and the bearing which doesn't use any spring return is setup with a max 1/16in clearance, so it doesn't bottom in the return position. In operation the bearing just floats on the clutch fingers with zero clearance and no pressure. I went with the recommended 3/4 master, and it would have been fine, but I wanted a little less travel so I could keep my heel planted on the floor which makes it much easier for modulating initial engagement, so I tried a bigger recommended 7/8 cylinder which I determined by observation instead of just math which sometimes is important but doesn't always work out that way in the real world, until you try it. Plus, the travel specs are in the instructions.
And how can you calculate the friction added by your pivot points? Also, unless your slave cylinder has a spring return it should be setup so the slave doesn't bottom out in the return position and then your bearing will float on the fingers with no pre-load which is the way most hydraulic clutch setups operate and self-adjust for clutch wear.
I have a C5 Corvette and have learned a lot from dealing with that hydraulic setup and there was nothing you could calculate to deal with their issues, which you are finding out. A hydraulic TO bearing is still the best way to go. I didn't have t worry about any of it by installing an auto in my 55 which was the best choice for that car. A 4-speed computer-controlled auto transmission would have been a huge hit back in 1955.
IMG_3299.jpg